Am i nuts to feel like this?
 

My dad and I and a few other guys are planning a elk hunt sometime in the near future here I dont have much info on it yet. But im feeling like i have a unworthy gun to hunt out west with. Most of the guys id be going with have tika's or browning's or remingtons. The only rifle i own is a Marlin XL7 in a 30-06 with a nikon pro staff scope 3X9. Its pretty accurate ive shot it out to 300yars a few times but mostly kept my shots to a max 250yards for deer. I have alot of confidencents in this rifle. I just feel like im hunting with a toy compared to the other guys high end rifles id be hunting with. Am i nuts to feel like this?

I don't know about nuts, but your gun is just fine for hunting elk. I would worry more about getting in shape than the cost of your rifle.

My youngest son took his first deer and elk this year with a Marlin Xl7 (youth model) in 7mm-08 with a nikon prostaff 3x9. When I took both of my boys late season elk hunting I didn't even bring my elk gun a browning stainless stalker in 300 win mag. I used my boys (not that I needed one)

YES........what a rifle costs has nothing to do with it's value!!!!!!!

I wish the nicer your gear was the bigger the elk you shot, but that's not how it works...

If you have the money laying around and want a new rifle, get one, but your setup is just fine. It won't however make a monster elk walk out in front of you on your hunt in any way shape or form.

Don't think about it!
 

If you are hitting paper and your rifle is reliable, then don't worry about the label on your rifle. Of course it is nice to dream about beautiful firearms, but if you can nail an elk with 180 grains in the vitals who gives a crap about the brand of rifle.
The brand of rifle never helps you locate the critter, the most important things are conditioning and boots because those things translate to longer time in the woods. Oh yeah, one other thing elk can't read, they don't care if you have a Marlin or a Browning.

+1 LOL

"I wish the nicer your gear was the bigger the elk you shot, but that's not how it works..." Salukipv1




Elk never know how much a rifle might have cost you !


BTW - I like those new Marlins.

You don't need expensive equipment to have fun hunting elk. If you practice with your rifle, study and prepare for your hunt, work hard and keep a positive attitude while your there, you and your rifle are going to be putting an elk on the ground just a fast or faster then anybody else. Just enjoy your time in the beautiful western landscapes and have fun!!

YOu may be crazy, but your rifle will do just fine. Practice a lot, and get in good shape. Being able to cover ground and hit what you aim at will benefit you much more than any rifle you can buy. Good luck!
-Jake

Unfortunately, a lot of Americans
 

will retire, long before the rifles, because they are over weight and out of shape.

Don't try to keep with the Jones. I would not buy new rifle to hunt with Jerry Jones [Dallas cowboys owner]. If you are confident and comfortable with your 30/06 a new one is not the answer. Be yourself. Jim

The 30-06 has killed more elk than all other calibers combined! So not only is it adequate, but it is more than adequate out to 400 yards. In fact the next time I hunt elk with a rifle, I will likely take my '06 and I also own a 7mm mag and a 338 win mag. You have PLENTY of gun.

Also, ammo makes a difference. Hornady makes some ammo called superformance that ups the power of the '06 to that of a 300 win mag. Look at that ammo with the 165 gr or 180 gr interbond or GMX bullets. I like the 165 gr for power and trajectory.

Ya i think im just going to spend some money on better hunting clothing and stuff like that and just Practice alot with the rife i have. We just switched to rife where i hunt about 2 years ago so i have been a shot gunner for 11 years. The being in shape part im not to worryed about casue i race motocross and snowcorss so im pretty sure i have that covered. Its hard not to get sucked into buying lastest and greatest hunting equipment.

Skip the new rifle, and tell us what kind of binoculars you have? I'd recommend getting the best glass you can afford. Much easier to look for elk several hours a day through them if you don't get eye strain.

Find a good premium bullet that will shot well in your rifle. I prefer Barnes TSX, but there are lots of choices these days.

Boots: they can make or break an elk hunt fast. Get some and try them out. Make sure you carry a load with them. Load your backpack up with some weighs or sand, and try the boots out on a little hike.

The things to invest in that can make or break a hunt: Good boots that don't make blisters and don't let your feet get wet. Good long johns (polypropylene) that wick moisture (NEVER use cotton), good rain gear (packable is what I prefer. Wear other clothes to keep warm, just cover them with raingear when needed. A good sleeping pad (or cot) and a warm sleeping bag.

If your feet hurt, if you get cold and wet, if you are cold at night, you will be miserable.

When you put a bullet through the elks chest.....
The elk don't care if you spend $400 or $4000 for your rifle.
They don't care if you spend $20 or $60 for you ammo either.
They don't care if you are wearing jeans or the latest designer camo clothing.

What you need to care about is boots, warm clothes, socks, rain gear, binoculars, internal frame back pack, Day pack, light weight sleeping bag, sleeping pad, Ibuprofen, med kit, parachute cord, several knives, packable saw, water purification tabs, emergency blanket, two flash lights/head lamp with extra batteries, emergency fire starters, Lighter, water proof matches, SUNSCREEN, packable pots and pans, packable stove or two, toilet paper, maps of the area, camera, game bags, flo-orange flagging tape, food.

I'm sure I am missing stuff. If you google elk camp supplies or something like that you should be able to find multiple lists that people have put together.

Hydrate hydrate hydrate and then hydrate some more.

Lots of carbs and protein.

No caffeine and no alcohol.

Keep a clean change of clothes in your vehicle for the ride home.

Keep coolers locked up in the truck for transporting boned out meat.



.

I own a Marlin Xl7 in 30-06. Last time I was at the range in 2010 sighting in for elk season there were several other people there with much fancier guns. The Marlin shot as good or better than my buddy's kimber and tika light with no problem out to 200 yards. as long as you practice and the gun fits you well go for it.

Like said above the elk doesn't care what your toting around in the woods. the Marlin Xl7 is a great gun and the accu trigger type system on it allows for full trigger adjustment and you'll flench less with that type of trigger.

I was getting tight groups at 200 yards. As long as your in the pie plate an elk will be going down.

You do not need to change a thing.

You will find pleanty of thing to spend money on, before your elk hunt.
I recommend looking at good quality hunting boots, binos or a scope with better quality glass. Nothing wrong with the one you have, just another way for you to spend your money.:)

You have all the rifle you need. I would invest in some good boots and performance clothes. I don't know where you are coming from but make sure you have a warm sleeping bag.

i don't know anything about your specific rifle-scope combination. Certainly a .30-06 shooting 180 grain bullets is up to the task of hunting elk.

If your rifle shoots reasonably accurately, it will suffice. Reasonably accurate means putting 5 sequencial shots into a 1.5" diameter circle at 100 yards. Distinguish between YOUR capability and the rifle's capability. If the rifle can do that, you can kill elk with it. You may need to improve your marksmanship -- for example marksmanship from the field positions you will employ when shooting elk -- but the rifle will do the job.

I don't know anything about your scope, but I can identify the properties that you need. The scope must be free from fogging in the presence of temperature changes and a wide range of humidity. Again, distinguish between fogging INSIDE the scope (can't have that) and fogging OUTSIDE the scope (condensation on the lens -- wipe that off and you are good to go). The scope must be robust to stand up to the hammering of rifle shots. If you have had the rifle at the range enough to know whether it shoots into a 1.5" diameter circle at 100 yards, you probably know whether the scope can hold up to the shooting. Scopes that are NOT up for hammering will not shoot to the same point of aim. I had a cheap scope on an inherited rifle that had this problem, and I discovered that the whole aft portion of the scope could be readily wiggled from side to side 1/8" or more. That was NOT a good sign of mechanical integrity. Basically, if the scope is free from internal fogging and it consistently shoots to a single aim point, it will get the job done. Higher quality scopes may have advantages in lower light conditions, may have other desirable features such as adjusting magnification from long distance shooting needs (10x setting) to short distance shooting needs (3.5x setting). These are nice and useful features. But do remember that hunters long ago still managed to successfully hunt elk with scopes that were considerably lower quality than today's scopes.

Remember, the purpose of the rifle-scope is to ethically kill an elk at a reasonable hunting distance. It doesn't have to be pretty or expensive to achieve that objective. And success in hunting is more than likely going to depend more on other factors than the difference between a modest rifle-scope combination and a higher quality rifle-scope combination. For example, being in shape so you can hunt hard for 5 or 7 days in a row. For example, getting up early enough in the morning to walk in the dark to your choosen hunting spot by 30 minutes before legal shooting light. For example, by actually using your rifle-scope with skill and marksmanship when taking the shot (said in another way, people using expensive Weatherby rifles scoped with expensive Swarovsky telescopic sights are not immune from being poor marksmen and missing the shot when the 8x8 400+ monster shows up).

Good luck Ranger..Not much better than elk hunting in the mountains especially with family. 06 will work fine, it did for me. Enjoy the anticipation and preperation its all part of the experience.

As a lot of those have said an '06 is plenty of rifle. I killed my first elk with a .243. I have a stash of fine rifles in my safe but tend to go with old reliable. Winchester true Pre 64 30.06. I've killed about all a guy can kill with that thing. Also as stated, practice. Try a lot of different positions. Most anyone can sit at a bench or lay down and poke nice groups. I tend to practice kneeling, with sticks, lying on my side, standing, with a tree as a rest, and shooting up hill and down hill at extreme angles.

Good luck and most of all enjoy it.

Ya im going to start buying some premium 165's and some 180gr loads and see which loads my rifle likes. Right now i just shoot remington 150gr core loks for deer. I dont reload so ill have to buy a few different brands and give them a try. I just bought a nikon prostaff 550 laser ranger finder it says it reads from 5-500 yards. And for Binoculars i have a set of nikon trailblazers thats 10X42. Im Pretty brand loyal in optics to nikon. Thats what i have on my 3 different slug gun and they have held up to the kick of a slug gun so thats what i put on the 06.

First of all an 06 is perfect use a 180 grain remington core loct. This round is cheap and my browning a-bolt groups 2" at 100 yards. It is effective and plenty of knock down power. If you are planing an elk hunt I suggest going to my informational website. www.publiclandforthepoorman.com and you will find alot of the answers you seek there including pictures of 2 elk taken with 06. Also 300 yards is plenty of distance. Both of the elk taken with the rifels where within 80 yards and one was 30. The rest where taken with the bow and arrow, my preferd weapon.

Important to use a round that holds its shape and retains weight. I would not use a 165 grain bullet for elk. These animals are dence and thick skinned, the bigger the bullet the better. Chances are it will be 100 yards or less.

i have had to re-learn this time and time again. i always wished i would have worried less about what gear i had when i was younger, and learned and practiced harder.

if you start practicing now, and training, chances are you'll be tagged out before they will.

nothing beats confidence in your equipment, but you get that from practice, not price tag!

I'd worry more about getting a shot at an elk than what gun is making the shot. You said you have confidence and that's all that matters. If you can shoot good at 300 yds like you said you're gonna be just fine. I tell you what I've learned. A rifle, no matter how cheap or expensive is only as good as the guy shooting it. Quit worrying and go have fun! Good luck!

As long as you're confident, have practiced out to 300 yds and it's accurate, who cares what someone else "thinks of it". 90% of the success in the hunt is how the hunter prepares for and work put into the hunt to find and get into range you know you can make the shot. The shot has to be placed to make it a quick as possible kill (e.g. double lung broadside, heart). I don't care how expensive a rifle and scope you have, as long as you can prepare and make the right shot.
If some day you can find and afford another rifle you really like and will serve you well, have at it. But done be ashamed of shooting an elk or other animal with you rifle, as long as you respect it by doing the preparation for the hunting a make an ethical shot. Good hunting!
(P.S. When you bless to shoot your elk, please let us know... post a picture, if you will.) :-)

I hunt elk with a muzzleloader.

I consider a 30-06 as overkill. :fighting0007: