Interested in Investigating a Recurve

rlmx · 11-14-2011, 07:13 PM

Not certain where to start. I am approaching "middle-age." I am 6'2", 250. To date I have used a compound. I owned one Browning for about 7 months in 82'. Then in 80-something' I bought a Browning Mag Reflex. I have used that bow with a release and aluminum from that day forward. It is a 60-80 Lb, 27-30 inch draw. I still have enough in me to drag a 154 Lb deer through the woods for over a mile (I took the buck last Sat. here in IN w/ black powder) so I think that I can handle a recurve?

LBR · 11-14-2011, 07:37 PM

No doubt you can. Good advice an instruction goes a long way--unfortunatley the web is ate up with a lot of bad advice and instruction.

I don't know of a decent book or video to get you started from the ground up--I know of some, but none I'd recommend, and some I'd strongly suggest avoiding.

Once you get your feet wet, Masters of the Barebow Volume III is excellent.

Starting out, I'd go with a longer bow (at least 62" for a recurve, at least 66" for a longbow) and lighter draw weight (35-40# at your draw). You don't always get more by paying more. Unless you just have the extra cash, I'd start out cheap--a Samick Sage, or a cheaper ILF rig. These will get you started as good as anything, then later you can "upgrade" (if you want). There are some customs that, despite the cost, I wouldn't pay $5 for due to the unreliability of the bow and bowyer.

If you can find an experienced archer or coach in your area, it would be time well spent.

Good luck!

Chad

jrchurch254a · 11-14-2011, 08:45 PM

It is never too late to learn a new hobby; I was in my late 40's when I started using the stick and string. The best advice would be to go online and simply do a search for traditional archery, then find a good reputable archery shop and shoot as many recurves and or longbows that they have to get the idea and feel. Shooting a recurve is definately a different experience than shooting the compound. I was so freaking tired after shooting only about 30-50 arrows from my #60 recurve and couldnt figure out why. I regularly lift weights, am very active and in reasonably good shape. What I discovered after watching a bunch of old Fred Bear videos was that I was drawing my bow and holding the draw trying to get what I thought was a good sight picture. I didnt realize what reflexive or instictive shooting was so I was wearing myself out. Once I realized that the key (or what I have perceived as the key for me) was to start the sighting procedure the second you start the draw and when your hand gets to the ancher point you release, dont hold the blasted arrow. Once I realized this it became much more enjoyable to practice and now I can shoot for a considerably longer time. Anyway, just do a bunch of searches, go to a good archery shop and google youtube videos of Fred Bear and Ben Pearson and you will learn a lot. Good luck.

Chief

hookeye · 12-16-2011, 09:07 PM

Sometimes I hold, sometimes I don't, just depends on if the sightpicture is good.

hookeye · 12-17-2011, 04:27 PM

You might want to look at an ILF type of bow that offers the option of limb changes (length and poundage), plus once you decide on a set of limbs, they are adjustable in poundage to some extent (same bow, could be shot for target and cranked up for hunting, but probably require two different arrow spines to do both at the differing poundages).

LBR · 12-18-2011, 08:05 AM

Quote:

same bow, could be shot for target and cranked up for hunting

There's not that much adjustment to ILF rigs--only about 10% max. For instance, a bow that is 40# at the minimum could only be turned up to 44# max. It's more for fine tuning. They (ILF bows) are a good choice though.

Chad

hookeye · 12-18-2011, 08:53 AM

My Tradtech Pinnacle 2 goes from 48#(enough bolt in the insert) to 58# cranked down flush, but I shoot it at 56#.

It shot OK at 46# but seemed a little noisy. 48# was as low as I liked it.

hookeye · 12-18-2011, 09:05 AM

The 10% adjustment....is that usable range of adjustment

or

optimal range of adjustment (within a certain preload)?

LBR · 12-18-2011, 04:19 PM

10% is what is given for every ILF rig I've seen or read about--beyond that could be risky. I imagine you could get away with a little more here and there--but I'd be afraid of letting it down as much as you got on your Pinnacle. Got enough knots and scars on my head already! lol

Chad

hookeye · 12-18-2011, 05:49 PM

I've only got experience with 3 ILF bows.

My bud has two Hoyt ILF's that adjust well past 10% (like my TT) and they shoot fine without any problems.

Thousands of shots. They all had plenty of bolt in the threads, didn't shoot loose or have any problems with them backed out to that much engagement. I suppose one would get some limb slap at the bolt heads (maybe) if backed out too far. Think noise and shock in the shot would tell you when things were getting in the least desirable zone well before a konk.

Maybe the 10% is recommended for top performance, or maybe the tech writer was influenced by a liberal lawyer?

I'd be more worried about shooting some vintage 1 pc