Tried new crushrib sabots.
 

So I tried the new Blk crush-rib Sabot w/ some Barnes T-EZ bullets today... WOW!
My Knight Mountaineer liked neither the TMZ or T-EZ pre-packaged combos. After I replaced Barnes sabots with the H15045BR, my groups immediately came together. I went from 8"-11" groups down to 3"-4" at 150 yds. I really wanted to stick to Barnes solid copper bullets because of their excellent weight retention and razor sharp petals. They have really made a diiference in a couple of bull elk I've taken. Damn the Knight Mountaineer is one picky rifle.
If any BP shooters simply can't bring their groups in with their favorite bullet, I'd highly recommend trying these new sabots.:happy0001:

you may what to try some harvester shot black sabots none rib or some mmp sabots and see what that will do plus you may have to shoot it some more to brake in the coating

This relates to the bore diameter, That is why they make different thickness of petals on the sabots offered. The sabot called crush rib are generally for very tight bores while Knights as a rule of thumb [I have heard of an exception ] have the larger or what we call a loose bore. All the knights I have had shoot best with the MMP 12.

In both of my Mountaineers the black crush rib would be to loose. The MMP HPH-24 fits the best and shoots the best. With any .452 bullet that i shoot...

Them crush rib sabot work good in my Mountaineer.











Bottom target punched at 200 yard. Same load for all three target, Crush Rib Sabot, 300g Deep Curl, 120g BH209, W209 primer.

ronlaughlin

When using the Crush Rib in the Mountaineer I loose about 100fps velocity as compared to the 24 and I feel my accuracy is also better with the 24's.

The barrel is just not tight enough to fully compress a 'Crush Rib' - in fact none of my Knights are tight enough.

Especially shooting BH

Here is a 200 yard target shot from a Mountaineer with HPH-24's and 250 grain Lehighs.



But, Ron my world has always been different than yours.

The Barnes TMZ did not group well in my ProHunter until I went to the yellow cr but it does have a tight bore..

TC bores are characteristically tighter the GM barrels, especially the newer TC bores.

I believe the Yelow CR built for Barnes is the same as the Regular Harvester Black CR.

Their newer CR is a red one but it is built for larger bores,

sabotloader

Wow! Wow! That is some very nice shooting with them HPH. You should post more of your target, after i post mine; maybe i wouldn't be so prideful.

Myself, i was very surprised how tight the Mountaineer barrel is.

Nice shooting!

Ron, to be honest I can not take credit for that target. it was shot in Tennessee by a Knight gun smith - testing the new Bloodlines and the rifle's accuracy.

And also still being honest... i am not a fan of target accuracy - i much prefer shooting a hunting type targets at all ranges like the clay birds you so often see me post.

Here is a target shot with MMP HPH-.458-50 cal sabots shooting a new Mountaineer out of the box... My hundered yard group was going along swimmingly until I pulled the last shot ever so slightly... and that was with thrown volume charges - thrown on site.



This 75 yard target is not to bad with the 52 Cal Knight either, well the .458-275 grain bullets anyway...

More nice shooting!!

The loads shot through the Mountaineer haven't been clocked yet, but they do seem to fly like the cds dial say they should. The cds dial was marked for 300g Deep Curl with a muzzle velocity of 1925 fps. The targets posted earlier in this thread were all 3 shot using the same dial established at 300 yard at the 3 mark. Then the 100 yard target was shot after twisting the dial to 1. The 200 yard target was shot the next day with the dial twisted to 2. The bullets pretty much have the elevation at the them ranges they are supposed to have. It could be at the 100 yard target, bullets are hitting lower than the dial say they should. It may be the actual bullets from the Mountaineer, are leaving the barrel faster than 1925 fps.

It is possible the hph-24 sabot would result in a higher mv than 1925 fps plus; i don't know. The strong 1925 fps provided by the crush rib, and the accuracy provided by the crush rib, seem OK.

These were actually Harvester yellow cr. I shoot the Harvester black cr with the TEZ.

Although I haven't tried MMP sabots yet, I have found that the Harvester CR sabot seem to be very consistant from load to load. Some other sabots that I've used (like the ones that come with the Shock Waves) I noted that some load easily and others really tight and a some somewhere in the middle. Now, I only use them out of my GM sidelock barrels and my old Knight inline.

I'll be darned... shows you how much I use Harvester anymore. I did not even know they made the Yellow CR, and to accept a boat tail to boot.

Good one for the memory banks..

They should probably shoot very well from a tight TC bore... It may over time loosen as most of mine have. Right now from the Omega and the Triumph i am able to load the regular harvester of HPH-24. When I forst got the Triumph it was really tigh trying to get a CR or HPH-3p-EZ load down. A little work with JB's solved that problem though.

will try MMP 24 soon
 

So Ron and Sabotloader, I wrote in last week re: trying CR sabots & improved accuracy w/ my new Mountaineer. Since I read your reply to my post, I have ordered some MMP 24 to try. Any other advice you guys could sling is greatly appreciated.
My load is: 3) 50 gr. T7 pellets, Win T7 primers and 250 gr. Barnes TEZ bullets.
When I began using CR sabots 2-weeks ago, I immediately noticed that I had to raise the elev. in my scope 6 clicks. This certainly validates the loss of pressure you guys mention.
Stay tuned... I'll post my results
THX jimsmokepole.

can anyone tell me where i can get 209 conversion kit for a navy arms country boy 50. cal

This is interesting,since the blue sabot supplied with the TEZ is a MMP-24 is it not>just colored blue for Barnes, instead of black.

The black cr for flat based and the yellow cr for boattails do shoot good out of tight bores. A tight bore loosening over time is a good tip to be aware of. Thanks for that tidbit. I will have to remember to check that if my accuracy ever starts to wander down the road.