Ya'll have any arrow makin tools you want to sell?

Double Creek · 09-15-2005, 02:42 PM

I need just about everything..... Spiner, scale, taper tool, etc......

Thought I would ask here before I buy from somewhere else.....

LBR · 09-15-2005, 10:48 PM

Here's instructions for making your own spine tester.

http://www.jamesmhill.com/Spine_Tester.html

Heard it works great---plan on giving one a test soon. I bought a great digital scale off e-bay for less than $50 (including shipping)--similar to the one that goes for $40 in 3 Rivers, but a higher weight capacity.

If you are mechanically inclined, you can make a jig for a taper grinder. I'm not, and found out that if you plan to make many arrows at a time the hand-powered ones will wear you out. A Woodchuck power taper tool was worth the money to me. If you get a crester, I wouldn't go with the Bohnning. I use an Arrow Specialties, but have heard the Phillips is a good one too. If you do go with a Bohnning, get the Jr. Unless things have changed, the only thing you get extra with the "Pro" model is a drip tray that you don't need--and it makes the thing bulky and harder to store.

The best arrow finish I've ever used doesn't require any dip tubes or gaskets, and is cheap to mix. If you need the recipie, let me know and I'll send it. It's not quite as quick and easy as GL, but a lot cheaper and a WHOLE lot more durable. Cresting and cap paints, using this method, can be purchased from Wal-Mart. If you don't have a torch, get an alcohol burner--cheap to get, cheap to use, and works great. Rit dye, leather dye, polk berries, black walnut husks, analyne dies, and wood stains are fairly cheap, easy to use, and you don't have to get most of them from a specialty store. Polk berries will stain anything--I think you could color stainless steel with those things. Boil black walnut husks for another natural dye. Analyne dies come in umpteen different colors, and can be found with a quick web search. A pint of stain from Wal-Mart will take care of a LOT of arrow shafts. Get some good rubber gloves, or a lot of disposable ones--they don't cost much, and are real handy when you are fooling with dyes and shaft sealers. Go ahead and get good cresting brushes--I've tried lots of cheap ones and they were a waste of my money. Lone Wolf Archery sells a unique little brush that will take the place of several different ones--I love mine, and it's about the only one I use. I think it's close to $10, but worth it to me considering how many brushes it will take the place of.

Oh yeah....I don't have anything to sell--sorry.

Chad

(edited because I can't spell)

Double Creek · 09-16-2005, 06:33 AM

Thanks Chad....

I'm not really wanting to get into the cresting and staining just yet......... The way I break arrows, all that work would be a waste of time

I'm not a very handy/machanical type guy

I don't just myself to get things precise enough.......

LBR · 09-16-2005, 10:49 AM

To get by quick/easy/cheap, get a pencil trimmer type taper tool and an alchohol burner (unless you already have a torch). A candle will work in a pinch. Get a good fletching jig--the BPE Pro is a good one, but I like my Bitzenburger the best. Use fletching tape and you won't need more than one. The epoxy finish works just fine on a naked shaft, but putting a cap on is pretty quick and easy, and may help you see the flight of the arrow and find lost ones easier (yellow, chartruese, and bright pink show up best to me).

Sometimes I don't stain or cap my arrows--just put a little cresting on them--that looks good too.

Chad

Ole Buck · 09-18-2005, 06:04 AM

I have a grain scale, same as in 3 Rivers for $62.95, that I would let go for $40.00 plus shipping. It is like brand new in original box.

Chad, I would be interested in that recipe for arrow finish.

Jim

Arthur P · 09-18-2005, 08:29 AM

I've got a fletching jig I'd sure like to sell.... But I have not yet run across anyone I hate bad enough to sell it to 'em.[&o]

And I'd like to see Chad spill the beans on his magic arrow finish too.[:-]

wyomingtrapper · 09-19-2005, 12:56 PM

Add my vote for Chad sharing the recipe for the finish! Help us out here will ya?

Lilhunter · 09-22-2005, 02:08 AM

wood chucks are nice but I'd opt out for a disc sander of some sort, the prices are similar and you can much much more with the disc and belt sander then you can do with just the wood chuck. The jigs themselves are extremely simple. If you get Primitive Archery Mag, Nick T did a recent article on a self nock jig. He use's one of these jigs to grind his nock and point tapers with that is featured on their. Simple, cheap and effective.

I would also bet on the disc sander attachment you can do the point shoulders like Tom and I are doing. Tom walked me through it on my woodchuck. It's a pain to get set up and once it's there DONT move it for anything. That usually means having another way to do the nock tapers if they dont already come that way. The shoulder itself is basically a slight recess before the taper is cut, so instead of the taper going from shaft diameter to the small end of the taper whatever that maybe, it's maybe 1/64 to 1/32" smaller diameter at the big end of the taper causing a lip. This lip works two fold. Helps with broadhead alignment. Basically you can get points and bh's on and have them spin as well as alums or carbons (as long as the shafts themselves are straight in that last section of arrow). And two it leaves a nice clean transition between the heads and the shafts leaving no exposed taper. It's truely worth the time and I believe it can be acoomplished on any disc sander though I've only done mine on the woodchuck. I use the belt sander (mine is the craftsmen belt with disc attachment) to do tapered shafts, barrel shafts, and soon breasted shafts along with using it to help turn some foots down.

If you dontget PA find one, if you can let me know I know Nick has in the past sent me pictures of an assortment of jigs. Great guy btw if you havent met him, he goes by Ionian on tradgang or the LW.