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Old 04-02-2005, 08:00 AM   #1
 
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Default Cedars

I want to go to ceadar arrows this year. I've never shot them, and was wundering what a50/60 arrow would weight in grains @ 30" ? Also I heard that you can put adapters on them for screw in broadhead and are they any good ? Any recomendations would be apprecated.
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Old 04-02-2005, 09:24 AM   #2
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Default RE: Cedars

to be blunt, the adapters stink. The taper for the adapters that is needed on the shaft is to short for the application imho. I tried using them for the techno and dart machine arrows awhile back and consistently regardless of type of glue had them come off and I think it was mainly attributed to that taper. If the taper is off it's going to pop off. Not to mention it's a helluva lot of weight at the front of the shaft, to much for my liking.

Wood weight is dependant on its density and summer to winter growth ratio's, hence each tree will be different, each board will be different. I would also advice narrowing your spine group more then that, the more the better, the standard seems to be 6lbs (ie 50-55) and 10 grains. This is a good place to start though with a little more effort even tighter tolences can be achieved.
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Old 04-04-2005, 07:52 AM   #3
 
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Default RE: Cedars

I'm guessing such an arrow would be around 500 grns with a 125 grn pt.
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Old 04-04-2005, 09:02 AM   #4
 
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Default RE: Cedars

A rough rule of thumb is that cedars will normally weigh approximately 10grs/lb of spine, i.e. a 50# arrow will weigh approximately 500grs with a 125gr head.
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Old 04-04-2005, 07:39 PM   #5
 
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Default RE: Cedars

Thanks for the help guys. Has any one tried Cabela's cedars?? Any place else to get them reasonable ?
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Old 04-05-2005, 12:38 AM   #6
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Default RE: Cedars

Rec,

I hate to be the man to tell you this but dont opt out for cheap wood. If you do you will be dissappointed. You need MATCHED in spine and to a lesser degree weight. THe closer the better and you need to know that it's good. If not you might as well head to home depot, pick up some 3/8" dowels, flex them a few times to make sure they wont break on you immediatly, the ones that done take some time and straighten them, taper them, and fletch them.

There is no real easy way out on wood other then buying from known quality sources. Anyone who hand spines and hand weighs is going to be better then the majority of the rest. Raven is by far the tops there is these days on cedar hands down. I believe he is not building right now and is working on his machine still. His quality paralell cedars (and a bakers dozen at that), will run you 18 bucks plus shipping. Thats not including the new price jump. NO ONE matches his stuff. His 2nds are better then 95% of other buisness's first when it comes to POC.

For ash I've delt with Silent pond shafts. The barrel tapered ash he sells is premo!!! The only down fall to them is the point end is only 5/16th" diameter. I've put mine through abuse no cedar or aluminum would last through, no question they are tough. I've also never had warping problems people tend to associate with ash. The only thing I didnt like was I was using 11/32 diameter zwickey eskimos over the smaller diameter shaft but I'll tell you this. My moose didnt care and neither did my first Dall Sheep. I've yet to achieve the penetration I did with those arrows on my first moose. I have put cedar through a fairly large whitetail does shoulder, took out a rib in the process. That arrow immediately snapped. My Ram was hit high in the spine (a 10 foot almoststraight down shot, just a skosh higher then I wanted to hit to take out both lungs). That ram rolled a few times before breaking off the very end, the rest of the shaft looked more like an aluminum bent then a broken wood shaft. It preforms like nothing else I have hunted with hands down!
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Old 04-05-2005, 09:28 AM   #7
 
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Default RE: Cedars

The old saying you get what you pay for. Thanks for the input. Congrats on the critters.
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