Listed below is my experience with my particular bow...I can't state that your bow will tune like mine:

I spent weeks testing different cam positions and if you put speed aside you will find a sweet spot for accuracy in your bow. The first thing you should do is get your cams set-up with the correct let-off after your rest is installed. As you know, if you start tuning your bow and nock height, then start adjusting cam rotation your wasting your time because it will throw all your work out the window.

I found that my Old Glory BowTech has an accuracy sweet spot that has been talked about on several others posts or web sights. My top cam has 6 dots showing and bottom cam only has 5 dots showing. If I was using a WB rest I have a feeling that 5.5 dots on each side of limbs would get you close. At full draw my secondary stop is just kissing the cable. I have a fairly wide valley and my wall is solid. If your wall is spongy you have problems. Anyway…my top cam is retarded 2-3 twists from the bottom cam. These 2-3 twists have restored my let-off to 80%. With drop away installed this bow is very happy right at 80% let-off. So get your rest installed and check your let-off…if it’s less than 80% then keep retarding top cam to get it there. After this is done recheck your rigging on rest if it’s a drop away. Now refine your bow tuning and nock height. I then fine tuned nock height until I got all 6 hand picked arrows hitting or as close as possible to a horizontal black piece of electrical tape from 60 yards. Looking at bow from the side, I can just barely see top of berger holes above arrow shaft. I then did a walk back tune from 30 to 70 yards to get my center shot dead on. My 70# bow with the .300 spine arrows puts my center shot right at .970 out from inboard edge of riser. If your arrows are slightly under spined start off with 1 inch center shot. By the way when I say put speed aside, I’m only talking 2-4 fps. Better to have the accuracy than the extra speed.

So what is my point with all this. First off…don’t worry about locking up your cables on the 2006. Secondly, yes this bow isn’t as critical as I may be making it sound, but if your looking for the absolute best accuracy you will have to find it and that can be found by adjusting cables/timing marks. In answer to your question, yes these bows can be adjusted. I have been all over the range of adjustmentand never had any problems. Once again within that range of adjustment you will find a spot that is best for accuracy. I just gave a good starting point in regards to the cam sync. Your timing dots will be different than mine, but the general idea is the same. I have found that the draw stop peg will get you adjustment, but in my opinion it is a patch to get the 80%. When I used draw stop only, I got a spongy wall because the secondary stop was being contacted too much. I left the draw stop in the 80% let-off position and adjusted cables bytwistingto get them to just kiss thesecondary stop.