Building Arrows

[mez]

Question for the wood arrow builders here. I've been cutting and fletching my own arrows for years and now have the itch to start building my own wooden arrows from raw shafts. I have a general idea of what I need to do but could use some advice.

1. Dipping shafts; I want to crown dip them white. I can't find anything on the internet on how the dip tubes work. I don't want to spend the money on the big aluminum did tubes, won't make that many arrows. Do I need to buy dip tubes or can you just put paint in some generic container and dip your shafts? Are the dip tubes easier etc?
For sealing shafts there is a good tutorial on stickbow so I know I will need to get at least the long dip tube for that.

2. Straightening shafts; which of the arrow straighteners have you had luck with? Are they self explanatory? I want to start with one of the tools or at least have one before I try to hand straighten them.

3. Knock and point tapers; which is the best hand tool for this. Dont' think I'll build enough to spend the $100 on the electric taper tool.

4. Cresting; going to buy the Bohing cresting kit for that. Is it worth the money? It is the only one I see advertised so unless I build my own I'm guessing it is the one to have?

Only other thing, I don't like the looks of the laquered shafts. The shiny surface that cracks. Are there any sealing dips that don't leave that thick gloss on the arrow but give it more of a natural wood/oiled type look?

Any and all suggestions/tips welcome!!

[LBR]

Send me an e-mail to lbr@ayrix.net or chad@recurves.com and I'll send you instructions for a simple arrow finish that works better than anything I've used, is relatively cheap, and everything you need can be picked up at Wal-Mart, a hardware store, etc.

I don't use a straightening tool--don't need one. Generally speaking, if a POC shaft is too crooked to straighten by hand it's a tomato stake. Hardwoods may be a different story--Ace Broadheads has one that's supposed to be easy to use and work great.

The "pencil sharpener" type taper tools work fine. I wouldn't get a Tru-Center--expensive, and if you ever have to change or adjust the blade angle it can be a royal pain. Lone Wolf Traditional Archery and Kustom King have a good one that doesn't cost much.

Cresting is covered in the instructions I mentioned. You need a decent brush or two, and a crester. Don't spend the extra money on the "Pro" model Bohnning offers--I think the only difference between it and the other is the drip tray, which is pretty much useless. My favorite is the Arrow Specialties, but I don't think they are made anymore. The Phillips crester is a good one also.

You will get a shiny finish with the method I use. Easy fix if you rather have a matte finish--when you finish and they are dry, go over them lightly with steel wool to dull them down.

Chad