loads and sabots
07-01-2009, 12:40 PM
#1
Fork Horn
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 155
loads and sabots
ok sitting home with half day to kill and its raining ... again..started looking over some bullets and such for my new pro hunter 50 and was wondering if i can use my 240 grain xtp bullets that i used in my .54 remington and what sabots should i use .. seems to me I used clear/white sabots from tc cant find the packaging. These really shot great out of my .54 with 115 grains of pyrodex rs.The next question what kind of difference will i see going from 11 caps to 209 primers and pushing with 777 pellets.?
07-01-2009, 02:01 PM
#2
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 6,585
RE: loads and sabots
Ny Smoker
Sabots are color coded for the most part now. Since your Pro Hunter and my Endeavor usually have pretty much the same barrel maybe the same sabots will work for you. look for the Short Black Harvester 50/45 to try there's a good chance that it will work if those are 45 -240 gr bullets if the are 44 I would use the green sabot 50/44. Lee
Sabots are color coded for the most part now. Since your Pro Hunter and my Endeavor usually have pretty much the same barrel maybe the same sabots will work for you. look for the Short Black Harvester 50/45 to try there's a good chance that it will work if those are 45 -240 gr bullets if the are 44 I would use the green sabot 50/44. Lee
07-02-2009, 10:47 AM
#3
Spike
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location:
Posts: 86
RE: loads and sabots
I shot the Hornaday 240 xtp's also with the supplied green sabot. I really had to stand on it to load and there were times I swore I heard my rod crack. Any other sabots I can try that will load easier. I don't shoot just to shoot, only when I'm hunting. I stalk when I hunt so Ineed something I can load relatively fast without having to jump on the rod to seat the sabot/bullet. MMP or Harvester crush rib??
07-02-2009, 05:59 PM
#5
Boone & Crockett
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Idaho
Posts: 11,703
RE: loads and sabots
flybub
I am not a 44 shooter so I am only giving an educated guess here but I believe the supplied green sabots are MMP's. If they are that tight then your next option is the Harvester Green Crush Rib...
Question? is "Pro Hunter' a new gun? TC is noted for their tight barrels. I got a new Triumph that was really a bear to load with any sabot I tried. Fortunately for me I shoot 45 cal bullets vs the 44 - there are a lot more sabot options for the 45.
But what I did was take a clue from Lemoyne and one evening after a range trip I sat down a ran 100 full length strokes of J-B Bore paste. After that loading problems were gone I load regular HPH-24's, even the Orange 458 sabots now without a problem. Does not always work but in this case for me it was great.
I am not a 44 shooter so I am only giving an educated guess here but I believe the supplied green sabots are MMP's. If they are that tight then your next option is the Harvester Green Crush Rib...
Question? is "Pro Hunter' a new gun? TC is noted for their tight barrels. I got a new Triumph that was really a bear to load with any sabot I tried. Fortunately for me I shoot 45 cal bullets vs the 44 - there are a lot more sabot options for the 45.
But what I did was take a clue from Lemoyne and one evening after a range trip I sat down a ran 100 full length strokes of J-B Bore paste. After that loading problems were gone I load regular HPH-24's, even the Orange 458 sabots now without a problem. Does not always work but in this case for me it was great.
07-02-2009, 06:33 PM
#6
Spike
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location:
Posts: 86
RE: loads and sabots
Sabotloader
The Pro Hunter is new and it has maybe 25-30 shots fired through it. I have 12 of the 44-240 HP/XTP's left so it's not a big deal for me to get something else. Everything at my local store is either T/C Shockwaves or Hornadays (I guess you call them all T/C) so I will have to order whatever you guys recommend. That's why I came to you experts because I don't want to drop alot of moneylooking fora sabot/bullet combination.
The Pro Hunter is new and it has maybe 25-30 shots fired through it. I have 12 of the 44-240 HP/XTP's left so it's not a big deal for me to get something else. Everything at my local store is either T/C Shockwaves or Hornadays (I guess you call them all T/C) so I will have to order whatever you guys recommend. That's why I came to you experts because I don't want to drop alot of moneylooking fora sabot/bullet combination.
07-03-2009, 05:54 AM
#9
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 6,585
RE: loads and sabots
JB Bore paste is a lapping polishing compound. It can be used several ways, if you put it on a very tight patch and stroke it all the way up and down your barrel it will polish the bore if you have any tooling marks in your bore then things will slide down it easier.
The other way is to use one of the forms of lapping, I don't do this unless it is necessary, you have to pour a lead slug in the barrel or for a light job flatten 4 or 5 lead balls and use a doll to force them into the bore a short way push them back out and center drill them put them on a 10 -32 screw and screw them on a good stiff range rod coat the with JB and stroke about every 10 strokes you have to start over,
THIS SHOULD NOT BE NECESSARY ON A NEW TC. If the barrel was that bad which is unlikely I would send it back.
What is some what normal on a cut barrel like TC uses is a few fine burrs on the edge of the rifling polishing or shooting a couple dozen big conical will normally break it in [sabots take a long time and a lot of shots] in an extreme case I might put a bit of JB or polishing compound on the big conicals before shooting [ this is call fire lapping. Most of this is just to fill you in on what we talk about and some terminology. Like Sabot loader said a few strokes with a patch and some JB's will most likely do it. Lee
The other way is to use one of the forms of lapping, I don't do this unless it is necessary, you have to pour a lead slug in the barrel or for a light job flatten 4 or 5 lead balls and use a doll to force them into the bore a short way push them back out and center drill them put them on a 10 -32 screw and screw them on a good stiff range rod coat the with JB and stroke about every 10 strokes you have to start over,
THIS SHOULD NOT BE NECESSARY ON A NEW TC. If the barrel was that bad which is unlikely I would send it back.
What is some what normal on a cut barrel like TC uses is a few fine burrs on the edge of the rifling polishing or shooting a couple dozen big conical will normally break it in [sabots take a long time and a lot of shots] in an extreme case I might put a bit of JB or polishing compound on the big conicals before shooting [ this is call fire lapping. Most of this is just to fill you in on what we talk about and some terminology. Like Sabot loader said a few strokes with a patch and some JB's will most likely do it. Lee
07-03-2009, 10:15 AM
#10
Boone & Crockett
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Idaho
Posts: 11,703
RE: loads and sabots
flybub
I would definitely suggest - trying to polish the barrel with J-B's
This the compound I was talking about...
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1...ANING_COMPOUND
This is nothing like Bore Butter - BB is basically a lubricant.
Bullets...
Do not jump on anything i suggest here as we all have different thoughts about bullets. First off i am not a pointy bullet person - my shots average maybe 50 yards yet iwant to be able to shoot to 200 yard which is my personal max with a ML - others will shoot farther and others will shoot less.
I do prefer the .452 (45 cal) bullet to the .430 (44 cal) as it offeres me a lot more options in weights and sabots - (different sized sabots).
So my suggestion might look something like this...
If you are looking for what I call a premium bullet.. the dollor per shot variety then i would suggest a Nosler Partition .451/260 grain bullet for deer and deer clas animal.
I use a .458/300 grain Nosler Partition PP for elk.
Both of these have been very good for me. There are other high quality premium bullets on the market, even a brand new one that I intend to use this year, made by Lehigh Bullets in PA.
If i were going to buy a regular bullet of the shelf I would go after the Speer Gold Dot series of bullets. They are bonded and have controlled expansion much like a Nosler/Barnes but are much less expensive. Again, I would go with the .452/250 grain Gold Dot for deer and the .452/300 for larger animals - actually of course the 300 would do equally well for both. The 250 is easily shot to 175 yards and with the high BC of the 300 you could reach out and tag an animal at 200.
Just sharing some thoughts...
The Pro Hunter is new and it has maybe 25-30 shots fired through it.
This the compound I was talking about...
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1...ANING_COMPOUND
This is nothing like Bore Butter - BB is basically a lubricant.
Bullets...
Do not jump on anything i suggest here as we all have different thoughts about bullets. First off i am not a pointy bullet person - my shots average maybe 50 yards yet iwant to be able to shoot to 200 yard which is my personal max with a ML - others will shoot farther and others will shoot less.
I do prefer the .452 (45 cal) bullet to the .430 (44 cal) as it offeres me a lot more options in weights and sabots - (different sized sabots).
So my suggestion might look something like this...
If you are looking for what I call a premium bullet.. the dollor per shot variety then i would suggest a Nosler Partition .451/260 grain bullet for deer and deer clas animal.
I use a .458/300 grain Nosler Partition PP for elk.
Both of these have been very good for me. There are other high quality premium bullets on the market, even a brand new one that I intend to use this year, made by Lehigh Bullets in PA.
If i were going to buy a regular bullet of the shelf I would go after the Speer Gold Dot series of bullets. They are bonded and have controlled expansion much like a Nosler/Barnes but are much less expensive. Again, I would go with the .452/250 grain Gold Dot for deer and the .452/300 for larger animals - actually of course the 300 would do equally well for both. The 250 is easily shot to 175 yards and with the high BC of the 300 you could reach out and tag an animal at 200.
Just sharing some thoughts...