CAYUGAD
 

I've noticed in some of your posts that you explain
how to work on getting a ML barrel into good shape.
I think it involved using some bore paste and using
about 30-40 strokes on the barrel. Forgive me I
should of paid closer attention, could you post the
information again so I can print it out? I hope this
will get my new Omega where loading the 250gr.
shockwaves will be some easier. Thanks
Danny

RE: CAYUGAD
 

ALL WE ARE GOING TO DO IS SMOOTH OUT THE RUFF SPOTS A LITTLE THIS IS NOT A LAPP. LAPPING IS AN ENTIRLY DIFFERENT PROCESS.

Lapping is a process where actual metal from the barrel is removed. This can be done using valve grinding compound or by fire lapping. Comet Scouring Powder can also be used in place of the valve grinding compound. Fire lapping is a method of taking conical bullets and using valve grinding compound as a lube. You shoot them under low powder charges, causing them to spin with the rifling in the barrel and actually remove metal. Lapping a barrel is a drastic step and should only be done if the barrel is in very ruff condition or as a last straw effort for a rifle that will not behave. Usually if the bore is real tight, then it is a process of looking for a different projectile or sabot to use in the rifle.

I like to use J-B Bore Paste. Get a patch worm, a bore brush, cleaning jag, some Scotch Brite Scouring Pads (the old worn out ones work good too), plenty of patches, some gun oil, gun solvent and a pail filled with HOTsoap water. A couple ramrods are sure helpful in this also.

Start with a clean rifle barrel and if possible remove it from the stock. Now put the cleaning jag on a ram rod and take a patch. Lightly Saturate the patch with gun oil and swab the barrel.

Now put a chunk of Scotch Brite on the patch worm. Smear a small amount of J-B Bore Paste on the scotch brite and then working in strokes from top to bottom (no scrubbing small areas unless you feel a real ruff spot) swab the barrel muzzle to breech. That equals one stroke. Every 15 strokes you add more Bore Paste to the scouring pad. I like to do three sets or 45 strokes.

After the bore paste, put the rifle in the water bath. Using a cleaning jag and patch give the barrel a good hot soap and water bath. After the water bath dunk the bore brush in the solvent you have and give the barrel at least 15 strokes. This will remove anything the water bath might have missed. Now swab out the barrel with some solvent patches.

After this, run dry patches through the barrel and it should SHINE LIKE A NEW DIME when you look through or into it. Since you have taken the inside ofthe bore back to bare metal it is very important to put a good quality gun oil back in there. I saturate the patch with oil and swab the barrel real good. Make sure you coat the entire barrel.

This J-B Bore paste is also good when you have a lead, copper or plastic build up. I will once or twice a year give the barrel a good scrub with the stuff to make sure it is nice and clean.

I hope this is what you wanted.

RE: CAYUGAD
 

YES IT WAS WHAT I WANTED & THANKS. I DID THE
COTTON BALL TEST AND I HAVE ONE PLACE IN THE
BARREL THAT HELD MORE FIBERS THAN I THINK IT
SHOULD. SO I'M GOING TO USE YOUR METHOD TO
SMOOTH OUT THE ROUGH SPOTS. THANKS AGAIN FOR
ALL THE HELP. I AM CONFIDENT THAT THIS WILL TAKE
THE ROUGH SPOTS OUT WHICH SHOULD, I HOPE HELP
ME IN FINDING THE CORRECT POWDER/BULLET COMB.
IN TURN HELPING WITH THE ACCURACY. ALSO THANKS
FOR YOUR COMMENTS ON THE RED DOT SIGHT.

DANNY

RE: CAYUGAD
 

Glad I was of some help..

RE: CAYUGAD
 

i will have to try that paste. i use steel wool 0000andwith oil. some use BON -AMI you get at grocery stores .same as comet but it does not scratch.great info.

RE: CAYUGAD
 

Thanks Cayugad,I'd never heard of that either.I made me a copy and I'll give it a try.