Hole patching and refinishing

BHS · 03-02-2004, 01:44 PM

I just bought a early 70's Bear Grizzly off of E-bay, colors green and black. In the riser (green) are two small holes that were used to mount a quiver. I'd like to patch them and color match. Any ideas? Also on the limb tips there are some scuffs in the finsh over the glass. I'd like to do a little spot refinishing. Can I use a standard polyurethane, maybe marine grade from the local hardware store, or something more a speciality product? Thanks in advance.

Lilhunter · 03-03-2004, 01:49 AM

you could try to file down a small dowel, then stain and finish. I think you'd get more consistency with this then say wood dust and epoxy. Although the wood dust and epoxy would definatly be easier and I am sure they are small holes. You could look at some canoe building sites on how to do this. I am sure 60 minute epoxy would work. You could do some test runs with some wood dust to try and get the right color. Let it set up and see how it turns out before doing it on your bow as it is quite permanent.

Ossage · 03-03-2004, 12:14 PM

The problem with dowels is that the endgrain really contrasts. If that is what you want, or if you want to make a feature of it you could do it. Screw holes usualy aren't concentric, so it might be worth using a drill contersink bit that is preperatory to plugs, and install neat plugs. On the other hand plug holes are usualy 3/8", and that is cutting quite a bit of strength out of the riser.

There are people who can fill the hole, and then paint in the woodgrain, so you simply can't see that the holes were ever there. This is a furniture art. I don't know were you would find someone with those skills in your area. You could look under furniture repair, but it isn't a comon thing. You could also ask on a site like the Fine Woodworking site. If you do fill the holes with epoxy, the painting could probably be done later, so that if the bow became very valuable the repair could be made then.

You can patch those scratches with crazy glue. I use hot stuff's water thin glue, but any water thin crazy glue may work. Wad up a cloth about the size of a golf ball, so that one side is taught smooth fabric, add one drop of glue to the center, and imediately start lightly skimming back and forth over the surface. use enough speed and pressure so the tiny film of glue dries as soon as the cloth passes, don't get it so wet that the surface gets gummy and grabs the cloth. This produces a very nice, thin finish, instantly. Try it out on a similar test durface first.

In most cases values are higher if no repairs are ever undertaken. if you make these repairs you are destroying the artifact's value, to some extent, if it has any. The fact a bow is collectible to archers, doesn't mean it is important historicaly, as you know.

Lilhunter · 03-03-2004, 05:34 PM

ossage,

What I was thinking with the dowel plugs is you could slightly drill them out to smooth out the grooves left by the screws that attached the quiver.

You can pick and choose your grain when doing plugs, instead of buying dowels, you make them. Align the grain accordingly. I am thinking quiver holes are small enough you'd have to really look over it hard to see it. You could also find a piece of wood similiar in color to the riser wood before plugging. If he's painting green over it, grain wont matter and this would prove the simpler of the 2 methods. Burnish the plug before putting in so it fits snug, add your glue and it will sweel slightly filling the hole nicely. I dont remember how many of these I had to do on my strip canoe, but you'd be hardpressed to find half of them once they are sanded smooth....

I really like the epoxy and dust method but have some reserves about painting over it. Its very simple and effective. You might be able to put on some automotive touch up paint over it to match the surrounding paints. Concerns would be compatiblity.

Sagittarius · 03-07-2004, 08:53 PM

BHS,

Custom stock makers used to recommend finding the same type wood the stock was made of (in this case the bow) then grind the wood into a powder using an emery wheel.
Then they mixed the powdered wood with a clear epoxy and filled in the hole just above the surface and sanded it down level with the surface.

Sag.

gelarson · 03-09-2004, 09:02 AM

It is important that if you use the epoxy method that you match the colour of the stained or finished wood. The paste made from the epoxy will (most likely) not absorb any of the finish so you need to match it not to the prefinished wood but the finished product.

You can go to a hardware store and buy a plug cutter. With this and a sander and a lot of patience you can cut a plug so the grain matches your bow. Try going to you local lumber store to get a scrap peice of wood that is of the same type as your bow.

My 2 cents
Eric