Yes that is the correct length for that arrow or pretty close anyway. According to Easton your arrow should be 1 inch in front of where it contacts your rest. And if the rest is set up in correctly in the most forgiving position it will be right over your grip. The same point you would measure brace height and true draw from. AMO draw length is 1.75 inches past this point. So take your true draw and add one inch to it, or just subtract 3/4" from your amo draw, that is the proper length for your arrow.

It really does not matter though, as long as the arrow is spined correctly. The longer the arrow, the weaker the spine. The shorter the arrow, the stiffer the spine. It used to be short arrows and overdraws were all the rage. By using a shorter arrow it would make your arrow stiffer letting you drop to a different spine class, usually a lighter arrow. And since the arrow it's self would be smaller it would have less mass. Lighter arrows are faster, and speed is inticing. Now with the newer lighter carbon arrows overdraws are not really needed. If you want a lighter arrow, just get a lighter arrow. Don't bother with the overdraw and sacrifice a forgiving set up. Speed does not do you much good if you can't shoot consistantly.

Absolutely nothing wrong with a longer arrow as long is spines right, you would just be shooting more weight than you needed to, and the longer the arrow the harder it is to get a higher FOC. I think it used to be arrows extended past your risor because the risors did not have sufficient cut outs in the risor to permit broad head clearance, or did not have large enough shelfs for safety. Those problems have been solved on the newer bows letting you have the tip of the arrow closer to the center line of your bow for a more forgiving set up. When torque is introduced to the bow, you want it to effect the arrow as little as possible. Having the pivot point and the tip of the arrow as close to the axis of the bow only makes sense when trying to reduce this effect.

Paul