With the new arrows I' m shootin the feathers are takin too much of a beatin. I know feathers wear out over time, but these a seriously gettin worked over. I use parabolics on my last set of arrows, and I' m usin shields now. I think it' s contactin the shelf too much. Could it be from havin a higher profile than the parabolics? I lowered the nock a wee bit to try to get a better angle, should I try to raise shelf material up to keep the feathers from hittin the shelf so much? Or would it kill to trim the feathers down a little?
Did you paper tune after you lowered the nock? It may not like the lwered nock position and the arrow may be hitting the shelf and kicking up. Paper tune and see where you are. You should be able to get a three fletch around a single hole punch through the paper, if properly tuned/spined.
Hey, Bill. I lowered the nock because the feathers were gettin whooped. I checked the nock alignment and it is a little off. The bottom feather is pointin a little too downward instead of the corner of the shelf. The shaft itself is contactin the strike plate. It' s leavin black streaks on the shaft. This never happened with my other arrows. These arrows are significantly heavier than my last ones, could that mess up the paradox?
They' re both right wing. My fletcher clamp has a right helix. I think either because the shield cuts have a higher profile and are contactin the shelf more, or that the more weight in the ramin shaft is causin problems. They were both 5" RW, ' cept the last ones were parabolic and these are shield cuts.
I' ve never seen sheild cut and parabolics change things that bad. Something else is going on here.
You say these arrows are significantly heavier than your last set of arrows. That wouldn' t cause them to paradox any differently, but that significant weight might just might be a tipoff that their spine is different from your last set. Different spine would definitely paradox different. I' m not much of a believer in paper tuning stickbows, but I would bareshaft a couple of these arrows and see how they act.
The bit about the black stripes on the arrows from the strike plate is screaming bad spine, at least to me.
I don' t understand why you lowered your nock point... lowering your nock point will cause MORE contact with your fletching, not less. I would raise the nock point and also raise brace height and see what happens. If it gets better fine. If not, lower the brace height. If neither works, then try heavier and lighter tips. If nothing works, you' ve just got arrows your bow doesn' t like.
Hey, Arthur. Last night I was thinkin about it and wonderin how they could be makin more contact now than they did before, and how they could start rubbin like that when they didn' t before. For whatever reason I wondered if the string had stretched. I forgot to mention that I had changed the string too so I wouldn' t expect people to catch onto that. But I checked it this mornin and it had stretched quite a bit. No rubbin the plate and the feathers aren' t gettin thrashed. It' s actually thumpin the target a lot harder than it did.
Does changin the brace height effect the spine? The spine is supposed to be the same as my last set. So unless the guy is a jerk they' re the same. They' re a different wood though. Ramin vs Cedar. I also put about five coats of tru-oil on them whereas I just stained the cedars. So all thigns bein the same ' cept the weight, I wondered if that was ' causin it. Turns out it was the brace height though. But thanks for all your' ns help so I could find out what' s goin on. I really appreciate it.
brace height does indeed effect spine. It is one of several factors to properly tune a bow. Re the arrows, even if they are the same spine, ramin and cedar will perform differently. for that matter, most any wood has it' s own character. I found I could shoot 5lbs lighter spine with ramin.
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My feathers are gettin whooped.
