You should use even tiller as a starting point, but your final tiller setting depends entirely on how you grip the bow. Tiller will be different for someone how puts a lot of grip pressure into the throat of the grip than it will be for someone who puts a lot of heel pressure into the grip. The reason? The limbs will have different loads put on them.
There are some who'll fine tune their bows by fiddling with tiller and shooting long range. I don't put much stock into that. All I want tiller to do for me is keep my bow riding level in my hand, all the way through the draw cycle. If it rides level throughout the draw, I reckon it'll do the same through the shot cycle.
I can tell a big difference in feel - shock, recoil - between a bow I've tuned to my grip and one that I haven't. With one I've tuned, my aim is steadier so my accuracy is improved.
The way I recommend doing this is to get in front of your target, load an arrow, hold the bow out with the pin on the target and slowly draw the bow straight back. (Your grip, stance and everything should be just like you always shoot. Only difference is you probably don't usually put the pin on target and keep it there while drawing.) Pay attention to the pin. If it tries to pull UP, the top limb is too strong. Take weight off the top limb or add weight to the bottom limb. If it tries to pull DOWN, the bottom limb is too strong. Take weight off the bottom limb or add weight to the top.
Keep adjusting until the pin stays level all the way to your anchor.
And keep your finger behind the trigger! You don't want to accidently bump that sucker and bust yourself in the pie hole while trying to tune your bow!
Once you get the tiller set, you might have to readjust your nockset.