bugs11

Yep, based on Davis Tents recommentation, I installed the chimney damper. A little sooty to do after seasoning the stove.

Bugs.

RedRiverHntr

Biggest reason for the damper, IMHO, is to control burn rate. If you go when it's cold, not much chance of getting the tent too hot at night. But it does greatly enhance your ability to keep a fire until the wee hours. For our bunch, means you can load it up at night and still have some in the morning. Only important to me the first couple of days before season starts. After that, I am up and out in a cold tent and have no need for fire.
The spark arrestor mentioned earlier goes on the top of the pipe. Good idea if you want to save your tent and the forest around you.
And I would be careful with using coal. Depending on the "amount" of fire you have and the stove you are using, it can burn hot enough to burn through your stove. We have stoves made out of 1/8 steel plate with grates made from 5/8 sucker rods and I still wouldn't use coal in them for fear of warping. Just my .02 worth.
Choke down both the chimney and door side dampers and you can have a fire to roaring in no time in the morning.....
Mmm...I can smell smoke!!! Makes my neck swell and my tarsal glands weep a might!!!

bugs11

We're planning on taking 2-3 bags of charcoal. I've read if you load up the stove at night with charcoal, it will still have hot coals in the morning. We also plan on trucking out all our own firewood; well seasoned white oak and black locust. Regardless, I too am anxiouslylooking forward to the hunt.

Bugs.

buckwild41

Bugs,

I you realy want great control over your burn rate and even out the temp inside the tent, add a door gasket to the stove. I have both the pipe and stove dampner and although you could cut the draft back you could not throttle it down enought to last all night. Packed full of seasoned oak would last around 4-5 hours. Plus it was difficult to not be too hot or cold. Pick up a stove gasket kit from a local hardware store and install (easy). You may have to adjust the door latch slightly but its well worth it. You will get complete control over the burn and can easily get 6-8 hours out of a loaded stove. Once everyone is inside and down for the night I barely crack open the stove dampner, shut the pipe dampner almost closed and come morining there are still plenty of embers and the tent is comforatble. The best few bucks I spent last year for campt comfort. Good Luck
PS I went the coal chunck route.. Be careful it gets crazy hot and you have to clean out the stove almost daily....

EKM

If burning coal, then make sure you have a coal grate in the bottom of your stove.

RuRu12

bugs11 - Better take a chainsaw with you and plan on cutting your wood locally. A few years back I drug about half a cord of well seasoned oak to Wyoming with me hoping to avoid the chore of cutting and splitting wood. I about froze to death the first night in camp. It must be something to do with the amount of oxygen available at altitude and the density of the wood, but the oak would barely burn. I spent about half the next day cutting, hauling and splitting firewood. I stayed toasty warm the rest of the trip.

I have a cylinder stove that I use inmy 12' x 14' Montana CanvasWall Tent. I have burned charcoal in it at night and have found that it works really well. I pack the stove with about a third of a bag of Kingsford and fill the rest as tight as possible with wood. Close the air vent on the door untilit is open about1/8" and damp the stovepipe way down. You shoud stay warm and still have plenty of coals in the morning to get the stove fired up quickly.

Good luck, and have fun!

bugs11

EKM,
Stove is a cylinder stove from Davis Tents, it came with everything, including a grate.

RuRu12,
Small chainsaw is on the gear list, along with a bow saw and small axe. 1/2 cord of oak!! Holy Smokes, doubt we'll take that much.

Buckwild41
I'll think about the door seal.


Bugs.

SILVERTIP-CO

I put a barometric damper above the manual damper in my woodstove in the garage last fall. Bad idea. The stove wont draw now. Gonna take the barometric damper out and just use the manual one.

RuRu12

bugs11 - I wouldn't bother taking any oak, wasted space. The time I hauled out we were planning on supplyingtwo tents for two weeks, plus an outside campfire. If you get a really hot fire going with the local pine then the oak will burn up, but I honestly think it consumes more energy to burn it than it gives off.

RuRu12

bugs11 -If your stove pipe runs through the roof of your tent, thereis something else that I would suggest you do with your stovepipe that will help to keep water or snow from entering around the silicone ring in your stove jack. Go to your local home improvement/hardware and get a piece of all thread that is about two incheslonger than the width of your stovepipe. I used 3/8", butchoose whatever you prefer. Then with your stove installed in the tent push the tent roof up at the stove jack so that the roof is"tented up" higher than the surrounding roof and mark your pipe where it passes thru the roof.After uninstalling the pipedrill thepipe where you previously markedand install the all thread with two or three nuts on the outside of each side of the stove pipe. Reinstall the pipe. Now the all thread will raise the roof around the stove jack higher than the surrounding tent roof forcing any rain/snow to run away from the opening.