TRU Center Taper tool

Kip · 02-11-2003, 09:32 AM

For those of you that use one of these, tell me what is wrong. I just got a Tru center taper tool, and it does not cut true. It takes more off one side of the shaft than the other. I am using the bushing that the shaft just fits in. Why is it doing this? I have tried blade adjustments, and it still does the same thing. Whats the secret? I knew I should have just spend the money and got a woodchuck.

sleepyhollow · 02-11-2003, 10:18 AM

i use one, all i can think of is that your shafts are not straight(out of round) on the end

Kip · 02-11-2003, 01:02 PM

Sleepy, I thought of that, but the whole dozen out of round? It doesnt make sense to me. The arrows are straight, and roll like crazy across the table, and dont appear to be out of round. Only thing I can think of, is if the shaft guide was drilled off center.

Grey Taylor · 02-11-2003, 01:39 PM

Were I a more impulsive individual I would be surrounded by broken windows. Every time I used the Tru Center tool I had an overwhelming urge to throw it through the nearest window. A Woodchuck tool was *the* best thing that happened to my arrow building endeavours. These days I only use the Tru Center to peel away built up gasket lacquer on my nock tapers after dipping them. It works well for that.

Guy

Chessbum · 02-11-2003, 03:17 PM

I have one that I've used for a few years. Maybe it is the blade adjustment (two screws) in yours causing the problem? I had a little trouble when I first got it but after throwing out the guide pin I just watch what I'm cutting closer. I made a base like the one on the woodchuck tool that was mentioned and I can clamp it to a belt sander but I keep using my taper tool instead of it because it is handier.

woodbow · 02-11-2003, 03:59 PM

The blade angle is not set correctly. Sometimes they can be difficult to get set..

If you have a shaft with a correct taper use it to set the blade close and then adjust from there.

mlj64 · 02-11-2003, 04:38 PM

Kip, I had a similar problem when I first used mine. Then, as Woodbow suggests, I used a pre-shaped shaft as a template to set the blades and my problems were solved. I now have a couple of old /broken tapered shafts saved as templates in the event of a blade change.
In an earlier thread, there was mention made of tired arms and hands. Well, I'm of the "energy-efficient" variety (otherwise known as lazy!) and use a drill to grind/cut the tapers. Provided you advance the shaft slowly and spin it adequately quickly, the end result is the best I can achieve.
Hope this helps
Mark

"tread softly and carry a big stick" - acknowledgements to LandRover & FDR.

Kip · 02-12-2003, 01:14 AM

Thanks for the help guys. I will try to play with the blade angle some more, and see what happens. I did use an arrow that was done correctly, but maybe it moved again when I tightened the screws back down. I'll let you know how I make out.

Deleted User · 02-20-2003, 07:12 AM

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Lilhunter · 02-20-2003, 07:48 PM

another thing to try is flipping the blade over. I have heard it being done and helping. I however havent had to or experimented with it either as I picked up a wood chuck and also a disc sander. The TC is nice for doing arrows once in awhile, the wc or disc sander is just pure awesome for doing more then a dozen arrows.