Newbe Question about sabots
 

I'm used to shooting power belts in my 209 Buckhorn magnum.
If I changed over to these type..do I push the sabot and the dark gray sleeve down the muzzle.Kind of like a shot gun wad..??I'm guessing I do but feel like I better ask. I found these on Cabelas
Thanks,
C7

RE: Newbe Question about sabots
 

The plastic sabot and the bullet are meant to be loaded as a unit (as inyour picture on the left). Do not try to load the plastic sabot first and then the bullet because the bullet most likely will not go into the sabot and could cause a very dangerous situation of an obstructed barrel. Just think of the sabot andbullet the same as you would a conical or Powerbelt and load then together.

Good luck and be safe.

RE: Newbe Question about sabots
 

They are loaded as a unit as David said. Also you might find a need to swab the barrel between shots. So if you have no short starter, be sure and get a T handle model. You're going to need it. If your buckhorn is like my Staghorn, 90 grains of loose powder and one of them will produce some excellent accuracy.

RE: Newbe Question about sabots
 

Thanks again gents,
This is by far one of the friendliest sites here on this forum.
C7

RE: Newbe Question about sabots
 

Do you have to use anything special to swab between shots. I have heard some say the plastic from the sabot adheres to the rifling. Is this true? I have always used Powerbelts because I was told they do not damage the rifle as much. But the price makes it hard to justify spending a lot of time at the range to the wife!! Long story short, do saboted bullets damage your gun if you don't use a special solvent between shots? Another rookie asking a silly question I imagine. Thanks, SWKSrookie.

RE: Newbe Question about sabots
 

Powerbelts work - they kill deer. They're easy to load. They're accurate in some rifles. They're also WAAAAY overpriced, and underperform. For less money, go to a sabot with a 240-300gr bullet (heavier is probably better). No, sabots don't damage rifling - in fact, they seem to keep it pretty clean, compared to a greased conical.

I've killed a couple deer this year with 240gr Hornady XTP. I'm going to kill the next one with a T/C CheapShot 240.... just cause they're cheap, and are very accurate in my gun. Seem to me that a 240 HP ought to do the trick; I'll post report soon as I kill one with the CheapShot. I'll be using 90-95 grains of Pyrodex RS.

RE: Newbe Question about sabots
 

The plastic used in sabots today is not like the old sabots when they first came out. I shoot hundreds of sabots out of rifles and have yet to have a build up of plastic. As long as the rifle is cleaned properly at the end of the day the plastic worries are really unfounded as far as I am concerned.

Swabbing between shots is a good idea unless shooting certain powders. Then swabbing can effect the accuracy of the rifle. I swab a rifle with a mixture of 50/50 windshield washer fluid and isopropyl alcohol 91%. I swab the barrel working it over in short strokes from muzzle to breech and then a couple dry patches. You're then ready to load as normal.

I swab when I shoot Pyrodex, Goex, Swiss, KIK, Triple Se7en or pellets. When I shoot Black Mag3, Pinnacle, or APP I do not swab the barrel between shots.

Many people have excellent hunting results with powerbelts. Some on the other hand have some real horror stories about lack of knock down and blood trail. I personally have not had a deer willing to act as a test subject when loaded with powerbelts.

Remember if you shoot powerbelts. Pull the plastic base off before loading. You will see a lead spike on the bottom of the conical. Put a drop of oil on that spike or bore butter, then replace the plastic base. This lube will help the bullet shed the plastic base faster and give you better accuracy.

RE: Newbe Question about sabots
 

IMHO if you are going to shoot those bullets with sabots then you should also buy a bullet aligner. I believe the aligner keeps the bullet true in the sabot, and centered in the barrel. If you really like to shoot alot, and cost is stopping you, then buy an inexpensive mold and cast your own. You would be surprised how inexpensivethe basics are.Tom.

RE: Newbe Question about sabots
 

Chuck, I'm not sure what you are trying to ask. The sabot is the dark plastic thing in the picture. Websters defines a sabot as "a thrust-transmitting carrier that positions a projectile in a tube". Put the bullet (the copper thing with the sharp plastic tip in the case of this Hornady SST) inside the sabot andstick it in the end of the barrel (after you have loaded the powder of course), bullet pointed up. If your gun has rifling that extends all the way to the muzzle you may need a short starter to push the bullet/sabot unit to get it started. Take your ramrod with a loading jag attached and pust the bullet/sabot unit the rest of the way down the barrel until it just touches the powder. That's it.

RE: Newbe Question about sabots
 

Yep, just load it as one unit. Push it down until it touches the powder.The sabot creates kind of a seal and will come off after being fired. They're much simpler and more accurate than round balls. I don't recommend the Powerbelts because of the price either. It's about a dollar a bullet basically. By the way if you use the sabots with pointed tips, you'll have to get the right kind of loading tip for the ramrod--otherwise you'll damage the bullet.

RE: Newbe Question about sabots
 

Shot a spike buck tonight, right at dark. This is the first deer I've shot with a T/C "CheapShot" pure lead sabot, and I'm here to report that this cheapie sabot works just fine. Four bucks for twenty shots, too. A deal.

I was aiming downward pretty steeply - I was high up in my climber, and he was close to the tree - bullet hit top center of neck just forward of sholders - blew through and exited base of throat. He went about three feet, straight down to the ground.

It is great fun to plan and plot and 'work up' the next deadly load, and to pour over ballistic charts. I've done it. But, I'm pretty much convinced that you can hunt with a CheapShot - or a pedestrian XTP, if you want to go extravagant - on top of a modest 90gr of powder, and kill deer just as effectively as using the latest $2.50/shot load.

I don't want to discourage anyone from buying the latest and greatest stuff - it's good for business! - but don't think that you have to, or that you'll gain a great deal.

RE: Newbe Question about sabots
 

Also be aware that barrels and sabots come in different sizes in the same caliber as there are no set stanards or tolorances that muzzleloader manufacturers are required to meet.The sabots are reasonably consistant but you have to find what fits your barrel,they should be snug enough to seat solidly and stay,but still go down the barrel with a reasonable amount of pressure.Lee

RE: Newbe Question about sabots
 

Lee touches on a point that I don't think has been directly addressed. In a 50 cal ML, you shoot a smaller caliber bullet in a 50 cal sabot. These bullets are usually 40-45 caliber. I only mention it because I nearly bought a 45 caliber sabot/bullet combo for my 50 cal which would have fallen in the barrel and been extremely unsafe. If you purchase the sabot/bullet together (like your picture of the hornady SST) 50cal=50 cal. If you get creative and buy them seperate you'll likely shop for 45 cal bullets and 50 cal sabots. Seperately purchased sabots (MMP & Harvestor for example) will list the bullet diameters that the sabot can handle.

Tom