bdeather

Well the white was on layaway less than 2 days. I put it on Wednesday night and picked it up on Friday morning. So much for patience. I ended getting the composite stock even though I first put the laminate on layaway. I'm worse than my wife trying to make up my mind about which one to get. Well I took it out today and shot the beauty. Are these things for real? I shot 14 times and never cleaned between shots. I shotsome of the conicals that came with it and some of the 460 grain hornandy great plains. It started out shooting low and tothe right at 25 yards. After the right adjustments I moved it back to the fifty and could cover 8 shots with a silver dollar. This was with open sites. I could never do that with myOptima, Black Diamond or Apex even though these are all excellent shooters with the plastic. Do I dare put plastic down my beloved barrel? What do you guys think? If I would have bought this rifle first I wonder if I would have purchased the others. Of course I would have I love to shoot the smoke poles. Again many thanks to cayugad and Underclocked. Any suggestions or tips for this gun would be welcomed.

cayugad

They are really something when you start shooting them. No swabbing, and they clean nice and easy. Sounds like you have a real good shooter. What kind of powder and charge were you using with the Great Plains Conicals..

Good luck with your rifle. Have fun shooting it. I sure an having fun shooting mine.

sabotloader

bdeather

All I can tell is that they will shoot the plastic - better than you can ever imagine until you see it for yourself.

It really makes you wonder why I need all these other ML's that I have and why did not I find this sooner - you can not imagine the money it would have saved me...

bdeather

cayugad I was shootin 70grns of triple seven 2f, does this sound about right? Will this have the energy to put down these elk here in Utah? Sabotloader my favorite bullet with the plastic is the hornandy XTP mags452 300 grainer with the knight high pressure sabots and the harvester sabots along with the speer gold dots 300 grain also the 452 do you guys think these will group good and also how muchpowder should I start out with these two bullets?

cayugad

I have no experience with large conicals and elk. I've shot a lot of deer with conicals and 80 grains of powder and dropped them where they stood. If I were hunting elk I would try and push them as hard as I could and still keep the accuracy (without hurting myself of course). Although the energy these big conicals hold is amazing to say the least.

With the sabot loads I would start them around 100 grains of powder and work from there. I was shooting my sabots with 100 grains of Triple Se7en except for the 405 grains. I shot the 300 grain Hornady XTP's with 100 grains of T-7 and they did real well. I never tried any of the Speer bullets the other day.

bdeather

cayugad did you say they make another striker for the caps that is different than the one that came with the gun? If so, how much and where do I get one? If you could please list phone numbers and other contact info I would really appreciate it. Do I really need one? The guy at Sportsmans Warehouse said he uses the same striker for all three ignitions and never really had a problem. Oh by the way I was shootin musket caps because I have never shot the #11 the guy at SW said I should try some#11's what is your opinion on this? Would I get less fowling with these? Are they a dependable choice like the musket and 209s? Sorry for all the questions.

sabotloader

bdeather

Do not know if you have seen these - so I'll put them here for you...



I was talking with doc on-line the other nght - he suggested this load -- 120 grains of Pyro under a 600 grain lead conical!!! Now I am a mere mortal and an old mortal at that - I can not imagine shooting that load. He goes on to say you could use a 150 grains but accuracy falls off. So my 110 grains of t7-2f pushing a 300 grain Gold Dot seems kinda puny - but that load will put a big hurt on an Elk.

cayugad

Tom at Sunrise Archery is a White Dealer and got me my parts. http://www.sunrisearchery.com/ send him an e-mail or come tothe DWB's forum and they will set you up.

Yes there is a hammer made for the musket and #11 caps. The difference is it does not have that bump in the middle of the hammer that the one you're using has. Iwas having some problems with the #11's exploding almost, and because of that chunks of the cap were getting caught in the hammer and locking it up.

Going to the #11/musket hammer, which is flat, it strikes the entire cap. It then spreads it open after the impact making it easy to remove. When I got my rifle I contacted Tom and asked him what parts I might possibly ever need. I figured should I ever need them, I have them. He suggested a spring, and a #11 breech plug/nipple. I also wanted the #11 hammer. So I ordered them through Tom and he had them shipped to my house.

Do you need them.. well it is nice to have spare parts should you ever need them. But if the rifle is working so well for you, you are a better judge of that and what you need.

I use the #11 CCI Magnum caps (only because I can not get the RWS Dynamite Noble 1075 anymore) and they worked excellent. There was no crud ring shooting Triple Se7en and the fowling was much less then with the 209 primers. You already discovered about the fact there is no swabbing the barrel between shots.

I guess I will have to try the musket caps one of these times. I have four tins of them. I think as long as your shooting loose powder the #11 caps will work just fine. But if you're having luck with the musket caps, stick with what is working for you. Musket caps are 10 times hotter then a #11 cap.

bdeather

cayugad if you dont mind me asking how much did you pay for the other hammer?

cayugad

For the hammer, another breech plug/#11 nipple, and a spare spring with shipping was around $45.00 as I remember. The breech plug as I remember was the expensive part.