Traditional tuning

Seif5034 · 10-08-2008, 09:12 PM

I've been in the compound world for a little while (couple years) and am very interested in making my 1st selfbow. I've learned enough to get myself hooked, butI've got a question. How do you keep a bow in tune during the build process? If you shoot a bow "off the knuckle". Are you actually shooting a bow that is out of tune?

Can any of you experienced bowyers clarify this for me?

burniegoeasily · 10-09-2008, 08:05 AM

You build the bow first. Tiller it well, and it will be in tune. You tuneyour arrows to the bow. Nuckle shooters simply require a bit softer spin so the arrow bends around the handle upon release. If you have never shot a trad bow, Id suggest cutting a shelf. Nuckle shooting takes some practice to get everything jiving.

burniegoeasily · 10-09-2008, 08:09 AM

When you tiller, get a good even arch and the tips horizontal when drawn and you will have a tuned bow. Here is what I mean by an good even arch.

10-09-2008, 08:41 AM

And here is what happens with a bad tiller

10-09-2008, 08:41 AM

http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn73/bigcountry_ky/OsageBuildalong/Tiller26inches.jpg?

burniegoeasily · 10-09-2008, 10:33 AM

Thats not bad Mark. Right limb got stiffouter thirds with a slight hinge started at the first of the outer third. The left limb has stiff outer thirds and a little too stiff off the fades. Id loosen the outer thirds of both limbs, loosen the right fade just a tad and loosen the left first third a bit and tiller the rest of the bow to the hinge on the right. Not sure if it is the picture, but it looks like you got some twist in the left limb. Just take wood off the edge of the high side. You might end up with a lighter bow than you intended, but that is part of the learining process. But the tiller is not all that bad. Some good 35 or 40 grit sandpaper would do the trick on fixing those flat spots and finishing the tiller.

burniegoeasily · 10-09-2008, 11:24 AM

Actually, after looking at the right limb a little closer, the first third is not all that bad, I might not even touch the fades, but the left does need the first third loosened a bit.

10-09-2008, 12:56 PM

Quote:

ORIGINAL: burniegoeasily

Actually, after looking at the right limb a little closer, the first third is not all that bad, I might not even touch the fades, but the left does need the first third loosened a bit.

This was before I really screwed it up. I messed around with the right limb and ended up getting a bad hinge 10" from then tip. Bow is down from 55lbs to 40lbs now and still looks bad. Only think left to do is try to get it right and pike and heat treat the belly. Remember that instruction in Trad Bible Vol 1, where they said, "don't go and try to take a bunch of wood off all at once or you will turn that 60lb bow into a 35lb real quick?" Well, lesson learned.

I have put it away for a while. And figured I would come back to it. Figured if I can get it right, I will pike it by taking 2" off each tip, and sell or give away to someone with a 27" draw. It will be 60" bow at that point. I made the width 1 3/4" at the fades, so I think it will handle the shorter length.

I also have a bunch of sinew. This is an option too after piking. And might be safe for my 29" draw.

I just don't have the eye you guys do for these things yet.

burniegoeasily · 10-09-2008, 01:31 PM

Quote:

ORIGINAL: bigcountry

Quote:

ORIGINAL: burniegoeasily

Actually, after looking at the right limb a little closer, the first third is not all that bad, I might not even touch the fades, but the left does need the first third loosened a bit.

This was before I really screwed it up. I messed around with the right limb and ended up getting a bad hinge 10" from then tip. Bow is down from 55lbs to 40lbs now and still looks bad. Only think left to do is try to get it right and pike and heat treat the belly. Remember that instruction in Trad Bible Vol 1, where they said, "don't go and try to take a bunch of wood off all at once or you will turn that 60lb bow into a 35lb real quick?" Well, lesson learned.

I have put it away for a while. And figured I would come back to it. Figured if I can get it right, I will pike it by taking 2" off each tip, and sell or give away to someone with a 27" draw. It will be 60" bow at that point. I made the width 1 3/4" at the fades, so I think it will handle the shorter length.

I also have a bunch of sinew. This is an option too after piking. And might be safe for my 29" draw.

I just don't have the eye you guys do for these things yet.

It takes practice. I would not give up on the bow. It sounds like you are see-saw tillering. when you are at the point you are at with that bow, get away from the rasps, scrapers (unless you are real good with them),and surforms. Use a low grit sandpaper. I use a bur scraper with a very mild burr and/or 35 grit sand paper on a block at the point you are at. Osage will show tiller effect real quick. Much faster than a dense wood like ipe. Once you get it tillered out, you can heat in some reflex, pike it, and back with sinew . And you are right, at 1 3/4 osage can handle quite a bit of tension as long as its backed. If you uses sinew, heat in some reflex then let the sinew pull in more as it dries. Ive never had much luck heat treating bellies, so i cant help you their.

Seif5034 · 10-09-2008, 05:51 PM

Thanks for all the replies guys. That makes a lot of sence. I figured a proper tiller would do the trick. I do shoot a store boughtfiberglass trad bowright now 25# @ 28" I think.so it's nothing special, but fun to shoot.