sabotloader

Absolute Giant

I have sort been lurking on this one but I guess noe I will add my 2 cents. Since your gun is new it will probably have a real "tight" barrel, therefor Powerbelts will load easily and most sabot/projectile loads will be tight. For awhile until you get that barrel broken in you my have to use any of these sabots to get your loads down snugly.

TC's - yellow super glides
Hornady's - Low Drag
Harvester's - Crush Rib
MMP's - HPH-3p-EZ load sabots...

My Omega has been shot a lot and the barrel is broken in so at this time I am using MMP HPH-24 Sabots or the regular Harvester sabots...

Here are my most favorite loads...

for Elk
100 grains T7-2f (loose) .458/300 grain(45-70) Nosler Partition PP, HPH-24 Sabot, 25 acp ignition
for deer
100 grains T7-2f (loose) .451/260 grain Nosler Partition HP, HPH-24 sabot, 25 acp ignition

These bullets are expensive so for an alternative and a bullet that I can shoot paper as well as big game - I am moving to the Speer Gold Dot Bonded HP's, either the .452/300 for elk or the .452/250 for deer. Same powder load and sabot.

I buy all of my bullets in bulk reloaders boxes and order the sabots separately... trying to keep cost down. Buying bubble packages of bullets and sabots can really add up.

Good luck with your new gun...

rks1949

I just learned a new trick this last week,from another shooteron another forum. My Pro Hunter has allways shot well with a tight fitting bullet/sabot combo. It was a real PITA to load though. Another shooter said to try a light coating of (here we go) Bore Butter on the sabot,and to use a patch with Bore Butter on it,to coat the barrel between shots after wiping out the fouling between shots. I have to say I was a little wary about this,but wanting to have a easier loading bullet/sabot combo I would try anything. After a day at the range I'm impressed,and converted!The gun will load with one hand (no bullet starter needed) and absolutly drives tacks! Two other shooter were there and tried it as well,and got the same results ( the last I seen of them,they were heading out to get a tube of Bore Butter)The gun cleaned up with 2 patches,and a breech plug scrubbing. There was (for the first time) no plastic res. in the bore at all. I know allot of you guys don't like Bore Butter. I only used it for gunstorage in the bore after cleaning the gun up after a shooting session. I've also found out that the gun now shoots to the samePOI on the first shot as it does on the rest. I just leave the Bore Butter (a light coating) in the bore from the last cleaning/storage. My gun allways shot high on the first shot(clean dry nonfowled bore) But now it shoots to the same POI on every shot! Just goes to show ya,even an old dog CAN learn new tricks. Now I don't even think about chrushed rib sabots,EZ glide,ect. The standard Shock Waves (that I used to have to drive down the boar) load without a ball starter,and one hand on the ram rod. To say I'm happy with the accuracy,and loading would be a understatment! This is a pic of a target I shot while sighting in a new scope,on the PH. I left it set at shot #7there was a cross wind,and the next day none,it was at 12 O'clock high on the money. http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d86/rks1949/Hunting/100ydtargetProHunter.jpg

Hasenpfeffer

Hello Giant,

My Omega load: 300 grain Hornady SST/ML in Harvester crush rib sabot on top of 100 grains loose T7 for mule deer. I substitute T/C's 300 grain bonded core Shockwave for elk. I stick with the heavy bullets so I only have to sight in for one load. This load has fairlystout recoil (not that you'll ever notice it when you have a deer in your sights).

My Omega starts to blow thegroup at 105 grains and really blows the group at 110 grains, so I just stay with 100 grains. You'll have to find how for yourself much T7 your Omega can burn before it starts spraying.

I used theSST/MLload two weeks ago on a mulie at 160 yards. Complete pass through. Didn't have to track him at all.

Hasenpfeffer

L. Clement

I am as well new to the Black Powder family, only had mine for about 3 days and fired about 25 rounds. I wanted to get my scope (Nikon Omega) sighted in at 100 yd’s and have gotten close. I have been using shock wave 250g with 2 50/pellets of pyrodex. Today shot 4 rounds in the 9 ring at 100 yd’s. Looking forward at moving back further.

I think I will be trying the T7 pellets as I hear and have read they are less corrosive then pyrodex and easier clean up. I hope my Omega likes this because I don’t like the idea of using corrosive powder when there are other alternatives. Plan to try the T7 powder as well.

Been using the 209 Remington black powder primers and they have worked well. I am sure the Winchester T7 primers would work fine as well.

Still have some work to do but off to a good start. I have heard the some of the hornady rounds are the exact same as the shock waves, anyone know what model that is? I wonder if the hornady brand would be cheaper.

gleason.chapman

No the Hornady's are not cheaper, the SWs are and they load better because they use a different sabot--mmp 24 I believe, but I could be wrong in that. 777 is less corrosive than Pyrodex, since there is no sulfur, however it does leave a crud ring which you must swab between shots to get accuracy and loading consistancy, even in the field, not just at the range. Most of us (including me), started with pyrodex pellets, then graduated to 777 pellets, then to 777 loose, saves money and is easier to findasweet point for a rilfe. Most Omega rifles will shoot well with 777 loose between90 and 120g. Using 3 pellets or > 120g loose loads is a waste of powder and accuracy will suffer. The 300g SW is a proven tack driller in most rifles and has a bc of .25, which is high, it is good to 175 yards if sighted in 2.5" high at 100 yard. They 250g SW is very accurate in most rifles, has a lower BC, and in ballistic tests at close range they fragment. Some folks love them, and do >>NOT<< experience the fragmentation, so that is the scoop on SW. I don't think you will have a problem with them on most deer, a huge deer shot close---may be a long tracking job. That is the down side of fragmentation. Here is the fragmentation into wet newspaper:

http://dougva.proboards34.com/index.cgi?action=display&board=Savage&thre ad=1123448850&page=1

Best Wishes on your load and bullet combination in your Omega.
Chap Gleason

Buckhunter46755

Where I live, (IN) The Hoarnady XTP, XTP MAG, & SST bullets are half the price of Shockwaves. I guess it depends where you are from, but that's not fair. They should be the same price everywhere. It might depend on what type you are buying. I am shooting the SG SW's and they are almost twice as much as the Hornadys.

PS. The image on the link you posted shows the 250gr Hornady SST's fragmenting. It doesn't show or say anything about TC Shockwaves. I am sorry but your info is wrong.
Check it out.


chris

L. Clement

Thanks for the information, on the T7. I always swab thoroughly between shots anyway and was still experiencing a ring with the pryodex as well. I can feel it at the bottom of the bore with the ram rod but after a few short cleans with the rod and a wet patch then a dry I get it pretty clean.

I found a place on line that had the SW SG’s for $9.97 (or close to that) so I got 5 boxes as I want to play with the charge and see what happens. The shipping was 9.99 but it was still cheaper then other online vendors at the end of the sale. I guess I will stick with the SW’s for now and then try something else when I have more time.

Buckhunter46755

I'm sure you'll like the SG SW's they shoot great, and are easy to load.

chris

L. Clement

Yeah they seem to be the thing to use at this point, I found some Hornady 250 SST/ML at a pawn shop here in town (only place that was even close to the SW’s)

These look identical to the SW’s except the yellow Sabot is black and the polymer tip is red instead of yellow. I strongly suspect that these are the same round… does anyone know for sure???????

Oh I paid 10.95 for these 20 Hornady SST not bad, but if they are fragmenting maybe I will try the 300 G version instead.