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Old 04-12-2008, 08:17 AM   #1
 
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Default Tuning question.....

Just something I've been tossing around...... What do you consider the "best" method of tuning:

Tuning the bow to the arrow or Tuning the arrow to the bow.....

At the end of the day, is there a difference? Is one method more forgiving than others?
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Old 04-12-2008, 09:16 AM   #2
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Default RE: Tuning question.....

To me tuning the arrow to the bow would be my way of doing it. I'm no tech junkie but it seems this works best for me.
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Old 04-12-2008, 11:57 AM   #3
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Default RE: Tuning question.....

DC, I know you have much more experience in this. But I find changing Brace Height does very little for me. I can fine tune things, but thats it.

I first will bare shaft at 30.5" arrow length, and then change points from 125-250. If I find things too weak with 125gr tip, I will cut the arrow 1/2". But I can't go below 29" and really don't want to go below 29.5". Sometimes I might shoot thru paper.

I find tuning the arrow for the bow with bareshaft out to 25 yards best. Then move to broadheads.
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Old 04-12-2008, 06:28 PM   #4
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Default RE: Tuning question.....

I tune my arrow to the bow. There's an optimum brace height where (with most bows anyway) you'll have the quietest shot and least vibration, not to mention you'll void the warranty on some bows if you don't stay within specs on the brace height.

Chad
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Old 04-13-2008, 12:20 PM   #5
 
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Default RE: Tuning question.....

How Can you shoot an arrow with a point on it then cut it down again. Cause would't it cut through the insert?
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Old 04-13-2008, 12:53 PM   #6
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Default RE: Tuning question.....

Pull the insert first. Easier to do with aluminum than carbon, but it can be done with carbon also. Not too long ago I learned about the "slide hammer" method of removing inserts from carbon arrows--find a drill bit (or something similar--alittle longer/heavier should work better) that just fits inside the shaft. Sling it down the shaft (be careful) so it hammers the insert out.

Aluminum is easy--just heat it a bit and pull the insert.

Never made any sense to me to try to tune the bow to the arrow. Seems like you'd be a lot more limited in what you could do, not to mention not getting the best performance from your bow.

Chad
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Old 04-13-2008, 12:58 PM   #7
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Default RE: Tuning question.....

Quote:
ORIGINAL: Redneck Bowhunter

How Can you shoot an arrow with a point on it then cut it down again. Cause would't it cut through the insert?
Awww, the beauty of alum that some have forgot. With some heat, the old insert comes right out.
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Old 04-14-2008, 07:35 AM   #8
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Default RE: Tuning question.....

I dont see how you could tune a trad bow exclusively. You have to do both. Get your string in order, brace height. Then tune arrow to bow. You will have to move your knock up and down, then you will have to either cut your arrow or change head weights to get the windage right.
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Old 04-14-2008, 07:40 AM   #9
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Default RE: Tuning question.....

How to cut a shaft with out cutting through the insert? Aluminum, you can heat the glue and remove it. With carbon; You will have no fletching on the arrow, so what I do is cut from the back of a shaft until I get it right, then make up all my other arrows accordingly.
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Old 04-14-2008, 07:58 AM   #10
 
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Default RE: Tuning question.....

Quote:
ORIGINAL: burniegoeasily

I dont see how you could tune a trad bow exclusively. You have to do both. Get your string in order, brace height. Then tune arrow to bow. You will have to move your knock up and down, then you will have to either cut your arrow or change head weights to get the windage right.
I agree and I almost always tune the arrow to the bow, but was curious if one method provided a more optimal tune over the other, even for fully adjustable compounds?
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