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CVA Electra Questions??

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CVA Electra Questions??

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Old 08-24-2012, 05:08 PM
  #11  
Spike
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: spotsylvania, va
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I own two and both are tack drivers at 100yds using pyrodex and 250 gr SSTs. I have not tried 777 in them. I bought them just to shoot at the range but they are permitted during hunting season here in VA. I like them and am not worried about parts in the future as I bought them for 120 and 130 bucks from Sportsman guide with free shipping. To me they are fun to shoot and as an electronics engineer I think it's pretty cool they use a circuit and battery.
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Old 08-27-2012, 08:20 AM
  #12  
Fork Horn
 
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I've found that batteries and hunting equipment are bound to fail when you need em to work.
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Old 08-28-2012, 07:28 AM
  #13  
Fork Horn
 
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Thats an easy fix. Check your batteries daily and replacce when needed. My batteries in my range finder have never failed when I needed it. This problem is overated I went to Iraq with a M68 optic and my batteries never failed in combat either.
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Old 08-28-2012, 07:50 AM
  #14  
Dominant Buck
 
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My understand is.. and correct me if I am wrong.. You push a brush down the bore and sweep off the electric arch? I know there is something to do with a brush. When they were on sale, I pm'd with a lot of people about whether they were going to take the plunge and purchase one. I did not as they are not legal in Wisconsin, so it would have been a range toy and I just can justify another range toy. But I was sure interested.

Also I agree with Nimmrodder on the battery problem. I used to hunt with a RED DOT on a rifle, a camera, and had a GPS in the bag. All battery dependent. Never once did I have a problem. Although I kept a spare set of batteries for them. I got rid of the RED DOT not because I had battery issues, I just did not like the aiming device. Its now on a handgun, and still the battery in it is working.
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Old 08-28-2012, 03:57 PM
  #15  
Spike
 
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Dave,
Nothing wrong witha range toy! You have to run the brush down the bore every 7 shots or so to clean the contacts but i have gone 10 without running it down. I also agree with you on not worrying about the electronics failing but here in VA to be considered unloaded the battery must be removed and it is hidden in the grip; requires two screw removal. I sure don't want to be messing around with them 20 feet up a tree in the dark. I can hear them, the grip cap or the screwdriver falling already!
R
John
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Old 08-28-2012, 06:49 PM
  #16  
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Thats for explaining the brushing. I knew there was something to do with a brush. You know, I never thought about the fact that to "unload" that rifle, you'd have to pull the battery. I guess I see fish and game's point. Just turning the rifle ignition off would hardly disable the rifle as if you suddenly turned it on, by the time you got the rifle clear of the car, it would be ready to shoot.
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Old 08-29-2012, 04:17 AM
  #17  
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I believe unprimed in an electra means just turning it off. It takes about 20 seconds for the capacitor to charge so it is actually faster for me to throw a primer in my accura than it is to prime the electra. I have not seen a need to remove the battery except at the end of the season. As far as the brushing goes, about every 10 shots is right.
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Old 08-29-2012, 05:08 PM
  #18  
Spike
 
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Jcroba,
I got to thinking what you said and had to go back to the regs and re-read. Here is what it says:

For the purposes of transportation in a vehicle, muzzleloading firearms are considered "unloaded" when all powder has been removed from the flashpan, or the percussion cap, primer, or battery has been removed from the firearm.

So i think you are correct I should be able to just turn the switch off and be legal coming out of the woods but must remove prior to transport. I would still have the problem of constantly unscrewing and screwing the grip cap and in the dark both am and pm.

Thanks for having me re-check.

Dave, sorry guess my long term memory is shot!

R
John
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