Yeah, it took me a while to figure it out the standing. It's all about technique really. Once I figured it out I was putting all 5 shots in the black.

I used to compete in smallbore 3-position, you're right, it's ALL about technique. My problem was I was not patient enough to make 40 shots offhand in a row.

I practice the tough positions with a CZ453 Varmint at 50 yards with a small flip-up target set...90%+ of my shots in the field are off a bipod however, makes it hard to miss at any range.

Spaniel and SWT - if you don't mind, how about posting descriptions of proper technique for some of the more common shooting position - bench and field.

I've never had any formal training and struggle to get results anything like I see posted. Even a little shakey with a bipod and stay 100 yds and under with a single stick. I'm a pretty good shot with a bow and understand the difference good technique can have.

Any instruction would be greatly appreciated.

Steve

Your best bet is to look at sights where competitive shooters post (like certain areas of snipershide.com) but I'll provide some thoughts.

Bench
Now you can go all the way and get those fancy rests that basically hold the gun for you and remove human influence from the shot. I will assume you are like most of us and do not have this -- you shoot off some bags/blocks on a bench.

Make sure you have a solid bench. It's MUCH easier for me to get good results off my concrete-anchored bench than my foldout portable.

Set up your blocks to get the gun positioned so that you only need one bag (sand-filled preferable, but rice and birdseed work too) under the forend. DO NOT put the barrel on the bag, but the flattest area of the forearm. Under the read use another bag. Properly done, when the gun is resting on the setup you should be looking through the scope and be close to on target before you even hold the gun.

Position the stool so you are set up comfortably behind the gun, there should be no twisting or tension in your body to get in position. This will affect your "natural point of aim", or where the gun wants to point when you are relaxed. The closer your natural point of aim to where you want to hit, the better you will shoot. Errors here can be a major cause of unexplained flyers (shooter thinks shot was good, but relaxed somewhere as the gun fired and pulled the shot). Feet flat on the ground.

Keep your chest off the bench. If you do not your heartbeat will move your aim.

I pull the read bag back so it's under my armpit and supports the weight of my shooting shoulder. This means my shoulder (and therefore the butt of the gun) does not rely on muscle tension to hold position -- more stable. Right hand goes forward on the stock and trigger. Left elbow forward and to side on the bench, with the hand brought back under the bottom of the stock comb to pull the stock and gun back into the shoulder.

I start with my head a little too far back behind the scope so I see a black circle in the scope with light in the center, and I make sure this circle of light is centered in the scope. This makes sure I'm looking straight through the scope to reduce parrallex. Then I slide my cheek straight forward to the correct eye relief. Repeat this for EVERY shot for consistency.

Now you should be close to on target. Use gentle pressure of your left hand fingers squeezing the bag to adjust point of aim and squeeze the trigger gently.

Bipod
Many aspects are similar to above. The differences are straightforward.

Get the gun level on the bipod. Spend money on a good Harris bipod with swivel, so if you are on uneven ground you can still level the gun. On my centerfire I have a scope level but have not put on on my ML yet.

You need to "load" the bipod. In other words, you get down on the bipod and get the legs so they grip the ground, then scoot forward just a little so that when you shoulder the gun there is tension pushing the gun tightly back into your shoulder. This is very similar to a tight sling in 3-position shooting. Now the stock is an extension of your body. If you have it, put something under your shoulder to support it as you did on the bench. In the field I have sometimes used my coat but usually don't bother. Get your body position adjusted so your natural point of aim is about on target. Again, use your left hand wrapped back under the stock to help adjust your point of aim.

I think what most people screw up on the bipod is a) not loading the legs with pressure, and b) not using the left hand properly to fine-tune aim and trying to move the body.

Great info - THANKS!!!

I do have a solid bench made from 6 x 6 PT lumber - a tank.
However, I use a leadsled won as a doorprize and realize that it is not all that stable - front rest is supported by a 3/4" bolt.

I thought that might be one of the main issue. I have several tons of wood pellets on my back deck overlooking a 20 acre feild full of woodchucks. I started using them as a rest for my .204 and was amazed at how dead steady I could get on target. The feild is not full anymore.

I'll get some bags for the bench and work on that.

One more question on the bipod:
It sounds like you are saying to angle the legs away from you a bit - is that right?

Thanks again
Steve

Steve, you can make perfectly good bags from pant legs of old jeans. Multiple sizes of bags can be handy. Don't overfill your bags, leave a little room in there so the bag can be shaped a bit as needed.

You'll just need someone to sew for you. ;)

I've had bad luck with front pedestals. If you're going to buy one that will work it will be expensive, I have a cheaper one and I quit using it as it wobble a bit and it doesn't take much for one to be crap.

+1 on filling old jeans legs. I have a few I'll be doing just that with soon.

As for the bipod, you cannot angle the legs of a Harris bipod forward, they fold forward and then snap back to a vertical position. Unless you are on a flat, slick surface (concrete or a plywood bench), they will typically hold pretty well on the ground as you put moderate forward pressure on them. You can get aggressive "pod claws" for them but they are overkill for most applications.

If you use a bipod on a bench, it may work ok if you put a folded towel under the legs to increase "grab". I don't like bipods on benches though, and mine (the tallest Harris variety) is too tall for a bench anyways.

excellent information...

Gonna have to find someone else's.
Would have trouble moving mine when full.:s2:


Thanks to all - great info!

Steve