![]() |
Taking the Flinter out
Need to change it up a bit so i figured i'd take the ol kentucky out to 50 yards just for some fun shooting and see how she does.
Have 3 charges of 80gr american pioneer 2f and 3 charges of 90gr american pioneer 2f. I want to see how the 2f groups and make some sight adjustments. Shes lookin pretty. Every month i take the rifle out of the sleeve, rub it down with the antique oil finish, give it a few days to soak it up, wipe it down lightly and put her away until the next time i want to shoot it. Its really left a nice semi gloss finish over the year. |
Good grief!
APP in a flintlock. Is nothing sacred anymore? |
hey it shot great!
|
What did you use for prime?
|
i used 4f goex. The only goex in the house that i have left
|
Still seems wrong.
Flintlocks should stink, belch, and be filthy. |
the lock part was dirty and it still smells like a fart. The bore was nice and clean though.
|
Did you have to duplex that load? The reason I ask is, I was shooting the GPH today. I had saw your post earlier and decided I wanted to see if this GPH would fire off APP 2f. So I loaded 80 grains of it and a patched ball. I did not really care where it would hit. I primed the pan and went through two pans of prime and still no ignition. So on the third prime, I stuck the priming flask against the touch hole and pushed, then pulled that out away from the touch hole. That time it went off, but there was a definite tick..... BOOM. I then duplexed the next load with Goex 2f first and it went off much better that time.
|
Thats what i do, I go and put 3 grains of 4f goex into the pan, turn the rifle over lock side up and then smack the 4f through the touch hole and into the main charge, prime again and its good to go.
|
No pics of that rifle?
Last week I to had my flinter out. For the first time I used lead instead of leather to hold the flint. I could not believe the difference: good sparks, no flash in the pan and the flint face held up very well, no chipping. I will be using lead from now on! |
i'll get the pics off the camera later tonight.
|
Originally Posted by RobertSubnet
(Post 3798311)
No pics of that rifle?
Last week I to had my flinter out. For the first time I used lead instead of leather to hold the flint. I could not believe the difference: good sparks, no flash in the pan and the flint face held up very well, no chipping. I will be using lead from now on! |
i found it to be the opposite muley.
I have leather right now but it came loose just after 9 shots today. Lead seems like it produces more spark for some reason. |
Lead adds a touch of weight to the hammer and doesn't act as a shock absorber as leather can...This helps some locks spark a bit better...
|
Originally Posted by MountainDevil54
(Post 3798321)
i found it to be the opposite muley.
I have leather right now but it came loose just after 9 shots today. Lead seems like it produces more spark for some reason. Groan. Nobody believes me about anything. Here's another opinion. Read the first post. I can find a lot more. http://www.bersachat.com/forums/show...old-your-flint. |
"Lead does not give, or bounce, and it doesn't let a flint bounce when it hits the frizzen. Lead holds the flint firmly in the jaws of the ****, and provides weight to drive the flint into the frizzen and down in a scraping action to cut and throw very hot steel bits into the priming pan. If the lock is tuned properly, the angle of the **** to the frizzen will be correct and the flint will not only scrape steel from the frizzen in one continuous stroke, but will be self-knapping. That is, it will make a new edge every time the gun is fired. There will be no need to knap the flint, as it will not clog its edge with steel."
yep just like i said, i have had much better luck with lead wrapped flints. |
Originally Posted by MountainDevil54
(Post 3798358)
"Lead does not give, or bounce, and it doesn't let a flint bounce when it hits the frizzen. Lead holds the flint firmly in the jaws of the ****, and provides weight to drive the flint into the frizzen and down in a scraping action to cut and throw very hot steel bits into the priming pan. If the lock is tuned properly, the angle of the **** to the frizzen will be correct and the flint will not only scrape steel from the frizzen in one continuous stroke, but will be self-knapping. That is, it will make a new edge every time the gun is fired. There will be no need to knap the flint, as it will not clog its edge with steel."
yep just like i said, i have had much better luck with lead wrapped flints. It takes a few shots for a flint to "set up" in lead, unlike a leather wrap, so you have to initially check the tension on your **** screw about every 5 shots, but it will hold the flint firmly once the lead forms to the smooth surfaces of the flint. About every 30 shots you will need to check the flint to see where it is throwing the sparks. You may have to move it forward in the ****, and use a piece of twig behind the lead wrap to keep the flint wedged in the forward position. Aren't you glad that Mother Nature provides us with twigs virtually everywhere? |
Lead works better for me in my Great Plains. But you do have to tighten it after the first three or four shots, then again after a dozen or so. After that it stays tight until the flint needs repositioning.
|
| All times are GMT -8. The time now is 02:33 PM. |
Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.