Velocity isn't important in the sense of duplicating what you see in the manual. While numbers representing "average fps" might be good if you're building yourself a trajectory chart from an exterior ballistics program, the numbers you should most be concerned with are in regard to the statistics associated with that average.

Basically, your groups won't be good if you have inconsistencies in velocity from shot-to-shot with your ammunition, even if you apply the "8 Steady Hold Factors" perfectly every shot. If you can't apply those hold factors, inconsistent ammunition will make poor groups even worse.

Just for illustration, when I started using a chronograph, I tested it using a load I'd worked up for .223 some years before. Although its average came close to what I'd intended it to from the manual (3000 fps), its standard deviation was 39.6 fps. I also chrono'ed some factory loads at about the same time. Those indicated a standard deviation of 19.9 fps. Though an apples-to-oranges comparison then, it demonstrated to me that I needed to raise the bar a bit on what I would view "acceptable" in terms of shot-to-shot variance. As a sidenote, the factory loads also "shot better" in my rifle (1-1/4" reloads versus 1/2" factory loads from a benchrest).

The first thing I did was to check my powder measure. I found it wasn't exactly throwing correct charges, in many cases as much as 0.2 grains off. I added a baffle and started weighing charges individually, trickling the last 0.2 grains into the pan. I went back to the range with the chronograph and that action ALONE reduced the standard deviation to 27.8 fps and brought the load to ALMOST shoot as well as those factory loads did (5/8" reloads versus 1/2" factory loads from a benchrest).

Given I was using these on coyotes, I was satisfied with the reloads at that point. I spent a day over a prairie dog town though not long afterward and found that even those 1/2" factory loads weren't consistently accurate enough on dogs beyond 300 yards. Back to the reloading press.

Paying close attention to case consistency, length, powder charge, using BR4 primers, using a Stoney Point (Hornady today) OAL gauge and also a Hornady Comparator, checking for runout, the current lot I'm using turns in a standard deviation of 12.5 fps - better than the original control set factory loads. These are "cloverleaf accurate" - 0.19" center-to-center for three shots at 100 yards from a benchrest.

Had I NOT had a chronograph and the ability to compare that first lot of reloads against a lot of factory loads, I wouldn't have known to look for problems within my equipment or reloading processes. Instead, I'd just have assumed that my rifle "didn't like" that load, and would've kept fooling with new ones trying to tune something I'd never be able to quantify or validate other than on paper and potentially influenced by other factors (tired eyes, haze, etc.)

For hunting purposes, you don't need to change your brass. If all you're hunting is big game, even a 1" group is acceptable. If you still can't justify a chronograph, borrow or rent one. Put your reloads up against factory loads or even another lot of reloads and run them through the chrono, see which lot prints better groups, and then compare the data for each from the chronograph.