ok so im 14 years old, a fairly accomplished bow hunter, i have a 9 point and a 5 under my belt and my dad has a bear recurve from the 70's. i want to challenge my self a bit more. i think it might be like a kodiak or a grizzly or something. but for my compound bow it is set at 40 lb. i have arrows that will take 40 lb of pressure, and his recurve is 45 lb. i know this is kind of logical but im not sure since on is a compound and the other is a recurve, so can i shoot them from it? and will they shatter in my face? Thanks also so tips on being consistent and how you guys instinctively shoot please!
You left out a lot of info. All the old Bear bows, the poundage is measured at 28" so the the Bear is probably 45# @ 28". Now, you didn't state what your draw length is or how long your arrows are cut. Also, you didn't state what type of arrows you have be it wood, carbon or aluminum nor did you mention what point weight you're shooting. I'm assuming you're shooting carbon arrows since you mentioned something about "shattering".
You might want to play around with this free arrow DSC program by Stu Miller. It's designed for trad bows. You'll need Microsoft Excell and if you don't have Excell, you can use the free Open Office program to open Stu's DSC program automatically. It works with wood, carbon or aluminum arrows.
You left out a lot of info. All the old Bear bows, the poundage is measured at 28" so the the Bear is probably 45# @ 28". Now, you didn't state what your draw length is or how long your arrows are cut. Also, you didn't state what type of arrows you have be it wood, carbon or aluminum nor did you mention what point weight you're shooting. I'm assuming you're shooting carbon arrows since you mentioned something about "shattering".
You might want to play around with this free arrow DSC program by Stu Miller. It's designed for trad bows. You'll need Microsoft Excell and if you don't have Excell, you can use the free Open Office program to open Stu's DSC program automatically. It works with wood, carbon or aluminum arrows.
I expect you'll find traditional archery a lot of fun.
Tell us the size of your arrows, and your draw lenght on your compound.
Usually arrows for a compound are too stiff for a recurve of similar draw weight. But there's lots of stuff you can do to adjust... simply using heavier points for example.
Do you actually have a bow (you mentioned your Dad's bow) to shoot? If so, we need to know it's draw weight at 28", your draw lenght, what kind of bow it is. I'd advise against shooting your Dad's old bow, at least not without first making sure the string is still good, the bow not damaged from storage, etc. and whether it has sentimental value to your Dad, ect.. Most do fine, but depending upon it's condition there is always some chance it will not hold up to use. This would be true of any bow from the 70s, they are 40 yo after all, but again most do fine. It's just important to really look them over good and take it slow at first, partial draws, to make sure it's still ok.
I expect you'll find traditional archery a lot of fun.
Tell us the size of your arrows, and your draw lenght on your compound.
Usually arrows for a compound are too stiff for a recurve of similar draw weight. But there's lots of stuff you can do to adjust... simply using heavier points for example.
Do you actually have a bow (you mentioned your Dad's bow) to shoot? If so, we need to know it's draw weight at 28", your draw lenght, what kind of bow it is. I'd advise against shooting your Dad's old bow, at least not without first making sure the string is still good, the bow not damaged from storage, etc. and whether it has sentimental value to your Dad, ect.. Most do fine, but depending upon it's condition there is always some chance it will not hold up to use. This would be true of any bow from the 70s, they are 40 yo after all, but again most do fine. It's just important to really look them over good and take it slow at first, partial draws, to make sure it's still ok.
Yes i do have a bow, it is my Dad's. He used to use it and he said its probably at his dad's house. He said he would be very happy if i started using it and maybe even being able to hunt with it. This is kind of off topic but i can see why some may turn to traditional, compound bow hunting isnt really like bow hunting with all the gadgets! but im still going to hunt with both, compound and recurve in the late season for doe! ok well anyway the draw length is 28" and 45 lb at that length.My draw weight for my compuond is 40 lb. My arrows are 29 or 30" but my dad has some old 2117 eastons he doesnt use, and some fall stalkers i think? He used to use wooden arrows for it, im not sure what kind of wood but im sure you guys would know. and im sure he will take it to a bow shop to see if its safe to shoot. I think it might be a Bear Grizzly or Bear Super Kodiak, he said Bear was the brand back in the day. Not so much any more atleast for compounds, hoyt and matthew plus PSE is getting all the attention. well thanks for the help guys
Last edited by huntingkidPA; 11-22-2010 at 01:14 PM.
Hopefully the bow shop guy can help, hopefully to the degree you actually get to shoot the bow in his shop to fine tune the arrow selection. I think the 2117s may be on the stiff side. 2016 would be my first choice. But it wouldn't hurt for you to try whatever you have on hand to see what happens... then use that to guide you.
Good luck recurve hunting. It's a ton of fun. Although I'd caution you it's not like compound hunting in some ways, not the least of which one's range is significantly limited by ones shooting ability. So generally you need to be closer, and generally you have to draw while the animal is actually under you, rather than "holding" full draw a while to wait for him. I create setups where I get closer shots, and from thicker cover, for this reason... although I only recurve and gun hunt.
If the 2117s are a tad stiff, lower your brace height a little and you might be able to shoot them. I had to lower my brace height from 7.750" to 7.562" to shoot the 2117s out of my 42# bow. This gave me a longer power stroke since the arrow was attached to the bowstring a hair longer upon arrow release. I chose the 2117s because with my long 30" draw combined with my 23.5" limbs, this allows me to shoot a very heavy arrow GPP (grains per pound) wise. In other words, I get the maximum performance penetration wise out of my 42# bow.
Hopefully the bow shop guy can help, hopefully to the degree you actually get to shoot the bow in his shop to fine tune the arrow selection. I think the 2117s may be on the stiff side. 2016 would be my first choice. But it wouldn't hurt for you to try whatever you have on hand to see what happens... then use that to guide you.
Good luck recurve hunting. It's a ton of fun. Although I'd caution you it's not like compound hunting in some ways, not the least of which one's range is significantly limited by ones shooting ability. So generally you need to be closer, and generally you have to draw while the animal is actually under you, rather than "holding" full draw a while to wait for him. I create setups where I get closer shots, and from thicker cover, for this reason... although I only recurve and gun hunt.
i never did take long shots wit my compound, 25 at max, hopefullly i will be able to take 15 yard shots after enough practice, and getting them in range shouldnt be much different. most bucks i passed on this year were within 10.