RE: Yes...another feather question....
Mobow, I've used tape on all arrow materials with excellent results. For carbon arrows, I'd wipe the shafts down with denatured alcohol and let them dry overnight before fletching.
My fletching routine:
Place feather in the clamp. Run a strip of tape onto the base of the feather. Clip the tape, leaving about 1/16" of a tag end, past the feather's base. The extra length makes it easier to grab and strip off the plastic covering.
Put the clamp in the jig and press down firmly against the arrow. Thenrun your thumbnail firmly along the length of thequill to make sure the base is in full contact withthe shaft. (If you keep your nails short, a small screwdriver or nail file worksfine.)
Remove the clamp and run a finger firmly the length of the feather, to make double sure it's contacting the shaft and is stuck down. Then index the jig to the next station and repeat.
When you pull the arrow out of the jig, put a dab of glue - I usually use Duco on carbon, and wood that has been sealed withpoly or gasket lacquer / fletchtite on aluminum, or woods that have been dipped in bohning lacquer- at each end of each feather. Done.
I do take one extra little step, but it's not really required... After the dabs of glue dry, Iput an extra dab on the front ends of the feathers. I let the glue set up a bit, then press it down into a little ramp. It makes a smooth transition from the shaft to the feather so I'm less likely to get feather cuts on my hand. Making the little ramps like that would make the feathers less likely to hang up in a rest like the whisker bisquit too. So, if you use a wb, I highly suggest taking the extra step.
|
