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Originally Posted by corey012778
(Post 3885936)
bp, jb still be around. look at all the older muzzleloaders out there that would need a little tlc now and then ;)
Buy that 45 Cal ACCURA with a SS Bergara Barrel and You'll see what I mean. (BP) |
saving for it. still going to be a few months. i do have an cabela's visa and an bill me later account. but I have an filling those are going to be used for other things. I won't kill an card on anything big unless I can pay it off fast. learned that the hard way
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How the Bergara Barrels are made. Click on the Pic I downloaded then click on it again to Blow it up Bigger.
(BP) |
Don't believe in barrel break in for any rifle. Three of my centerfire rifles got new barrels this year. Those barrels got cleaned and then fired at the range. After the first range session they were cleaned again. Those guns turn in < .75" three shot groups at 100 meters.
The Bergara barrels are very smooth. The cheap CVA non-Bergara barrels are smooth too. TC is famous for sending out rifles with rough barrels: They are accurate but hard to load. i work them over using jeweler's rouge. |
Falcon - You're missing the point on breaking in a barrel. The breaking in removes the fine burrs or other imperfections in the bore. Some bore are worse than others. The breaking in does not make a barrel shoot better (immediately). Barrel break in removes the barrel imperfections which can collect and hold fouling. It is the fouling that ruins accuracy. Breaking in allows you to clean the barrel better keeping it shooting good.
Breaking in will not make a lousy barrel shoot good no matter what. |
i can undertstand hand lapping a rough barrel or smoothing it out using bore paste or jewelers rouge. i refuse to grasp the concept of ritual barrel break in. Fouling will accumulate in any centerfire rifle barrel, broke in or not. A few of my rifles like the barrel almost totally free of copper fouling. Three of them require some fouling for peak accuracy. The biggest culprit in barrel fouling is monolithic copper bullets.
For years i fired between 15,000 and 30,000 centerfire rifle rounds every year: This year it was about 10,000 rounds. Among the barrels bought new this year is a Shilen barrel in .22 Cheetah MK 1. The bore of that barrel was hand lapped at the factory. It will have a service life of about 700 rounds; any ritual break in would reduce that barrels life. Nothing is gained by "breaking in" a hand lapped or hammer forged barrel; it's smooth as man can make it. Its not going to accumulate fouling at a fast rate unless monolithic copper bullets are used. i'm a fan of Gale McMillan, a prize winning benchrest shooter and barrel maker. McMillan calls barrel break in a myth. He goes further: Another tidbit to consider--take a 300 Win Mag that has a life expectancy of 1000 rounds. Use 10% of it up with your break-in procedure. For every 10 barrels the barrel-maker makes he has to make one more just to take care of the break-in. No wonder barrel-makers like to see this. Now when you flame me on this please [explain] what you think is happening to the inside of your barrel during the break in that is helping you. |
I have never broke in a barrel with any kind of special procedures. I just shoot them and the more I shoot them the better they get and just keep it clean and protected in between shooting them.
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I've never seen the point in breaking in barrels either. I've had some accuracy issues with new muzzys, but they were fixed by either free-floating the barrel and/or glass-bedding the action. From what I've seen, the barrel was not the culprit. I own CVA's and a Knight, and none of them required a barrel "breaking in" to shoot well. For example, my Knight shot a 1/2" 3 shot group at 50 yards (I know, not 100) with shots 4,5,and 6 out of a NIB rifle.
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Originally Posted by Kirch
(Post 3885882)
I just picked up a NEW CVA Accura V2 and am wondering what everyone is using to break in their new steel? I've heard bore butter seasons the barrel. Is "seasoning or break in" required on a bergarra barrel? if so what do you guys do and how many rounds etc???
I'd get some jb bore paste and run only 60 passes, changing the Snug fitting patch every 20 strokes. Leave your breech plug installed and do this all from the muzzle. A note, take the cotton from a Q tip and plug the breech plugs primer hole. I learned this after my first time with jb bore paste. The paste will squeeze into the BP and squirt all over in the frame LOL. After that you can clean the jb paste out of the barrel with birchwood casey gun scrubber. After bore is clean, follow up with a light oil like birchwood casey barricade, Rig #2 or any other good brand of oil. Stay away from bore butter style lubes. I usually shoot mine 10 times with Blackhorn209 and then fully clean it. After that its all shooting and cleaning later on at the end of the day when im finished shooting. If you're going to be shooting Triple 7, Pyrodex, American pioneer, Swab the bore clean after each shot. |
Originally Posted by MountainDevil54
(Post 3886206)
Stay away from bore crap...errr Butter.
I'd get some jb bore paste and run only 60 passes, changing the Snug fitting patch every 20 strokes. Leave your breech plug installed and do this all from the muzzle. A note, take the cotton from a Q tip and plug the breech plugs primer hole. I learned this after my first time with jb bore paste. The paste will squeeze into the BP and squirt all over in the frame LOL. After that you can clean the jb paste out of the barrel with birchwood casey gun scrubber. After bore is clean, follow up with a light oil like birchwood casey barricade, Rig #2 or any other good brand of oil. Stay away from bore butter style lubes. I usually shoot mine 10 times with Blackhorn209 and then fully clean it. After that its all shooting and cleaning later on at the end of the day when im finished shooting. If you're going to be shooting Triple 7, Pyrodex, American pioneer, Swab the bore clean after each shot. (BP) |
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