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TNHagies 06-18-2011 10:55 AM

Tips? - Flintlock Igniton
 
Well I took the ol' flintlock out again today just for fun. The flintlock world is somewhat new to me. I'm trying to get mine tuned in and was wondering if anyone had any tips for faster ignition.

I've found using less pan powder works better.
I've experiemented with powder in the middle, outer edge ect
I've made sure the touch hole is clear before every shot
I wipe the frizzen between every shot
I wipe the edge of the flint between every shot
I keep the flint as sharp as I can (using TC Agate flints)

I'm kind of out of ideas as this point...

It'll go off everytime, but I can still hear/feel the lock before it goes boom. Is it just wishful thinkin' to believe I can get it as fast as a caplock?

Blue Ridge (Pedersoli) flintlock in .54
Goex FFG and Goex FFFFG
.18 pillow ticking
.530 round ball

Thanks in advance!
Scott

MountainDevil54 06-18-2011 11:13 AM

dribble a little 4f into the vent and give it a few smacks to mix it into the main powder charge.

May also help to switch to 3f in the barrel as the main charge.

cayugad 06-18-2011 11:32 AM

You are doing everything right. Wipe the frizzen and flint with alcohol will keep them nice and clean. I put the primer on the outside edge of the pan. The other thing you can try... put a fuzzy pipe cleaner into the touch hole. Close the frizzen. Now load your main charge. Open the frizzen, and SLOWLY pull that fuzzy pipe cleaner out of the touch hole. This will drag powder to the inside edge of the touch hole.

Be it know a flintlock does have a slight delay, but when done right there is very little and you get used to it. Just make sure to follow through. I was shooting my Lyman Trade rifle yesterday and it was very fast.

Muley Hunter 06-18-2011 12:10 PM

Maybe the touch hole is a bit too small?

bronko22000 06-18-2011 01:06 PM

Like Cayugad said. You're doing everything right. Your flinter will never be as fast as a percussion or inline. And again, the most important thing to do shooting a flinter is follow through on your shot. Trya nd keep that bead on the target until the recoil pulls it off.

HEAD0001 06-18-2011 01:39 PM

A flintlock is going to have a slight delay. That is just the nature of the beast. But a percussion also has a slight delay as well. You gotta hold that rifle. It really is that simple.

Personally I use 3F in the barrel, and either 7F or Null-B in the pan. That is some pretty fast powder. And should give about as fast of an ignition as possible.

Also your lock might need a good polishing. Some locks are definitely slower than others. Tom.

cayugad 06-18-2011 01:58 PM

Muley Hunter mentioned something I forgot. On all my flintlocks, I replace the factory touch hole with a RMC touch hole. They are a little bigger in their vent. Plus I then move to the allen head type. Much easier to get out for cleaning.

Semisane 06-18-2011 02:10 PM

Yep. I'd bet a case of beer that a RMC liner will solve your problem, and the difference may even amaze you. I use 3F Goex in the bore and the pan and hardly ever get what I would call a noticeable delay. Ignition with my Great Plains flinter seems pretty much like my caplocks.

TNHagies 06-18-2011 02:23 PM

Thanks for the info. I'll pick up an RMC liner. I had thought about geting one but this one has a pretty good size hole in it. Never hurts to try though.

MD, I'm going to try your dribble of 4f in the liner as well.

I haven't shot over 50g in it yet just because I'm trying to train myself to follow through with the shot. I'm getting better, but I still have room for improvement that's for certain.

I know it'll never be as fast as an inline, but I've heard/read about folks who claim they get "instant" igniton. I was just curious if that's possible or if "instant" is open to interpertation.

Semisane 06-18-2011 02:58 PM

If you're getting a WHOOSH-BANG, it should not be doing that. Too much powder in the pan may cause it, or too small a touch hole, or poor sparks from the flint. Dribbling powder into the touch hole is more likely to slow ignition than to speed it up. You don't want a fuse. You want a blast of hot gas through the touch hole to the main charge.

I tend to wipe the frizzen and flint after every couple of shots, and after every shot in Summer heat and humidity. But I can go ten or fifteen shots without having to poke the touch hole.

Powder in the pan should be below the bottom of the touch hole, not blocking it. In both of my flinters, a level layer across the entire pan seems to work best, and it doesn't take much. I would call my pans about 1/3 full. You should also consider some black English flints instead of the Agates. Some folks seem to have good luck with Agates, but I'm not one.

MountainDevil54 06-18-2011 03:36 PM

dribbling the powder into the touch hole doesnt slow anything down. Once you smack the stock a few times, it will settle into the main charge and mainly be closer to give it some extra oomph for a faster ignition.

nchawkeye 06-18-2011 03:47 PM

I'll tell you what I thinks makes for slow ignition in a flinter...

A touch hole that's too high...When I build a flinter I set it up so that the
touch hole is behind the heel of the frizzen when closed...You put that thing
down low where it can be covered with powder and the powder has to burn down
to ignite the main charge...

Where is this touch hole??? I've even made touch hole liners, counter bored them
and drilled them off center so it would be in the right place...I'd also look at going
to a White Lightning liner...

I don't care much for those cut flints either, I prefer the black English flints...

TNHagies 06-18-2011 05:04 PM


Originally Posted by Semisane (Post 3817514)
If you're getting a WHOOSH-BANG, it should not be doing that. Too much powder in the pan may cause it, or too small a touch hole, or poor sparks from the flint. Dribbling powder into the touch hole is more likely to slow ignition than to speed it up. You don't want a fuse. You want a blast of hot gas through the touch hole to the main charge.

It's more a 'chunk-bang' I don't get a fuse effect.



Originally Posted by Semisane (Post 3817514)
Powder in the pan should be below the bottom of the touch hole, not blocking it. In both of my flinters, a level layer across the entire pan seems to work best, and it doesn't take much. I would call my pans about 1/3 full. You should also consider some black English flints instead of the Agates. Some folks seem to have good luck with Agates, but I'm not one.

I am going to order a frizzen cover from TOTW and I'm going to order some flints as well. I'm open to trying anything. I will say, the English flint that came w/the gun sparks about the same amount as these Agates.


Originally Posted by nchawkeye (Post 3817524)
Where is this touch hole??? I've even made touch hole liners, counter bored them
and drilled them off center so it would be in the right place...I'd also look at going
to a White Lightning liner...

I don't care much for those cut flints either, I prefer the black English flints...

Here's a pic of both what amount/position of powder has worked for me so far-but again I'm up for any suggetions you guys may have.



nchawkeye, here's a pic of the touchole position.


TNHagies 06-18-2011 05:16 PM

I was looking at ordering one of the RMC liners but of course they don't show one for Pedersoli. Any idea on which one would work for mine?

MountainDevil54 06-18-2011 05:21 PM

Italian thread should work

Muley Hunter 06-18-2011 05:39 PM

That doesn't look like enough powder.

TNHagies 06-18-2011 05:45 PM


Originally Posted by Muley Hunter (Post 3817543)
That doesn't look like enough powder.

When I used more, the delay was greater.

Semisane 06-18-2011 06:26 PM

Chunk-Bang? That indicates to me that the delay is not between ignition of the powder in the pan and ignition of the main charge (i.e. Whoosh-Bang), but between the c0ck fall and pan ignition. If that's the case you're not getting a good shower of sparks hitting the pan powder and a different flint will likely do the job.

The other possibility is the geometry of the lock is such that the sparks are not being well directed into the pan. But I would be surprised if that's the case with a Pedersoli lock. Can you post a picture of the lock at half c0ck, with a flint in place and the pan closed? Also, you can operate the lock in a dark room (give your eyes time to adjust to the darkness) with no powder in the pan to get an idea of how much spark you're getting and where they seem to be hitting.

TNHagies 06-18-2011 06:45 PM


Originally Posted by Semisane (Post 3817555)
Chunk-Bang? That indicates to me that the delay is not between ignition of the powder in the pan and ignition of the main charge (i.e. Whoosh-Bang), but between the c0ck fall and pan ignition. If that's the case you're not getting a good shower of sparks hitting the pan powder and a different flint will likely do the job.

The other possibility is the geometry of the lock is such that the sparks are not being well directed into the pan. But I would be surprised if that's the case with a Pedersoli lock. Can you post a picture of the lock at half c0ck, with a flint in place and the pan closed? Also, you can operate the lock in a dark room (give your eyes time to adjust to the darkness) with no powder in the pan to get an idea of how much spark you're getting and where they seem to be hitting.

Ask and you shall receive:



I think it sparks pretty well but heck, what do I know I'm a flintlock rookie. :s2:

What are you guy's thoughts on using lead vs leather in the jaws? Make any difference?

bronko22000 06-18-2011 06:52 PM

I'd also try flipping that flint over so the part closer to the frizzen is on top. Also, if you're on 1/2 c0ck in that pic, I suggest larger flints to get you closer to the frizzen. I like my flint to be about 1/16" from the frizzen at 1/2 c0ck.

Semisane 06-18-2011 07:59 PM

I agree with Bronko. At half c0ck the flint should be a lot closer to the frizzen. Also, mounting it with the bevel down will cause it to hit higher on the frizzen and provide a longer striking stroke. A longer flint would be better, but you can also put a piece of wood (broken off twig) behind the flint to move it out farther. I've used both leather and lead and tend to favor lead. But leather works fine also. The only down side to lead is you have to re-tighten the c0ck screw after the first two or three shots, and then again two or three shots later until the lead really conforms to and grips the flint. But you may not be experiencing that with the flat/smooth Agates.

MountainDevil54 06-18-2011 09:05 PM

i read the gap should be the thickness of a nickel

Semisane 06-18-2011 09:16 PM

When I mount a fresh flint, I set it so I can barely see daylight between the flint & frizzen when on half c0ck.

cayugad 06-19-2011 07:32 AM

I am wondering if you have the right size agate. Normally they sit closer to the frizzen then that. If you have and Thomas Fuller black English flints, try one of them. When I put the new flint IN LEATHER and set it, the distance between the nose of the flint and the frizzen is about 1/16 of an inch. Its really tight. And the first few shots will reset that distance as the flint knapps.

I have never owned a Pedersolli but have heard a lot of good things about them. As for the threads in the touch hole, I would suspect that a Lyman thread might work. But could not guarantee it. Perhaps with a little research on your part through Pedersolli they could tell you the threads on their touch hole. Then you would be certain.

TNHagies 06-19-2011 09:52 AM

Sounds like the distance from flint to frizzen could be the culprit. I appreaciate all the help!

I'll order some new flints and give it a try.


Originally Posted by cayugad (Post 3817671)
I have never owned a Pedersolli but have heard a lot of good things about them. As for the threads in the touch hole, I would suspect that a Lyman thread might work. But could not guarantee it. Perhaps with a little research on your part through Pedersolli they could tell you the threads on their touch hole. Then you would be certain.

The fit and finish on the gun is excellent! I have nothing negative to say about it. I tried finding the tread size online but their website is in Italian and needless to say, I don't speak it. I'll do some more searching. I just didn't know if someone knew off the top of their head.

cayugad 06-19-2011 10:41 AM


Originally Posted by TNHagies (Post 3817469)
Well I took the ol' flintlock out again today just for fun. The flintlock world is somewhat new to me. I'm trying to get mine tuned in and was wondering if anyone had any tips for faster ignition.

I've found using less pan powder works better.
I've experiemented with powder in the middle, outer edge ect
I've made sure the touch hole is clear before every shot
I wipe the frizzen between every shot
I wipe the edge of the flint between every shot
I keep the flint as sharp as I can (using TC Agate flints)

I'm kind of out of ideas as this point...

It'll go off everytime, but I can still hear/feel the lock before it goes boom. Is it just wishful thinkin' to believe I can get it as fast as a caplock?

Blue Ridge (Pedersoli) flintlock in .54
Goex FFG and Goex FFFFG
.18 pillow ticking
.530 round ball

Thanks in advance!
Scott

RMC sports.com has touch hole liner replacements with the allen head part# ML187 and states they are a M8X1.25 threads for a Pedersoli rifle. I believe this is the one you would need. You can go to their site and search by the part number or the name in their catalog section.

Semisane 06-19-2011 11:19 AM


RMC sports.com has touch hole liner replacements with the allen head part# ML187 and states they are a M8X1.25 threads for a Pedersoli rifle. I believe this is the one you would need. You can go to their site and search by the part number or the name in their catalog section.
Cayugad is right. That's the one you need.

But the RMC site is not very friendly and has no search function. Go here http://rmcsports.com/catalog.htm and click on Black Powder Shooting Accessories on the menu at the left hand side of the page, then scroll down to the Nipples, 209 Adapters, Touch Hole Liners section.

RobertSubnet 06-19-2011 01:34 PM

TNHagies: give the lead a try I found my Traditions flintlock sparked a lot better with lead vs. leather. It may work for you. I also found my flints held up a whole lot better using lead instead of leather.

Good luck.


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