Have you tuned your broadheads? Especially since you're shooting helical vanes, balancing your broadheads is quite important if you expect your Bh's to fly to the same POI as your FP's.
Did you do any tweaking to your rest to ensure perfect POI matching for your Bh's and FP's?
What type of accuracy (precision rather) are you talking about with your FP's? With your BH's? At what ranges, of course...
If you increase your poundage and you have a fletching stabilization problem, then having the increased tail drag on your arrow will help. Drag varies with the square of velocity, i.e. double your speed, quadruple your drag. Fd = f(v^2).
What is your FOC for your arrows? Adding 1.5-2" of overall shaft length can sometimes push an arrow over the tipping point for stable flight.
Watch your back as you increase poundage up to 65lbs with your 5575's before hunting season. With a fairly fast bow like the Charger (325fps IBO), you may run into arrow stiffness issues and start getting some whip that you can't tune out. For bows over 300fps, I almost always go one shaft stiffness higher than what the charts read. The consequence of shooting too stiff of arrow is almost nothing. The consequence of shooting a borderline, or too limp of arrow is poor flight, wasted energy, degraded accuracy, and decreased functional range (read: killing range). Unless you're shooting a super short arrow, the 5575's will likely be too limp for your bow - by too short, I mean somewhere in the 26" range. Short arrows, or rather short draw length shooters have the advantage that a short arrow has a higher relative stiffness, and their short draws sacrifice a lot of speed/energy, so shorter shooters can shoot a 'softer spine' for the same poundage compared to a longer draw shooter, but if you're shooting 65yrds and having issues at 56#, I'm prone to assume you are NOT shooting a super short draw.