davepjr71

I'd like to expand and clarify why it would be easier to do what I've stated. This works for sights with gang adjustment and is much easier than starting with the 20 yd pin close up. Why? If you sight in the 20 yd pin first at close range youwill be re sighting as you move back to 20 yds. Furthermore, if the bow is not tuned you will be re sighting after tuning. You also have the possibility of being way off the target or even missing it at 10 yds if the sight is way off and you will get frustrated and ticked off very fast.

So you take a new bow. First make sure your tuning is close using paper. While I'm not a paper tuning guy it is a good way to at least get a bow close before proper tuning (walk back or French tuning). If your tuning is off and you sight in a bow you will be re sighting it later on.

Then use either a sight tape or something from a website and set the pin gaps based on your bow's speed.

Then sight in either the 50 yd pin (or 40 of that's the furtherest you have) at 3-4 yds by using the gang adjustment on the rest.
This serves 2 purposes.First, you are close to the target and will be able to get zeroed in easily and quickly. Second, you are getting the bow ready for proper tuning. You want to be hitting an eraser sized target at this range.

If you've used a sight tape the rest of your pins will be very close. You can now go to 20 yds and I'd bet that bow will not be off more than 2 inches max and you can now easily perform individual minor vertical adjustments on each pin.

Now you can tune the bow with either walk back or French tuning and be done with all of that in a lot less timethen it would take to start with the 20.