Corrosion test
 

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/GunTech/NewsletterArchive.aspx?p=0&t=1&i=503

Fellow posted a link for this over on MoWhitetails and I thought it was very interesting.

Now I know why my rifles haven't a spec of rust.Must surely be because I'm crazy enough to have used WD-40 for years. I do use pressurized air to remove any excess and am careful to keep it off optics (keep it away from caps/primers too).

RE: Corrosion test
 

UC

Thanks for digging that out... That is truly interesting. There are lot of peole that have knocked WD-40... I use it all the time on my table saw, jointer table tops in the shop and have never had a problem - now I guess I know why....

What about that other product T-9, have you ever tried that one?

RE: Corrosion test
 

Hey UC,

Great information. I just bought a Marble's front sight from Brownell's, hope to get it today. Great folks,because the order was light, shipping was reduced. I don't know for sure, but I think I paid actual shipping costs.

Happy Hunting, Phil

RE: Corrosion test
 

No, haven't used the T-9 stuff at all so can't offer any observations.

Phil, another good resource for hardware "stuff", not gun stuff in particular but often a source for odd parts, springs, screws, shims, tubing, anything that might be in a major hardware store is McMaster.com . Their site is a little wormy as far as finding things but you'll get the hang of it. My orders have been shipped at actual cost andfor less than I would have expected.

RE: Corrosion test
 

really an interesting artical. I am kind of disappointed in the way my Sheath and BreakFree CLP tested though. The amazing one was WD-40. I was warned by a gunsmith years ago that as a water displacer which is what it is, it works great, but that used on firearms... over time will develop a varnish of sorts which will lead to sticky parts and bad working actions. Maybe I might have to rethink my information again.

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Cayugad, I think your gunsmith used to be right because in the early days I did get a little of that buildup. It wasn't permanent though. I've seen none of that for the last several years, maybe because the formula changed or perhaps it's because I always now use the pressurized air. Someone hunting in extreme cold weather might want to be very cautious about that and might want to consider a dry lube instead.

RE: Corrosion test
 

cayugad

Just to add I have used it for years on the steel table tops in the shop - the shop is not heated in the winter and it is really damp in there, and I have never encountered a residual... but also wax the tops when I start using the shop building cabinets, so i wipe the tops down and then apply johnson&johnson floor wax. When I am wiping them down I really do not notice a sticky substance at all.

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I always use the WD-40 on the jointer, planer, and table saws, etc in my wood working shop. I then use some Simple Green to clean them off before I use them and then spray them down again afterward. It has worked for years. I'd hate to think how old that jointer of mine is and still no rust. It is one of those Sears & Roebuck fully constructedcast iron models with four blades, and if you want to move it you better eat your Wheaties...:D

RE: Corrosion test
 

cayugad

Ditto - same routine here - it works....

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we stopped using wd-40 at work. over time it evaporates and rust forms. i was really shocked that it did that good.i hate it because i did see rust on things at work.i think i will do a test also on the sheath vrs the wd-40.i will let all know. great info.

RE: Corrosion test
 

Deceptive test!

All the talk isabout the rifle exterior - no mention of what these samples do inside your bore.

RE: Corrosion test
 

what does wd do to blueing? anything?

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Triple Se7en

I do not see the the test that way at all. Thesepieces of bare metal, like the bore of your barrel, exposed to the conditions (atmosphere). Your bore is exposed to the atmosphere just as these metal plates were unless you are sealing both ends of the bore or putting them in a hermatic vault.

The plates were exposed as is the bore, but I assume the plates were lying flat while your bore is usually verticle.

As I have said, I have used wd-40 on the steel tops of the table saw, jointer, shaper, and other tools for years - both inside and outside - it sure has worked in the shop.

I have never stored a barrel for long periods of time withwd-40, so i can not make a comparison. My centerfires are all stored with a coating of gun grease in the bore, becauseI just do not use them anymore.The bolts have been sprayed withRem-oil - but it is looking likemight be better to use wd-40.

I am surprised that Breakfree CLPdid not do better - just because itis thicker, but maybe it does not displace water that well.

RE: Corrosion test
 

QTompkins2005

I have not had a problem with any effect on blueing or paint - there was a note about it affecting some finishes - but i have not encountered that yet either. The only thing and reason I have not used it on rifles is because of the everlasting smell - but in the of a ML which you clean out anyway - maybe it might work...

RE: Corrosion test
 

There is a difference to what metals will do exposed to open air versus materials sealed, air-trapped, protective-covered... etc.... etc.

Good gun oils are cheap - average shooter/hunter may use 50 cents of oil per year to properlyprotect a life-long investment-- stuff lasts for 10-15 years in application(s)&is specially formulated for your firearms.

You can purchase the WD-40.... I will pass.

RE: Corrosion test
 

I've used WD on my guns for at least 30 years and have never had a problem. I spray it on a rag and wipe the metal down, after cleaning the bore I run a damp patch through befoe storage. I'm careful not to get WD on scopes or wood. It definitly won't hurt the blueing.

RE: Corrosion test
 

It all boils down to where you store the rifle - how long before you check the bore- amount of moisture in your home -- how well you cleaned the rifle & prepared it for the oil.... plus several other I won't mention right now.

If you want to risk using a product inside your bore that states nothing about preventing rustwith firearms, then be my guest. Knock yourself out.

Also, thousands of folks have lost their bluing and/or wrecked their wood stocks trying to save 20 cents on theirbore-cleaning applications. Use the proper, specialized stuff that comes very cheap to your wallet anyways - instead of taking chances on home remedies/alternate cleaning avenues for inside your bore. I personally don't care what anyone uses outside their bore.... ie... barrel exterior. That area is not difficult to maintain.

The best test to compare an oil like Rem-Oil versus WD-40 is to spray both identical padlocks in Michigan's October - place them on the front of two sheds -- open each one during a rain in December & February -- leave it unlocked & exposed to moisture for a minute or two -- then re-padlock both locks.

When mid-April comes around, unlock both locks & see for yourself which lock will show more signs of corrosions. I will bet the house right now that it won't be the Rem-Oil lock. Both the inside of that padlock & the inside of your bore are similar... ie... closed area on one side with trapped air & moisture havens.

BTW.... I no longer use Rem-Oil on my guns. I use it on my gate & truckhinges -- use it on my garage door opener tracks & stuff like that. I never had a problem with Rem-oil on guns - I just feel other oils shoot truer on first shots.

I now use Breakfree CLP for actions & Sheath for the bore. My gun exteriors (wood & barrel) get treated with a combination of shoes/tent waterproofing spray, Ballistol andEndust furniture polish... ie... 33-33-33 mix that I concocted into an emptyWindex spray bottle.It was kind of funny because after I mixed all three & shook the bottle to mix it thoroughly, I held it away with a pair of gloves on -- not knowing what I created.

Each one of these products is a specialized protective product for different intended uses. It never sees the inside of my bores where individual, isolatedprotectants are better-served to protect an area that we cannot see into on a regular basis & with regularity when storing rifles.

I'm done preaching to the choir on this thread.
See Ya on the next thread trail here.

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Awesome UC, this site is going into the favorites.

Thanks, Phil

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I use WD 40 on all my guns, I ran a test on a cap and ball pistol I loaded all 6 cylinders put caps on and soaked it with WD 40 spraying cylinder down barrel let it soak for over a week, then tested it, guess what all 6
went off no delay.
When black powder hunting I run a patchwith WD40 on it down my loaded barrel to prevent rust.

James M

RE: Corrosion test
 

T7, have you done any such testing as you suggest? Please post the test results.

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Hey UC,

Six more posts, and you'll be a Non-typical.

I'm gonna go shoot my gun off now.

Happy Hunting, Phil

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Phil, WHUT? :D

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If I'm storing a gun long term I coat a patch with Rig and use it to coat the bore. Trip 7 I live 3 miles from the Atlantic so I think this area might be considered a high salt enviroment.

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rust prevention is such a fun subject.i always thought WD-40 contained high levels of alcohol as the ingrediant to displace water. i was thinking of going over to gander mountain and getting the teflon coat on one of my guns but im a little iffy?. my local auto paint guy said he can powder coat my barrels in any color for like 50$. one of my local gun dealers i know just uses spray paint on his pump gun barrels. he swears its the same as those camo coated barrels. there was a guy on here a couple months back giving away cans of special rust spray. i have used the can up and so far so good on everything but i need more time to see if it holds up. supposedly its the best there is. it smells kinda like apples and is non toxic i believe. this is the site www.eurekafluidfilm.com

RE: Corrosion test
 

Rich

Just with the padlocks. I had purchased both at the same time. Actually accidently left the WD-40 sitting on a wood flooring inside the first shed after locking it. I didn't want to return to my house to fetch the key - so I grabbed the Rem-Oil from the 2nd shed shelf & used it for the 2nd padlock. A few times every winter, I go into both sheds for stuff -- usually simoutaneously.

I think your posted test results are sound, I was just surprised the way they alluded any mentionto the pros&consinside the bore.

Personally, I feel the same way you do - just as the demonstration shows. WD-40 works fine in open air applications - also in closed air applications where humidity is either not present - or humidity removed by other means. If I know humidity may linger near my guns for extended periods - like when I constantly forget to dy-out my three gun safecharcoal cannisters in the oven, [X(][X(] then that's why I prefer topurchase the specialized oils instead.

============================

Phil

UC has neverforwardeda "typical" post anyways..lol:D .... so the non-typical is made-to-order.[X(]

Go shoot your gunoutdoors this time Phil....[:@]

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I'm not going to even try to guess what this means :eek:.

Happy Hunting, Phil

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I am not going to run this very long but I do know a little about lubricants and WD-40 may have done well in one specific test (which I doubt) however even if it did; WD-40 spray is 50% mineral spirits (basically paint thinner), 25% mineral oil and 25% propellant. That is not what I would recommend for long term rust prevention. I had hoped that they might have included Ballistol as it is what I use mostly since finally finding a source to purchase it. I would also recommend selecting a product that refers to rust prevention on firearms. WD-40 does not even call itself a lubricant much less a superior rust preventative on long term storage. It is a cleaner and water displacment product which I buy and use but not for rust prevention.

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Another test.

http://www.thegunzone.com/rust.html