drop at 200yds
 

Shooting a TC prohunter with 2 white hots and a 250gn shockwave. If dead on at 100 what kind of drop at 200. My crony said it's 1900fps.

150yd zero would be better for 200yds.

14.3 inches

Hell a 200yd. Zero, would be better.... but not what the op asked...

Forgive me but my understanding of B/P rifles is that the bullet would non-effective at 200 yds. I have been told that you could caught it in your hand at that range.

Thanks guys

guy I work with shot one he ranged at 200 last year went thriugh him. I dont think you want to try and catch it

I would not try that trick!!! I have dropped deer in there tracks at 180+.... with a 250 gr. hornady and 110 gr. BH209

According to my charts, With a muzzle velocity of 2000 fps. at 200 yds. the bullet should still have 1065 ft. lbs of energy... and 750ft. lbs. at 300yds... plenty to kill a whitetail...

dont tell the dead deer that , especially the the one that was shot at 223 yards had a complete pass through and killed the second deer standing behind it. And especially don't tell the buck that I killed at 234 yards. Although i have to admit he ran 40 yards before he realized he was dead

That bullet should still be super sonic at 200 yards?? It would be a pretty stupid thing to put your hand out and try to catch it. You would come back with a hand that has a pass through hole in it!!

For velocity of around 1800 to 1900 fps the easiest way is to put your drop into terms of 100 yardes. That is why I like my new CDS dial for my Knight LRH.

Basically for a 200 yard zero you will need to be 6" high at 100 yards. And for a 150 yard zero you need to be 3" high at 100 yards.

Buy a good scope that you can trust the turrets and use those turrets. Tom.

No it wouldn't. It would be too high at shorter distances. A 150 yd is a good compromise.

I was trying to help. What were you doing?

In order to know the drop at 200 yds with the bullet your using, you need to shoot it at that distance and see for yourself. if you don't want to bother with holdover on a conventional scope, there are some great BDC scopes on the market for muzzleloaders.

The chart shows the speed of the bullet at 200 yard to be 1306 feet per second.

At this speed the bullet would travel 4,701,600 feet in 3600 seconds, which is an hour. There are 5280 feet in a mile, so divide 4,701,600 feet by 5280 feet, and one then realizes that the bullet is traveling at 890 miles per hour.

Do you wish to catch that bullet traveling 890 mile/hr in your hand?

Just dissagreeing with you once again, beings the op is from NY, I am willing to bet the op's majority of shots will be 100 or less with an occassinal long shot.... with the drop is just 12-14" it would be better to learn your hold over than to aim low on the majority of your shots. Dead zero at 100.....4-6" at 150 and 12-14 at 200yds. Just my opinion and has served me well for years...

Oh by the way that is what he asked for (the drop) not should he zero at 150... so what was you doing??

But here we go again, :sign0018:

I was trying to change his mind about a 100yd zero. A 14" hold over is too much. With a 150 yd zero he could hold dead on up to the zero. Shooting a couple of inches high is still well within the kill zone.

If he keeps his shots to 150 yds it makes it very easy.

I hold zero at 100yds..... at 150yds, My POA is center of chest just behind the shoulder and at 200yds. it is at top back just behind the front shoulders... aiming this way has always put the bullet in the kill zone on whitetail and brought home the meat, with my gun.... Not too hard to learn or to remember....

I hold dead on to max range. 75yds. :D

Ron..........That looks better than a 100yd hold. What do you think?

I think the choice is bossmoss'.

I asked what you thought. Boss got his question answered.

It really doesn't matter what you use as zero, so long as you know the trajectory of your load and have a reasonably accurate estimate of the distance when you shoot at game. It's not all that difficult to place your sight center of chest, or at the top of the back, or six inches over the back.

But you must know your actual trajectory. I do a "trajectory study" with every gun and hunting load and keep the record. Shoot three shots each at 25, 50, 75, 100, 125, 150 and 175 yards. Then you know two things for sure; (1) the limit of your practical hunting accuracy, and (2) where to place your sights for any particular shot.

It really doesn't matter what you use as zero, so long as you know the trajectory of your load and have a reasonably accurate estimate of the distance when you shoot at game. It's not all that difficult to place your sight center of chest, or at the top of the back, or six inches over the back.

But you must know your actual trajectory. I do a "trajectory study" with every gun and hunting load and keep the record. Shoot three shots each at 25, 50, 75, 100, 125, 150 and 175 yards. Then you know two things for sure; (1) the limit of your practical hunting accuracy, and (2) where to place your sights for any particular shot.

I find 6-7" holdover easier to use than 14" at long distances, but that just me.

Exactly what i do, as well!! but the reason i zero at 100 is 99% of my shots are at 100 or less. Here in Indiana, where i hunt. unless you are on fields, which i rarely hunt, you will not have a long shot...

it has been my experience that the big boys don't play in the fields, unless it is after legal shooting light or during the rut.

That would be called, a preference!!! but really what is the difference??? whether you hold 6 or 12 you are holding over... When the biggest game you hunt is a whitetail and you hold at the top of the back 12-14" down is all, a dead deer... sounds simple to me!!

bottom line is practice at the distances you plan to shoot... that way when the time arrises, you are confident in your ability to make the shot...

I always think in terms of elk. 6-7" is still in the kill zone.

I've never even seen a whitetail in my part of Colorado.