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Old 01-01-2011, 04:14 AM
  #11  
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also, sabotloader, I will join that sight tonight when I get home. more reading is always good.
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Old 01-01-2011, 05:39 AM
  #12  
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The T/C New Englander came in .50, and .54 calibers. It also came with a walnut, or Rynite (synthetic) stock. The walnut stock models have a 26" round barrel, and the Rynite stock models came with a 24" round barrel, and both with 1 in 48" twists. They use a #11 ignition cap, with loose powder. (No pellets for these sidelock models). With 80 to 90 grains Goex FFG, and an .018" patch they are good shooters. The T/C rear tang sight is a good addition. However, these tang sights are harder to find than the T/C tang sight for the Hawken/Renegade. There is a differece in the contour of the base of the sight, so they are not interchangeable. The older standard (which most New Englanders have) rear sight is IMHO about as good an open sight as you can get. The way the rear blade sweeps down, puts the notch right on the front bead. The newer style standard rear sight, which is longer, and has "Thompson Center" written on it is not in the same class, as the original. Also, some (later models) have a QLA muzzle, while most have the rifling right up to the muzzle end.

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Old 01-01-2011, 08:28 AM
  #13  
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new englander is one solid gun.i like the oversize trigger guard for winter hunting. the tree hawk barrels with the fast twist 1-21 will also fit if you wanna do longer range sabot stuff. never liked the spring loaded rear sight though. the sights notch is great looking through but the screw would back out on mine once in a while changing the sight height. i also have the TC peep sight and didnt like that one either. i went with the solid rear 'V' peep on one of my barrels and scope mount on the tree hawk and 54 barrel. this company has the fiber optic and v peep that doesnt use a spring to adjust height. http://www.rmcsports.com/catalog.htm
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Old 01-01-2011, 02:11 PM
  #14  
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You do not put a patch between the powder and a conical. Now alot of guys use a "wad" between their powder charge and conical. But a "wad" is thicker and closer to the bore diameter than a patch is.

I normally try a conical without a wad first. Then when you are looking for an accurate load a wad can be a good thing to try. Some people lube the wad, and some don't. Personally I do not. But you can buy them pre-lubed. And the pre-lubed wads are fairly dry. That might be a good one to try first. I just know a guy who cuts mine for me from felt.

Buy a couple of cans of good old Black Powder and a powder measure, and have at it. Tom.
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Old 01-02-2011, 03:47 PM
  #15  
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thank you all very much for the information and it was most helpful and very good reading.
i wonder, what is the best method to clean this gun? do the barrels come off for cleaning? I am buying through a good source via pics only and have never held one in person, hence my question.
Would ffg blackpowder subsitues work just as well as say goex black powder? Thanks again for all the help and advice.
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Old 01-02-2011, 06:22 PM
  #16  
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With the 1-48 twist I would recommend trying the Noexcuses conicals with around 80 grains of 777 or 90 grains of BP or pyrodex...

The sighting system is up to you..I can't see regular open sights well anymore but a tang peep works fine on my Hawken..My nephew has done well for years with a scope on his new Englander..
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Old 01-02-2011, 06:41 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by mnprohunter
thank you all very much for the information and it was most helpful and very good reading.
i wonder, what is the best method to clean this gun? do the barrels come off for cleaning? I am buying through a good source via pics only and have never held one in person, hence my question.
Would ffg blackpowder subsitues work just as well as say goex black powder? Thanks again for all the help and advice.
How I clean mine: Assure ML is not loaded. Remove ramrod. Put hammer on half ****. Tap out, and pull wedge pin. Now the barrel will seperate from the stock. Submerge the breach end in a bucket of warm to hot water, with some dish soap added. Using a jag, and cleaning patch on your ramrod pump water thru the barrel. After a few strokes, remove the nipple, and continue pumping water thru the barrel. when you are satified, rinse the barrel, assure that the nipple area is clean, rinse the nipple, and use dry patches and cloths to dry the barrel. Once it is dry I like to run patches soaked with Hoppes # 9 thru, to get any remaing residue. Then run a dry patch thru, followed by a bore preservitive of your choice. Finish by cleaning, and oiling, metal sufaces. (especially the hammer) I use Goex Black Powder in all my sidelocks. Best performance. If I could not Goex for some reason, my next choice would be Pyrodex. I say this having tried most popular muzzleloading powders.
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Old 01-02-2011, 07:11 PM
  #18  
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pm sent your way
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Old 01-03-2011, 04:27 PM
  #19  
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Here is a picture of the gun in 54 caliber
Attached Thumbnails new englander-pix130150350.jpg  
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