Alsatian

Take a good pair of sunglasses, lip balm/chap stick, and good boots. If there is snow of if you are around a lot of rocks the bright sun reflecting off of these surfaces will really attack your eyes. To appreciate the value of binoculars and good optics in general consider that by glassing for game you are saving yourself the trouble of a lot of walking, a lot of walking up and down some very steep terrain in many cases. This saves your body but it also saves time, and time is a limited commodity on any hunt, but perhaps especially for a first time DIY out-west-hunt.

RedRiverHntr

The swaro range finder is very nice, but unless you want to use it as your "binos" too, they are heavy when compared to the Leicas. Since you say your are doing a DIY'er, weight is very important. If you went with the swaro's, you could use them for both as they are a very clear mono. I would opt for the Leica CRF 1200's. Compact and light and very capable. You read a lot of claims, mostly from the company's themselves about what rangefinders will range. Go to Cabelas and ask their optics guy what he thinks and take several outside and see.
You be the judge.I am a Leupold guy...but in doing that very test, their offerings were eliminated. Leica, Swarovski and Nikon were the only ones to pass the "hands on" test.

As someone that has been rifle hunting in Coloarado for several years, but this year went Archery for the first time.....go light! Only pack what is absolutely necessary. Then unpack, figure out what you can do without or make do without, and then re-pack only that!

And lastly.....and this is the single most important thing you can do........
After your brother/friend has their pack ready and retired for the evening, place your adult beverage of choice in their pack. MAKE sure that you are in their vicinity bylunch so as to relieve them of their burden!!!

homers brother

Might want to think about a couple of Sherpas to go along with all of that gear.

In order:

- Ditch the shooting sticks, bipod, etc. If I've had time to set up a rest, I've used my pack. Most times, I don't have time to set up a rest. And if the pack's not stable enough, the deer's too far away in the first place.

- 3-9x Bushnell Banner. I've used a 4-12x Banner since 1985. I own a number of Leupold and Burris scopes too, and surprisingly the Banner has kept up with them. Okay, so not a flashy name, and maybe not a clear as my VariX-IIIs, but itsomehow still works.

- Range Finder, etc. The only reason I carry a light pair of binos is so that I'm not looking at what might be another hunter through the riflescope. Rangefinders are great if you're a forward observer in the Army. If you practice shooting, practice range estimation at the same time. And again, if the deer's so far away that you're not sure how far away it is, the deer's too far away in the first place.

- Sling. Practice shooting with a SHOOTING sling (even if it's just a clunky cast-off from an M1 Garand), then you're not fumbling with gadgets while your deer is running over the next ridge.

Wyoming isn't Alaska, though. Chances are, there won't be many places you'll hunt where you would need to pack a spike camp in (for deer). My standard "day rig" includes:

- 2 quarts of water
- 1 heavy-bladed hunting knife, 1 lockblade utility knife, a small whetstone
- 1 space blanket
- 550 (parachute) cord
- 1 GOOD lensatic compass and USGS TOPOGRAPHIC map.
- 1 roll of firestarter and matches (doublesas TPwhen you need it)
- Gloves and watch cap
- 1 small flashlight or headlamp. LEDs are easier on the batteries
- MAYBE: A GPS and spare batteries.
- M700 Remington, 4-12x Bushnell Banner
- 8 rounds of ammunition (including 4 in the magazine)

Clothing MUST be layered. You'll be chilled in the morning, and roasted by noon if you wear those insulated coveralls that are so great in the deer stand. Therefore, a daypack should have room enough for all those "shed" clothes. SPARE SOCKS. Worked in the military for me, still works today. A GOOD pair of broken-in boots.

Something that alarms me most about the newer generation of hunters isn't so much that they know how to use all of this technology, it's simply that there's so little understanding of the principles (contrast taking directions from a GPS versus computing them yourself from a map and then applying them to the ground with a compass).

Here's an idea we came up with in camp this year: For every dollar you spend on gear, spend a minute working out. Unless you're road hunting, you're going to need to get your cardiovascular system into shape before subjecting it to 7000-feet-plus above sea level.

oldpops

zuren1cs: I just got back from my first out of state mule deer hunt in Colorado and believe me; I did the same as you in getting advice on what equipment to take. I spent hundreds of dollars on packs, rangefinders, binoculars and shooting sticks; I was ready for any situation. I learned a big lesson with my shooting sticks and it is probably true with all your new gear. If you buy a new piece of gear, practice and become really familiar with it before you get to camp. I missed the buck of a life time because I didn't practice using my shooting sticks in a hunting situation. I had shot almost a box of shells using the sticks, but never in a hunting situation. When I came face to face with a 25"+ mulie I dropped to one knee, set up my sticks and put the crosshairs right on his shoulder. The only problem was by dropping down on one knee, a hump between the buck and I was only about an inch below my horizontal crosshair. Knowing that my bullet would come out low, I tried to adjust my sticks to clear the hump with the trajectory of the bullet. In doing so I fumbled a little and either clanked the sticks on a rock or clanked them together. Needless to say, the buck of my dreams exploded out of his bed and was headed south. Moral of the story. Don't just buy the good stuff, practice, practice, practice.

Here is a list of the gear: Rem. 700 7mm rem. mag., Leopould VX1 3-9, 10X42 binoculars, Busnell 10-30 spotting scope, Tripod, Bushnell 800 yard range finder, Stoney Point Steady sticks 39", Badlands ultra day pack, garmin legend cx gps.

Everything worked flawless except for my technique. Good luck

Pops

wyotimberghost

That's a lot of weight. The most I'd suggest carrying is 1 quart. But that's just me.

SkipD

Do yourself a favor and carry a rangefinder. If you're from MI and plan to hunt in WY, you won't be used to the WY terrain. Out west, things are much farther away from you than they seem. For example, even though I'm pretty good at judging distances here in MA, when I get out to MT elk hunting, and hunt the big open parks, I'm at a loss. With a 5-day hunt, I don't have the time to start practicing my range estimating ability.

Wolf killer

I would focus more on your clothing than your gun. Bring rain gear & wool long johns. I would not buy a spotting scope or a rangefinder for this trip. I would suggest the best binos you can afford, Leica's will last you a lifetime.

MinnFinn

This is my checklist I've used the past several Elk hunt trips in Wyoming, including the successful one we just got back from this Tues. On top of all the equipment, you really need to be looking for every opportunity to exercise in hiking, climbing stairs and other things that will get your legs, upper body and heart ready for lots and lots of climbing up and down ridges in Wyoming or other western states.
In a number of the western mountains of Wyoming they have Big predators. So, be aware, stay alert. I crossed a Mtn. Lion’s track 2/3 up a high long ridge line in the snow and heavily wooded area last Sunday. It got me looking and listening much more carefully and made me check my .44 mag Redhawk backup sidearm was in reach at my side, as I tracked Elk moving in the woods ahead of me. Fortunately, we didn’t see the owner of these tracks, for which I’m thankful.
I was surprised the first trip to hunt Elk in western WY years back that Grizzly Bears generally go into hibernation in the 2nd week of Dec. or so, much later than their black cousins here in the upper midwest. So, be aware if you’re in big bear or cat range and be very aware of your surroundings and what you’ll do, if you’d happen upon one of these large predators unexpectedly.
Have a great time preparing and hope you have a successful trip. When you get back in off the roads and start hiking on your hunt, pay attention and plan out how to getto the gameand out again safely and in daylight if possible. Warm/good support weather-proof boots, extra warm socks, GPS, rangefinder, steady stix, along with the other things I mentionI've found to be very useful. Not everything mentioned obviously is carried with you in the field, but you need to have most of this equipment or equivalent to get the job done.

This is my checklist I've used the past several Elk hunt trips in Wyoming, including the successful one we just got back from this Tues. On top of all the equipment, you really need to be looking for every opportunity to exercise in hiking, climbing stairs and other things that will get your legs, upper body and heart ready for lots and lots of climbing up and down ridges in Wyoming or other western states.
In a number of the western mountains of Wyoming they have Big predators. So, be aware, stay alert. I crossed a Mtn. Lion’s track 2/3 up a high long ridge line in the snow and heavily wooded area last Sunday. It got me looking and listening much more carefully and made me check my .44 mag Redhawk backup sidearm was in reach at my side, as I tracked Elk moving in the woods ahead of me. Fortunately, we didn’t see the owner of these tracks, for which I’m thankful.
I was surprised the first trip to hunt Elk in western WY years back that Grizzly Bears generally go into hibernation in the 2nd week of Dec. or so, much later than their black cousins here in the upper midwest. So, be aware if you’re in big bear or cat range and be very aware of your surroundings and what you’ll do, if you’d happen upon one of these large predators unexpectedly.
Have a great time preparing and hope you have a successful trip. When you get back in off the roads and start hiking on your hunt, pay attention and plan out how to getto the gameand out again safely and in daylight if possible. Warm/good support weather-proof boots, extra warm socks, GPS, rangefinder, steady stix, along with the other things I mentionI've found to be very useful. Not everything mentioned obviously is carried with you in the field, but you need to have most of this equipment or equivalent to get the job done.





Elk (Big Game) Hunt Checklist






Checklist Items


Comments



Equipment






Rifle(s) sighted in just before trip


Know the distance rifle/ammo zeroed at (e.g 200 yds.) and inches drop per 100 yds. beyond zero range.



Rifle(s) packed


With rifle ammo clips if needed



Ammunition packed (verify correct caliber and grain bullet for game)


With extra box in case you need to resight at destination, if needed



Compass


Be sure it's in your pocket or packsack not back in the motel room. Verify it’s working before heading out.



Elk cow call (if hunting Elk)


Very useful to lowering the Elk apprehension, if they hear and haven’t smelled you before and after you get a shot off.



GPS (recommended for off road)


With refresh batteries installed and extra along. Practice using GPS before the trip setting and finding waypoints. Download detailed topo map of area hunting in and surrounding areas.



Knives (skinning and boning)


Sharpen



Knife - Multi-tool (e.g. Leatherman)


useful for using as pliers, screw-driver, bone saw in a pinch, can opener, extra knife.



Wet stone or other ceramic knife sharpener


You'll need to be able to sharpen in the field, too.



Flashlight(s) (working w\ extra batteries of the right size)


With refresh batteries installed. AA for pack, D cell size for vehicle.



Butane lighter(s) and/or waterproof matches or strike anywhere matches in waterproof container. And/or flint stick to strike with steel as fire starter.


In zippered pocket of clothing that'll be worn in the field.



Shooting stix


For resting rifle on longer shoots



Binoculars


clean lenses



Cover for scope and binoculars


Riding or walking in blowing snow/dust can coat your optics without them covered without time to clean when a shot presents itself.



Lens cleaning cloth


Micro fiber cloth made for cleaning optics (binoculars, scope, glasses) without scratching likely needed at some point in the hunt.



Collapsing bone (limb) saw or small axe


Use to split bone (pelvis and rib cage) in the field, so the animal will cool off quicker better keeping.



Kleenex and/or toilette paper


For the obvious use and good dry material for starting fire in the field, if needed.



Heavy-duty (nylon) rope (100 ft. or more)


Heavy enough to drag and hang game with and tie down equipment or use for building temp. shelter if need be.



2-way radios tuned to the same channel / side channel w\ fresh batteries


Extra batteries. Test them before heading out to field.



Cell phone / w\ charger


Don't depend upon cell coverage in the field, but take along in a button/zippered inner pocket in case you do have coverage and is needed.



Basic Toolbox (wrenches) in vehicle for repairs






Vehicle basic maintenance done


Oil changed, engine tuned, spare tire inflated, anti-freeze adequate level…



ATV / snowmobile maintenance done (if taking)


Checked to see they run and tuning for correct altitude done, if needed.



Tie downs for equipment






Hoist / gambrel


to hang game



Emergency thermal space blanket


To help retain heat if you need to remain in the field overnight rather than trying to find your way out in the dark.



First Aid kit


Basic first aid items to treat / dress minor cuts, aches, etc.



Clean Canteen or water bottle


(filled with fresh clean water daily)



Hunting pack sack or butt pack for carrying equipment in the field


easier to carry rope, saw, extra things you need in than in all your coat pockets.



Game pack(s) (e.g. Duluth pack or frame) or 2 wheeled game hauler (HD cart)


This was invaluable in our most recent Elk hunt in WY. We got 2 Elk out from 3.5 miles in in ½ a day, which would have taken a 1-1.5 days otherwise.



Rubber gloves for field dressing / boning game






Game bags to put meat in that's boned or cut up.


May be able to buy at destination to save room.



Canteen cup or lightweight metal cup


Use to melt snow, boil and drink water from, if you'd run out of bottled water in the field.



Spare vehicles keys


Put in separate location (e.g. billfold or give to other hunter) in case you'd loose the originals. Put original keys in zippered inner coat pocket and check before locking vehicle each time.



Pepper Spray canister or large caliber sidearm w\ ammo (e.g. .44 Mag)


If in large predators country, second way to deter large predators. (WY has Grizzly Bears, Mtn Loins and Gray Wolves) Grizzly Bears start to hibernate in mid-Dec.



Waterless hand cleanser


To help clean up after field dressing animal and also can be used as fire starter.



Rangefinder (recommended)


With refresh batteries installed and extra along. Practice using before the trip. Distances in the mountains are very hard to judge without much experience.



Reading glasses (optional)


if needed to read anything on field equipment / maps



Documents / Misc. Info.






License(s) required packed


Sign only the part of the license it says to sign before going to the field and leave the other "sign" lines blank until it tells you when to sign.



Topo Map (detailed) of hunting area


Either waterproof map or put in waterproof envelope / Ziploc bag C40of some sort



Permissions slips from landowners


Sign and carry with you at all times. Post on the rearview mirror the slip it says to do so. (WY has Walk-in and Hunter Management Areas permission online in many zones)



Bring key contact names and phone numbers needed at destination.


For making contacts where you're hunting and if needed contact back home.



Leave phone numbers / contact info at home / work of motel, hunt plans (dates returning), etc.






Credit card(s), Auto club card, cash card


Housing / unexpected costs / fuel



Directions to roads from hunting area


Should know even without a map the directions and approximate distance to roads from area hunting.



Leave information at motel of area hunting each day.


In case someone needs to find you, leave a written note or basic map showing where you're planning to hunt each day.



Cards with name / address / phone


business cards can be useful to leave with people you meet for permission to hunt or future contacts.



Adequate cash


(plus something extra) for meals and misc. daily costs, fuel



Clothing Packed






Warm Hunting Pants / overalls






Thermal and regular underwear / T-shirts






Warm hunting Shirts






Warm socks (plenty)


wool or polypropylene outer and lighter inner socks. Extra pair of socks in your pack in case others get wet.



Waterproof, insulated hunting/hiking boots


Make sure they are boots that have good support and are comfortable to walk in all types of terrain.



Warm caps


blaze orange and other



Warm outer coat / jacket






Mid-layer fleece shirt / jacket






Blaze orange vest or sweatshirt






Warm hunting gloves / grommet mitts


Ones you can shoot without taking off and keep your hands warm in.



Gators (optional) for walking in deep snow.






Food






Candy bars






Trail mix / dried fruit






Bottled water

zuren1cs

Sorry I haven't posted in a while; I got caught up with the holiday chaos but did end up taking a large doe in MI during the season up there.

This is great info!!!! Everyone brings up some very good points and I will be adjusting my packing list and "To Do's".

On the subject of footwear, that is something all of us in the group are wondering about. We haven't put in for the draw yet, but we are focusing our attention in a large radius around Newcastle. This is what I have are far as footwear:

- La Sportiva heavy backpacking boots (~8" tall, waterproof, non-insulated)

- Asolo hiking boots (Lighter duty than the boots above - have worn them snowshoeing in the Sierra Nevada, ~6" tall, Goretex, non-insulated)

- Wolverine hunting boots (12"+ tall, Goretex, 400g Thinsulate, not the best ankle support but I have ankle braces for sports that I can wear in the boots)

Do I need another pair of boots or do I have my bases covered? All of us were looking at the Cabelas Outfitter Series of boots as I owned the 6" uninsulated model for 10+ years and loved them. I have more footwear than my hunting partners, so they will definitely need to begin shopping around. We're prepared to bring a couple pairs of footwear as we've seen that the temps. can range from the 60s to below zero and clear/sunny to inches of snow. Any comments on this topic are welcomed!

Thanks!

rbullom

Insulated 400 - 600 gram, waterproof for October & November. I bring a back up pair that will get me by for a day if I need to dry them out. But rarely over the years have I needed them. Probably can get by with on good pair. I have a pair of Cabela's Outfitter's series that are made by Danner in the 600 gram weight with the dimple sole. Used these boots for 9 years and still love them. I live in the Colorado Mountains and use these boots from late september archery until the late cow hunts in December when it gets to -10 and sometimes -20 without a consern. The dimple sole is by far the best I've worn in the mountains for self cleaning and holding on the side hill in snow and mud.