RE: Stupid question about DL
No that isn't a stupid question at all.
There are two things you are going to need to do.
First, forgive my memory but I think your bow has modules that you can switch out. You should have been given a set of three with the bow (one on the bow, two in a small zip lock bag). The module is a part of the cam that will control/change exactly where along the draw cycle the peak weight of the bow is applied and where the weight lets off.
Take a look at your bow. You should see on your bottom cam where there is a part that has two or three allen head screws going through it.... kinda looks like an egg on top and a puzzle piece on the bottom. That is your module. It should have two letters and two numbers on it... say something like DS 5.0 or something like that. That number corresponds with the the draw length. In order to go shorter, most diamonds I believe are the higher the number, the shorter the draw... so if for example a 5 is to long... you'd need a 6.
What you need to do is remove that mod with your allen key set. It can be tricky to get at those screws sometimes because the cables or even the limbs can block access to the screw heads. You can clear a path to them easiest by using a press... which you obviously don't have access too... but there is another way. All you need to do is rotate the cam just enough to allow the head of that screw to come clear... take something hard but BLUNT (if its sharp it will cut your string!!!) such as a peanut butter jar or a small plastic storage container and prop it between your string and cables... that will rotate the mod enough to give you access to the screws and still leave you with two free working hands. You might have to expirament with different objects that will work as a prop.... our shop has a couple of 1x1 wood blocks with notches cut in them that we use. Then all you have to do is remove the screws... mind which direction the module comes out.... it can be confusing trying to put it back in. Thats the complicated part... but none the less you are halfway home.
Next, you'll notice the draw stop stud that is on your bottom cam.... the big rubber plunger with the allen screw in the center. It rides on a track with hash marks numbered 1 - 10. Since you module has changed where the bow's weight lets off... now you want to shorten where the cam rotation stops. You don't need to move it much... just a half a hash mark or so closer to the #1. Make sure you tighten it down.
Nock and arrow and draw.... you should notice the immediate difference... however, you are probably going to have to fine tune your draw stop stud. You can increase or decrease the amount of let-off you have by moving the stud forward or back in TINY increments.
Do note this though.... make SURE that the stud is making contact with the limb!!! If not then your cable is what is stopping the draw cycle... and its the edge of the mod that is hitting it. Its a good way to cut your serving.. and if you pull hard through the wall you can even have your cable skip the cam track and seriously put yourself out of business for a while.
I'm sorry that this is kinda longwinded, but I thought you might like to know very specifically how to go about it.... also what to watch for and avoid so you don't damage your bow. If there is no shop nearby... then you really have to tread extra careful. If you are confused or need any help... shoot me a PM... I'll walk you through it.... its really pretty easy.