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Whoa!
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Looks pretty normal. Remember, the light on that ultra slow motion video is low and the camera sees more than the naked eye.
The video stops before you can tell if there's a charge in the barrel. But it may be that some of what you are seeing near the end of the video is part of the main powder charge blowing out of the touch hole. |
Did you notice the frizzen "bounce back"...that's what causes prematurely broken flints...
BPS |
What surprised me was the small amount of sparks from the flint/frizzen. Unless the slow motion made it seem that way?
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I was surprised how far back the flash moved towards the shooter's face. And how that initial little spark grows in the pan. Very cool. Thanks for posting that.
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A lot of sparks headed for his face too. I wish the video was longer.
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That dude kept his eyes open a pretty long time.
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I've never shot a flintlock. I can see why they say it takes awhile to get used to the flash.
I'm dying to buy one. I have a GPR LH flint on hold, but I can't seem to pull the plug and get it. I think it would be a blast to hunt deer with it in deep timber. |
Well, we're going to find out if I like a flintlock. I ordered the GPR. I'll make it my deer rifle.
I have some Goex 2F and 4F coming. Some flints from TOW, and an RMC vent liner. Anything else I can do to speed up and make the lock reliable? I'm a flintlock noob, so all the help is appreciated. |
Looks pretty normal to me. Maybe a bit bigger. Probably had a full pan of powder (more then he needed). Was that really slow motion? Seems like that's how long it takes my flinter to go off!!!
Just kidding. That was a good shower of sparks into the pan. |
Don't seem to be much help here.
You wouldn't ignore a noob would you? Help! I guess I can figure it out. :confused: |
traditions kentucky. That amount of poor spark is pretty typical. I had to heat mine up red hot then i quinched it in motor oil. Water is supposed to be better for that part though.
Mine fires super fast now that i got it sparking good and use good flints. It took me a while though to figure out just the right amount of charge in the prime pan. |
I guess we all figured you were beyond help anyway Muley. :s2:
You don't have the gun yet, so you really don't know if you need to do anything for the lock. The lock on my GPR was fast and reliable from the factory. You did the best thing you could for ignition of the charge when you ordered that RMC liner. The Lyman liners leave something to be desired. As a minimum their flash hole usually needs to be enlarged. There are many things that can be done to tune a flintlock, from deburring all of the internals to making adjustments to the frizzen/frizzen spring relationship. Let's see what you get and work from there. In the meantime, you may want to get a pan primer. They are not absolutely necessary, but handy. |
rmc liner sucked in my GPR, slowed down the ignition big time. Didn't do much for my kentucky either but i think that was before i rehardened the frizzen.
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Originally Posted by Semisane
(Post 3912773)
I guess we all figured you were beyond help anyway Muley. :s2:
You don't have the gun yet, so you really don't know if you need to do anything for the lock. The lock on my GPR was fast and reliable from the factory. You did the best thing you could for ignition of the charge when you ordered that RMC liner. The Lyman liners leave something to be desired. As a minimum their flash hole usually needs to be enlarged. There are many things that can be done to tune a flintlock, from deburring all of the internals to making adjustments to the frizzen/frizzen spring relationship. Let's see what you get and work from there. In the meantime, you may want to get a pan primer. They are not absolutely necessary, but handy. Wasn't there something about heat treating the frizzen, or someone making a better one? I seem to remember using a TC hammer too, or what do you call it when it's a flint? Jon...stop being a party pooper. You probably had BH 209 in the pan. |
rmc liner sucked in my GPR, slowed down the ignition big time. |
The "hammer" on a flintlock is called a C0CK. (I shall refain from further comment, given your relationship with MD) The frizzen will likely be just fine.
Some people have replaced the Lyman C0CK and their early model TC C0CK with the TC redesigned one to improve the angle at which the flint strikes the frizzen. They claim better spark and longer flint life. I haven't done that, so can't recommend for or against it. |
I actually wrote cock first, but I was sure the forum filter would kill it, and I wasn't real sure anyway.
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If everything is working right. Will it be as fast as a caplock?
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Originally Posted by Muley Hunter
(Post 3912782)
If everything is working right. Will it be as fast as a caplock?
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I guess it will be something to works towards getting.
Might have to go to a better lock. |
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