Hello all I haven't posted in awhile, but keep coming back to read the build alongs. Let me say you guys are awesome!!! I just have a few different questions though. When laying out your riser do you want the arrow to pass through the exact center or do you want the center to be the deepest part of your grip?
When making a tillering stick how do you measure out the inches on your stick? I know it's to measure draw length so are you marking your inches from where the grip sits or are you adding 1 3/4" ( i think thats right) for your true draw length then marking your first inch measurement and carrying on from there.( I hope thats not too confusing)
Finally, when using a long string to tiller how do you know how far you are actually bending your limbs because your marking wont be true becuase you are not using a fully braced string. Thanks to all.
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LH Hoyt Razortec
G5 Optix ME Sight
Ultra Rest LD
Side Mount STS
Beman Team Realtree Arrows
T.R.U. Short-N-Sweet Release
T/C Omega .50
Williams FP-TC Peep Sight
A bad day in the woods is still better than a good day at work.
When laying out your riser do you want the arrow to pass through the exact center or do you want the center to be the deepest part of your grip?
I have the center of the riser as the deepest part of the grip or pivot point.
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When making a tillering stick how do you measure out the inches on your stick?
All my bows are glass so I only need a tiller stick thats 18" long as thats where most of the limb twist is going to happen also at 18" I can get a good look at how the limbs are bending.
I think Kent will have to answer your other questions as he is the master of board bows
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RE: A Few Bowyer Questions?
Quote:
ORIGINAL: Redneck Bowhunter
Hello all I haven't posted in awhile, but keep coming back to read the build alongs. Let me say you guys are awesome!!! I just have a few different questions though. When laying out your riser do you want the arrow to pass through the exact center or do you want the center to be the deepest part of your grip?
I usually stay about 1/8" from center. With an arrow that is properly tuned to the bow, you dont need a shelf at all. It will bend around the riser. I stay clear of midline to prevent the riser from spliting. I think Mark had that problem on a selfbow he bought once.
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When making a tillering stick how do you measure out the inches on your stick? I know it's to measure draw length so are you marking your inches from where the grip sits or are you adding 1 3/4" ( i think thats right) for your true draw length then marking your first inch measurement and carrying on from there.( I hope thats not too confusing)
Simply get a board and cut a notch, at one end,that will hold a bow handle, or put two sides on the end of the board so a bows handle will set in it and not fall out. Measure right from the bottom of the notch, the spot the bow handle lays on, down the board. I start my first notch at 7.5". Ithen make string notches every 1.5". 1" tends to put your notches too close together and you can break, or chip out the notches you cut. If you want a tree that has 1" increments, drill holes and use pegs. That way you are not cutting into the boar. The peg trick works well.
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Finally, when using a long string to tiller how do you know how far you are actually bending your limbs because your marking wont be true becuase you are not using a fully braced string. Thanks to all.
Just watch your limbs when you start to pull on the long string. When the limbs just bearly start to move, take note as to where the sting is on your tiller tree/stick. Just subtract that distance from how ever far you pull it, and you will have the limb travel. Ex.. If your limbs just start to move at 10" and you keep pulling to 18", your limbs have traveled 8".
Hope this helps.
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kaafir mushrik
Unintended consequences and God have one thing in common: Liberals don’t believe in either of them.
Ok. I see now, thanks guys. One more for ya. I have a board of white ash that I want to use to build a bow. But the grain is horrible for it. If I cut it into strips and make a "plywood" type bow will that make it better if the grain isn't perfect?
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LH Hoyt Razortec
G5 Optix ME Sight
Ultra Rest LD
Side Mount STS
Beman Team Realtree Arrows
T.R.U. Short-N-Sweet Release
T/C Omega .50
Williams FP-TC Peep Sight
A bad day in the woods is still better than a good day at work.
I know I wouldn't. Why not cut into some laminations and buy a piece of fiberglass from 3Rivers or bingham, and and put fiberglass on it. At least the back. The amount of work it takes, you might as well use good material.
Location: land of the Lilliputians, In the state of insanity
Posts: 24,187
RE: A Few Bowyer Questions?
Quote:
ORIGINAL: Redneck Bowhunter
Ok. I see now, thanks guys. One more for ya. I have a board of white ash that I want to use to build a bow. But the grain is horrible for it. If I cut it into strips and make a "plywood" type bow will that make it better if the grain isn't perfect?
Ash will work. Idont likethe stuff. Its real brittle. Ive made bows with it that were ok. Putting it underglass would insure it doesnt break. You dont have to buy prepregged glass, just use the glass cloth and set it on the to back of the bow with some two part epoxy. No need for a heat box, just let it cure completely. Might take two or three days. You can also cure it by putting it in a car and leave it parked in the sun for a few hours. As far as laming it and reversing your grains. Ive done that. But you dont have to cut a lot of lams, Just cut a 1/8" off the back of the board and flip it over and glue it back. That way the grains cross. But if you have lots of violations, ash will need to be tillered pretty well to survive. That is for a decently heavy bow. Red oak or white oak would be a much easier first wood to work with. But if you want to use the ash, no need to get all fancy with a backing, use something like drywall tape and titebond III. Or linen and titebond, silk, or even a brown papper bag. They all will work, plus a whole lot of other things, as well. The drywall tape would be the best of the bunch I mentioned. You will surely want to back a bad piece of ash, if you chose to use it.
There are tuns of ways to skin that cat. All depends on how you want to do with it.
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kaafir mushrik
Unintended consequences and God have one thing in common: Liberals don’t believe in either of them.
Ok. I see now, thanks guys. One more for ya. I have a board of white ash that I want to use to build a bow. But the grain is horrible for it. If I cut it into strips and make a "plywood" type bow will that make it better if the grain isn't perfect?
Ash will work. Idont likethe stuff. Its real brittle. Ive made bows with it that were ok. Putting it underglass would insure it doesnt break. You dont have to buy prepregged glass, just use the glass cloth and set it on the to back of the bow with some two part epoxy. No need for a heat box, just let it cure completely. Might take two or three days. You can also cure it by putting it in a car and leave it parked in the sun for a few hours. As far as laming it and reversing your grains. Ive done that. But you dont have to cut a lot of lams, Just cut a 1/8" off the back of the board and flip it over and glue it back. That way the grains cross. But if you have lots of violations, ash will need to be tillered pretty well to survive. That is for a decently heavy bow. Red oak or white oak would be a much easier first wood to work with. But if you want to use the ash, no need to get all fancy with a backing, use something like drywall tape and titebond III. Or linen and titebond, silk, or even a brown papper bag. They all will work, plus a whole lot of other things, as well. The drywall tape would be the best of the bunch I mentioned. You will surely want to back a bad piece of ash, if you chose to use it.
There are tuns of ways to skin that cat. All depends on how you want to do with it.
Is this the same glass, they use on wood canoes? Its like a cloth or tarp and when you put it down with resin, it goes clear? I was wondering why some selfbows don't use some flexible glass for its back. Guess it kinda defeats the primitive thing. but would save an iffy piece of osage.
A Few Bowyer Questions?
