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Oregon muzzleloader requirements
I plan to hunt deer in Oregon this fall and being new to muzzleloader hunting have some questions. I would like to use an inline muzzleloader and Oregon laws are as follows:
Iron or peep sights only Round or conical bullets only Open ignition system No 209 primers Does anyone know of a manufacturer that makes a muzzleloader that meets those requirements? Thanks in advance |
RE: Oregon muzzleloader requirements
Yes, the TC Black Diamond suggest the XR model. Lee
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RE: Oregon muzzleloader requirements
Or the White Ultra Mag.
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RE: Oregon muzzleloader requirements
ORIGINAL: silverstreak I plan to hunt deer in Oregon this fall and being new to muzzleloader hunting have some questions. I would like to use an inline muzzleloader and Oregon laws are as follows: Iron or peep sights only Round or conical bullets only Open ignition system No 209 primers Does anyone know of a manufacturer that makes a muzzleloader that meets those requirements? Thanks in advance So Oregon does not allow all lead projectiles, and they must be conicals or roundball. That's interesting. If they allowed lead projectiles in sabots then there is the Buffalo Bullet and the Dead Center line of bullets that out of the Black Diamond will really get the job done on any animal... |
RE: Oregon muzzleloader requirements
I am pretty sure you can use the 209 primers. It just has to be exposed. I'll double check that. I use a black diamond w/the XS ghost ring sights. I really like those sights. What unit are going to put in for?
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RE: Oregon muzzleloader requirements
I just looked in the reg's again and it says that it's illeagal to use "centerfire primers". The 209 is a shotgun primer so I assume it's OK.
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RE: Oregon muzzleloader requirements
Hi gandilamont,
I have land owner tags for 171m which is the Juniper area and just west of the town of French Glen. Do you know that area and if you do, what do you think of it for the late muzzleloader hunt. We hunted that general area last year in the regular rifle season and did good but I don't know if the deer move out of that high desert area later like they sometimes do. As far as using the 209 primer, you are right. I have read Fish and Wildlife muzzleloader regulations review several times now. Regarding lock and ignition types it says: Onlythree states specifically restrict lock type, Massachusetts and Oregon require open ignition systems and Pennsylvania only allows flintlocks. Eight states prohibit the use of centerfire primers. Oregon and Massachusetts do not specifically prohibit use of centerfire primes but they are typically excluded because most firearms that utilize them are considered to have closed ignitions. Those are the exact words taken from their muzzleloader regulations review. Now does that mean that if I purchase a muzzleloader such as TC Black Diamond or White Ultra Mag, which are both considered open ignition rifles, I can legally use the 209 primer. Since I am new to muzzleloader hunting, can you tell me if there is any advantage in using a 209 primer? Is it because it cannot get wet and misfire? Anyone with answers to these questions please feel free to chime in. Thanks in advance |
RE: Oregon muzzleloader requirements
silverstreak
I am in Idaho and Idaho is one of the states that still does not allow 209 ignition. Reading your regulation which is sort of the typical regulation - The ignition system must be open to the elements. Using a 209 reduces, somewhat, the chances of the weather contamination of the ignition system. The 209 also providesa hotter ingnition temperature that last longer than any cap ignition, therefor it is considered a more reliable system with substitute powders Those are the exact words taken from their muzzleloader regulations review. Now does that mean that if I purchase a muzzleloader such as TC Black Diamond or White Ultra Mag, which are both considered open ignition rifles, I can legally use the 209 primer. |
RE: Oregon muzzleloader requirements
I don't think I would interpret Oregon rules to include 209 primers (nor Idaho rules) but that is no great loss, IMHO. The use of 209 primers primarily came about because of the development of pellets and their being harder to ignite. A great deal of effort and innovation has been shown in trying to REDUCE the flame from 209s.
For my use, the RWS 1075 caps have proven equally reliable and produce great results. My most accurate rifles use the caps.A properly installed #11 cap makes a very good moisture seal. Damp powder would be much more a problem. I truly like the Whites and recommend all but the Thunderbolt model. The Ultra Mags are a great value, again IMHO. But if you want to buy a Black Diamond, I've not read too many negativesabout those. Mostly they are reputed to be very good rifles. The QLA section of the TC barrels can make conical accuracy an "iffy" thing though. Many TC barrels shoot much better with the QLA removed. Still want a Black Diamond? If so, check with [email protected] (.50 blue/camo for $145, XR .45 blue/black for $135, XR .45 SS/black for $155). |
RE: Oregon muzzleloader requirements
silverstreak
Muzzleloader [ul][*]Scopes (permanent and detachable), fiber optics sights, sights that use artificial light or energy, and sights that enhance, gather, or concentrate natural light are not allowed during muzzleloader-only seasons and 600 series hunts where there is a weapon restriction of shotgun/muzzleloader only or archery/muzzleloader only. Open and peep sights made from alloys, plastic, or other materials that do not have the properties described above are legal sights.[*]It is illegal to hunt with jacketed bullets, sabots, and bullets with plastic or synthetic bases during muzzleloader-only seasons and 600 series hunts where there is a weapon restriction of shotgun/muzzleloader only or archery/muzzleloader only. Round balls and conical lead or lead alloy bullets with a length that does not exceed twice the diameter, and cloth, paper or felt patches are allowed.[*]It is illegal to hunt with centerfire primers as an ignition source during muzzleloader-only seasons and 600 series hunts where there is a weapon restriction of shotgun/muzzleloader only or archery/muzzleloader only.[*]It is illegal to hunt with pelletized powders or propellants during muzzleloader-only seasons and 600 series hunts where there is a weapon restriction of shotgun/muzzleloader only or archery/muzzleloader only. Granular (loose) black powder and black powder substitutes are the only legal propellants during muzzleloader-only seasons and 600 series hunts where there is a weapon restriction of shotgun/muzzleloader only or archery/muzzleloader only.[*]No other firearm may be used for hunting during a muzzleloader-only season (See definition page 10 or regulations book).[*]Muzzleloading firearms with revolving actions are prohibited during muzzleloader-only seasons and 600 series hunts where there is a weapon restriction of shotgun/muzzleloader only or archery/muzzleloader only. [/ul] |
RE: Oregon muzzleloader requirements
Your right, I just checked w/fish & game and they are NOT LEAGLE. They should make that more clear. A lot of those rangers are A-Holes too and they love to right tickets. Back to percussion caps.
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RE: Oregon muzzleloader requirements
I just got off the phone with Oregon Fish and Wildlife and the officer I talked to said 209 primers are NOT legal. Only #11 and musket caps are legal. Since I'm new to muzzleloading hunting, is that a big deal?
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RE: Oregon muzzleloader requirements
silverstreak
My first reaction is "actually no!" It does mean you will need to be a little more careful of contaminating your cap or powder. I would recommned that you use Dymite Nobel #1075 plus - this a #11 magnumcap thatwill give you reliable ignition. If you have not purchased a gun yet you might get an opinion from Underclocked and Cayugad on the White Ultra Mag. I have not got mine yet so I do not qualify. I am not a real fan of the Black Diamond, although it is a good gun - I beleive it has some maintenance problems. Another thought if you can not use scopes would you might be interested in a more traditional style gun? I hunt all year now with a ML now so I really want an inline for regular rifle season but I do switch back to a sidehammer for ML season here in Idaho. I find the operation and maintenance of a sidehammer much less complex than a inline - just me - other will differ. Good luck in your search - where are you in Oregon? |
RE: Oregon muzzleloader requirements
Reference the Black Diamond XR... I have shot hundreds of rounds through mine. It is just hands down, a great shooting rifle. It is also a dirty fowling rifle, but that's all part of the game to me. The only time you need to break them down is if you're sitting on the range and have shot about twenty rounds through the thing. They striker and breech area will fowl bad, and slow down if not even stop. So you pull the striker, wipe it clean, check the breech plug since you have the rifle open so nice, wipe out the breech area, and you're good to go for another twenty rounds.
I do check the breech plugs on all my rifles every 10 shots. I just give them a little twist. Just to make sure they are not seizing up. Also like Sabotloader was saying, don't overlook sidelock rifles. Especially in your case. Get a large caliber like a 54 or bigger and shoot roundball or conicals. It is all you would need for deer or elk. Lyman makes a Great Plains Hunter model with a 1-32 twist that should be an excellent conical shooter. I have a Lyman Trade rifle with a 1-48 twist and it will shoot powerbelts excellent actually. Also it does real well with maxiball and roundball. Thompson Center makes some great sidelock rifles also. My .54 caliber Renegades, there is not a bad shooting rifle in all four of them... |
RE: Oregon muzzleloader requirements
cayugad
Reference the Black Diamond XR... I have shot hundreds of rounds through mine. It is just hands down, a great shooting rifle. It is also a dirty fowling rifle, but that's all part of the game to me. The only time you need to break them down is if you're sitting on the range and have shot about twenty rounds through the thing. I know there are cleaner guns out there - just getting one with a plain old #11 ignition system is getting difficult to find these days. I am trying hard not to dig the whole anydeeper. |
RE: Oregon muzzleloader requirements
Sabotloader, I am hunting the south eastern part of Oregon about 100 miles north of the Nevada line and 80 miles west of Idaho line, just west of the Steens Mountains in the Juniper Area.
Thanks a lot to all for the great information, it is truly appreciated being new to muzzleloading. After all the research I have done I think I will go with the White Ultramag. Can anyone tell me where I can buy one and who is giving the best deal. I have called a few gun dealers here in California and noone is able to get one. Is this a new model for White? |
RE: Oregon muzzleloader requirements
:D The White Ultra Mag was made for Sportsman's Warehouse (Sporting good chain). You can only get one at a Sportsman's Warehouse I believe. Ask Underclocked. He seems to know every store that sells them and what they have in stock.. :D
They are made by White Rifle. They are a .504 caliber and made to shoot conicals. I think you will really like the rifle. And Sabotloader, I was not jumping on you for your statements. I was only giving anyone intersted in the Black Diamond XR a fair understanding. The rifle does fowl. So do all of them. Once you learn how to care for any of the rifles we own, they really are not a problem. I think his choice of an Ultra Mag is a good choice. If I lived in an area where you had to shoot conicals and needed a #11 or musket ignition, this would be the rifle I would choose also. |
RE: Oregon muzzleloader requirements
silverstreak
I just bought mine at Sportsman Warehouse in Twin Falls, ID. (208) 737-9900 - $299.00 I got one - Stainless Steel with the laminate wood stock. I think he still has some left. He does not haveany synthetic stocks left. Phoenix, Az has one synthetic stainless steel Ultra Mag left $299.00 and at least one laminate but they want $359 for the laminate - they have not got the word yet down there about the $299.00 price. I e-mailed Doc White the other night to ask him a question about his Whites - he responded back that evening really surprised me. If you do not find one at these places with a gun let me know Underclocked sent me some other locations - I am sure I can find the e-mail I am originally from Boise - if south eastern Oregon is like Owyhee County in south west Idaho you got some serious hunting in front of you. Those deer will be muleys won't they. We used to hunt those southern Idaho jack-rabbits all the time. I love to watch them bounce and then tell some rookie - shoot one - shoot it in between bounces... it really is a hoot. |
RE: Oregon muzzleloader requirements
sabotloader and cayugad,
We are hunting mule deer in south eastern Oregon. This area is high desert with very few trees and a lot of rim rock. I ordered my White Ultra Mag today from Provo, Utah. I got the laminated stock for $299. Am I better off using the #11 cap or the musket cap? What powder should I be using and how much? How about bullet weight? Any info would be appreciated. |
RE: Oregon muzzleloader requirements
I personally and shooting 90 grains of Goex 3f - a 1/16th fiber wad - and a 460 grain No Excuse conical. Talk about THUMP!! wait until you shoot it. Underclocked can give you more information. Also you need to visit a forum full of White shooters.. they are a lot of fun.
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RE: Oregon muzzleloader requirements
silverstreak
I really believe that the number 11 mag cap is the better of the two caps. And the best of the #11 caps are Dymite Noble 1075 plus caps. Any of the percussion caps are susceptible to water and according to our rules and Oregons rules you have to have an exposed breech. There are things you can do to prevent the cap and the barrel from getting wet - so if you are goingto be hunting in foul weather you will need to look into those little tricks... I use a couple of wraps of a plastic wrapping tape around the breech and a muzzle mitt on the barrel. In Idaho we can use sabots but reading your rules I see that you can not. So your bullet choice is going to be your biggest choice... and in that choice i would probably go the opposit direction of a lot of others. Instead of choosing a big heavy lead conical I would be looking for a light quick modern looking full bore conical. PR bullets may be your best bet there. To many years of centerfire shooting has lead me down the path of a quick flat shooting bullet. I am really looking at shooting a 200 grain 10mm XTP this year during deer season. Check these projectiles out... http://www.prbullet.com/ul50.htm This is the home site: http://www.prbullet.com/index.htm I am shooting Triple Seven 2f powder in my inlines - out here, in the west,I do not think you will find to many options that other peole have like APP, Shockeys, or Goex. I am thinking if you go to a major sporting goods/hunting store in your area they will have some sort of selection of the ML bullets that most hunter in Oregon are using. When you get yours and start using it keep coming back sounds like you and I might be working up loads and bullets at the same time. have fun... |
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