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Help getting started casting bullets
Can anyone suggest a book, website, or other reference material to teach someone about casting bullets? Ive been reading posts about others who do so and it seems interesting.
How much does a set-up cost to get started? Is it something that can be learned without too much trouble? Thanks! |
RE: Help getting started casting bullets
Casting is not all that hard to do. You need some very basic things. One is a good supply of lead. Lee sells some excellent molds at a reasonable price. A ladle, a smelting pot I bought from Lyman, a good beeswax candle helps to flux the lead. I use a substance called Rapine Mold Lube, but have never seen it offered anywhere recently to treat my molds. My bottle of mold lubeis over 20 years old and I am still on the same bottle.A heat source is easy, get a propane turkey cooker and use the bunsenburner off that. That's what I did and it works great.
As for a book, I think LEE MOLD sells a book on casting. To be honest, I taught myself through trial and error. There are some tricks you learn to make the mold work at its best and things to watch out for. Just remember, casting can be dangerous. This is not thetime for children and pets around you. Keep your work are clear of things you can trip on. Also sweat control is important because you want no moisture hitting that molten lead. You need a well ventilated room, and proper clothing and protection before you even begin. I'm sure if you googled "how to cast lead projectiles" it would send you to some sites to get you started... Good luck. Its a lot of fun, and a lot of satisfaction when you shoot something you made and it works good. |
RE: Help getting started casting bullets
Same here, I more or less taught myself. I have the "ABCs of reloading" and there's some good info in there.
I have the Lee precision melter, around $26 from Midway or Midsouth. Lee molds and a Lyman ladle. I use the Frankford Arsenal drop out spray and don't smoke my molds anymore. Check this out- http://www.austinrifleclub.org/Documents/Articles/Bullet_Casting_Primer.htm |
RE: Help getting started casting bullets
Even though I use Rapine lube on my molds, I still smoke them over a candle before I start to cast. I guess old habits just die hard with me. That is a good link mcawful.. thanks.
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RE: Help getting started casting bullets
Buy the Lyman book on cast bullets. Everything you need to know is in that book. Buy it before you buy anything, and read it cover to cover. Basic casting is inexpensive. Just jump in with both feet. If you do not like how the bullet comes out of the mold, just drop it back in the pot, and pour another one. I personally do not care for the Lee molds, I like the Lyman and RCBS. They are a bit more expensive, but in my opinion they are made out of better material,will last alot longer, and are more durable. Tom.
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RE: Help getting started casting bullets
I've had a number of Lee molds for over 20 years and they still cast fine.
One thing I do though is never leave them hot and empty to cool. When I am done casting I leave the last projectile in the mold and let the mold cool with a projectile in the mold. That way the mold never twists, or shifts and I think it helps the mold cool more uniform. This was something an old time caster told me to do. Whether its necessary or not, I could not say, but it seems to work for me. |
RE: Help getting started casting bullets
Thanks guys once again for the advice.
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RE: Help getting started casting bullets
I'm like you Dave,... had my Lee molds for a few years now and still working fine. I also heard from another reloader that if you let the last casting cool in the mold, it'll extend the mold life. I've been doing it for years now and mine work fine.
Alot of folks don't like the Lee gear simply because it's less expensive than RCBS, Redding or Lyman. I like it, it works for me. Why change when it works? Just to spend 4 times as much? If I was a high production operation, I can understand the pricey stuff, but I cast for me and my Dad, and soon, my son. Lee fits my budget and my needs. To each his own. When I grow up, I want to get some RCBS gear, but right now it ain't in the shooting budget. Heck, I make alot of my gear, rather than buy. I made a short starter by looking closely at the ones at BassPro. Mine cost $1, rather than the $14 they wanted. |
RE: Help getting started casting bullets
If I become good at casting, will it be possible to make bullets as good as the professionals like Bull Shop or No Excuses?
You guys that do cast bullets, do you still buy conical bullets from other people? |
RE: Help getting started casting bullets
ORIGINAL: andrewjoseph If I become good at casting, will it be possible to make bullets as good as the professionals like Bull Shop or No Excuses? You guys that do cast bullets, do you still buy conical bullets from other people? |
RE: Help getting started casting bullets
ORIGINAL: andrewjoseph If I become good at casting, will it be possible to make bullets as good as the professionals like Bull Shop or No Excuses? You guys that do cast bullets, do you still buy conical bullets from other people? Daves absolutely correct when he said that you can cast as good as the pros. But to do that, you have to have the right equipment. Pricier mollds than I own and a better casting setup, maybe a pot with a bottom pour. |
RE: Help getting started casting bullets
also heard from another reloader that if you let the last casting cool in the mold, it'll extend the mold life. I've been doing it for years now and mine work fine. Wheel weights make for good cheap lead to cast- its soft enough for roundballs,or can be quenched in water to harden them fairly hard. For bullets with sharp narrow driving bands, add some lead/tin solder to the melt- I usually add about 18" of 50/50 solder wireper 10lbs of melted wheel weights. Tin helps with filling out moulds by slowing the lead from crystallizing. A good cheap setup for starting would be a $8 hotplate from walmart and a small iron pot- I use such a set up for processing wheelweights into clean alloy, and a lee pro pot IV ($50)for casting. I use the propot because it had a bottom pour spout, but if you usea ladle such as Lyman ladle, you can use a hotplate/pot for casting. A lyman cast bullet handbook is a really good investment before you start. A very good website to visit- I spend countless hours there reading and learning is http://castboolits.gunloads.com/Some of the people there are true experts. |
RE: Help getting started casting bullets
Im looking at http://www.midwayusa.com/ebrowse.exe/browse?TabID=2&Categoryid=9259&categorystr ing=685***8657***8664*** at the minnie and maxi ball molds. There are diameters next to them, like 454, 450, 578,575, ect.. What is this number and what does it mean?
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RE: Help getting started casting bullets
Lee 1-Cavity Original Minie Ball Bullet Mold 575-500M 575 Diameter 500
This is a Lee single cavity (means it cast one) Minnie Ball is the description. For instance it could say SWC which is a single wad cutter. The first set of numbers (575)in the description tell you the diameter/ or caliberof the projectile. The second set (500m) tell you the weight of the projectile when casted out of pure lead. The weight part is not quite accurate. I cast a 405 grain .458 diameter FN bullet but they actually weigh 422 grains on average instead of 405 grain like they claim. |
RE: Help getting started casting bullets
Also your results might vary, but I have the minnie molds for .50 & .54 caliber and I have yet to find a rifle that shoots them well. I think I would need a .577 bore to get some good accuracy out of them. They are fun to shoot mind you, but not as accurate as I demand.
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RE: Help getting started casting bullets
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RE: Help getting started casting bullets
ORIGINAL: Briman A very good website to visit- I spend countless hours there reading and learning is http://castboolits.gunloads.com/Some of the people there are true experts. |
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