It worked, and i'm ready.
 

Thanks to Sabotloader for suggesting BOILING hot water to get rid of my plastic build up. The 45 Knight Disc Elite is ready to hunt. I shot to fouling shots before leaving home and went to the range. This was my first and only three shot group at 108yds with this ML. I used 130grns of BH209, and the 200grn Lehigh Bullet. Not the normal 140grns. The group would tighten up with 140grns by volume with BH209. This is plenty good for what i'm doing.









I do want to mention my back up gun will be a Knight Vision with 130grns of BH209, and a 250grn Lehigh Bullet.
I will be leaving Friday morning and hunting first thing Saturday morning

RE: It worked, and i'm ready.
 

Yeah, that ought to do it. :)

RE: It worked, and i'm ready.
 

Grouse45

thank gosh it worked - pressure is off. I would have really been in the dumps had it not worked..

That surely will do it...

Do not forget a really good camera - and get pictures of everything - but I will warn you I have set off during hunting season to get good pictures several times and remember to take pictures about the time I am ready to pack it out....

Good luck on the hunt.... actually you probably do not need a lot of good luck finding an animal - so make a good shot...

RE: It worked, and i'm ready.
 

WOW!! that is some good shooting. That should put a world of hurt on Miss Piggy.

RE: It worked, and i'm ready.
 

Good Shooting and Have a Good Hunt.
Art

RE: It worked, and i'm ready.
 

+1. That is good enough for a hogs. Chap

RE: It worked, and i'm ready.
 

I agree, that's some good shooting. Looks almost identical to my what my Endeavor shot with the Barnes T-EZ, but a little looser. But you said 108 yards in your post and the pic says 118... Why not just make it 100 yards? Or is the range you shoot at set-up for that specific distance?

I do have to give you props for the targets too! That's definitely a pretty slick way to advertise for Lehigh. Did you get that done at Staples or Office Depot???

RE: It worked, and i'm ready.
 

I have a question, can any one explaine why some people have plasticstick to there barrels and some not? I shoot as heavy a load as any one I know and have never had the problem yet. It and crud ring seem to borther some of us and not others. Lee

RE: It worked, and i'm ready.
 

lemoyne

When he asked me - I really thought it was because of the diet of 140 grain BH loads that he was shooting... Then he and Chap compared it a Savage with hot loads...

I have not had a plastic problem since the introduction of Polymere - BUT - I do not shoot those really hot loads. Another thing if you do shoot those loads - cleaning with a plastic solvent of some sort each time you shoot might be a decent idea... Hoppes is not a plastic solvent.

RE: It worked, and i'm ready.
 

Good question Lee. I've never noticed a plastic build up in any of my barrels. After Grouse's earlier post I double checked the bore of my .45 LRH barrel because I recently shot a lot of sabots through it with some pretty hot loads. I even tried a tight patch very wet with carburetor cleaner and got nothing out of the barrel, though I never use a brush in my ML barrels. I wonder if a brush would find some plastic?

RE: It worked, and i'm ready.
 

Probably. I know a lot of people are against the use of bronze brushes in their bores. I really don't know why because thats all the military uses and I can personally testify that they don't hurt anything. But since all I can ever find in the .50 cal size is nylon bore brushes, that's what I use. And I never have a plastic build-up issue.

RE: It worked, and i'm ready.
 

Semi

A brush will certainly get some of it - if it is somewhat loose - but the worst part of it is usually blown and tucked in behind the lands on the breech side and normally closer to the breech than the muzzle. The biggest cause of plastic fouling is heat melting-working- on the cup of the sabot. Then if the sabot starts jumping lands again it leaves plastic as it jumps by the lands.

Most of the ML cleaners now have some sort plastic solvent in them, most centerfire cleaners do not unless you are using a shotgun wad cleaner, and if you do your routine maintenance maintenance with one of these plastic solvents you are probably staying on top of the problem. In the worst case - the solvent will loosen the plastic to the point the brush may be able to grab it.

I suggested the boiling treatment as it gets out all of the fouling including plastic in one easy step. The heat of the water will cause the barrel to expand causes the plastic to stretch loosen and release its hold on the metal and the flakes litterally fall out, with the action of a bore mop.

I am not sure that C Cleaner will get the plastic in one treatment esecially the really tough stuff, but again a lot of us are not really getting that build up - due to light loads and our own personal cleaning procedures.

I personally prefer not to use a bronze or brass bore brush, I will use a fiber brush on occasion but even then not very often or as it is needed.

Semi, How does this go along with your thoughts

RE: It worked, and i'm ready.
 

I would say my fault for sure. I shot well over 100 shots at over 2400fps with SST'S and Lehighs and didnt clean the barrel. I will clean it again this weekend.

RE: It worked, and i'm ready.
 

I work for a plastic distributor and we sell a lot of polyethylene which is what the sabots are made of. Great stuff, slicker than snot, but it melts if there is enough friction and gums up our saw blades. we have found nothing that actually dissolves it. Wish there was 'cause we could use that as a glue to weld pieces together. Lacquer thinner seems to loosen the stuff off of the saw blades so we can brush/peel it off. The best you can hope for is to soften it and boiling water is cheaper and less explosive than thinners.

RE: It worked, and i'm ready.
 

gearheart

Thanks a ton for that information... it certainly does track for me

RE: It worked, and i'm ready.
 

Thanks, that Barnes CR-10 is pretty strong stuff to.