What arrow rest?
 

I bought an old Herters Recurve bow this past summer in a yard sale really cheap. It came with a string and all but the arrow rest was not on it. I bought one that was still new that was a Herters target shooting rest. I asked a guy about it and he says do not use it. That is because the new arrow rest would require to have the bow drilled.. So what type of rest would you use? It is an old target bow that I bought to mess around with.. This was a very cheap purchase from an older fella that was having a hard time getting around.

Use any arrow rest that you like-try them and see what suites you best.No such thing as one size fits all!

I remember 20 years ago I had one of those Bear hair rests. Never ever remember it making noise when drawing for target shooting. I was using aluminum arrows back them. A doe walked past me and I set up, picked my spot and started to draw back. All was very quiet and I remember hearing "Shooo" as the arrow slide across that fake hair. The does ears pointed back too as she heard it. Luckily I released quick and killed her. I continued using the hair rest but switched to wood arrows and they are quiet on the draw.

I have used the elevated rests too, but I have had them break before and ruin shooting until you buy another one.

Personally I would use a hair rest with plate as its simple with less to break. Just relaying my story of the noisy arrow. :)

It sounds like you really only have one choice. The calf hair style rest which you could make yourself. If you have it a product called fuzzy stuff should work. All it is really is polar fleece with a sticky side. Put a small roll of the fuzzy stuff on the shelf about mid way and cover with another piece sticking it to the shelf. Next put a piece on the riser so that ot meets together with the shelf piece. This will reqire you shoot feathers not plastic vanes one draw back epending how your arrows are now. Hope this helps.

When I shot traditional, I used to make my arrow rests from the fuzzy part of a velcro strip. It is self-adhesive. When it wore out, I cut another strip.

My advice is to just shoot off the shelf. You can still buy material on line for rest material. Also you should have a small piece of leather with a slight hump in the center. (I use a piece of thin leather that I glue to the riser with a small piece of toothpick under the center of i)t. And IMO you should be shooting arrows with feathers rather than vanes for more forgiveness. I haven't shot traditional in several years and desiring to get back into it. Its simplicity is pure and although it takes a lot of practice to master its like riding a bike. Once you've done it it just comes natural. I've shot instinctive for many many years because that's all there was in the 50s and 60s.

All the un-drilled bow risers I have seen tend to have a self adhesive, bristle rest.

You say the bow is not expensive. I would drill it and install a springy.

The nock set can be moved to fit the rest.

I wouldn't shoot off the shelf. Too much chance of fletch contact. The arrow will certainly bend around the thin part of the riser. And, it may bend around the handle too. Guess it is easy enough to try.

IMO shooting off the shelf puts the shaft of the arrow closer to your hand making instinctive shooting more accurate. Being closer to your hand means you don't have to mentally adjust to the 1/2" or so above your hand. (For me, when compounds came out, I tried shooting a one off the shelf with fingers and it was almost impossible after shooting for decades off the shelf with a recurve) .If you have arrows that are properly spined your fletching will not contact the riser of the bow. The arrow shaft flexes upon release (archer's paradox). The amount of flexing can be manipulated somewhat with the weight of the tip. A heavier tip will cause more flexing than a lighter one. It should be noted that an arrow will always flex whether your shooting with fingers or a release. With fingers the arrow will flex side to side. But with a release it will flex up and down.
Here is a simplistic explanatory video of archer's paradox: https://www.sciencealert.com/watch-t...in-slow-motion

I have a Herters 1970 target bow, 72" in mint condition (this one is not inexpensive) it's designed to shoot with a flipper arrow rest, the shelf is sloped away from the riser. I guess you could build it up, but I shoot it in competition and don't want to damage the integrity and design of the bow.. I've seen this bow go from $300.00 to $1,100.00 depending on condition. If you got it cheap, you got a good deal..
I can drive nails with my Herters.