bow tuning Questions

[timgrant_75]

ok i have a couple quesions. first, is it normal if i line up my string and my rest and my sights are about a 16th of an inch to the left. next, about bare shaft tuning i have my bare shaft hitting with my fletched ones at 20 yardsbut they are not straight like the fletched ones the are hit the target in at about a 60 degree angle with the nock high and to the left. if any one could help i would be very thankful thanks tim

[TerryM]

I would pay more attention to how the fletched ones fly which is what matters to me. How do the fletched ones paper tune?

[nodog]

I don't really understand how shooting an arrow with a FOC way out of wack is a good way to tune. It should have the nock high because the front of the shaft is so much heavier than the back. I know some guys (well repected) have and preferr bare shaft tuning over paper but it just seem right to me to tune the bow to a properly built shaft. Just MO.

[zak123]

Your arrow will take the path of least resistance when entering the target. This is why your arrows go in slanted. I can take my bow, which is tuned, and shoot it at 60 yards and it will go in sideways.

[JoshKeller]

at 20 yards, your arrow begins to go down because of the point weight and there is no resistance on the back of the arrow to keep it straight. My bare arrows impact about 1.5" low at the point at 20 yards when I have the perfect tune needed to get broadheads and fieldpoints hitting hte exact same spot.

[BGfisher]

It's been my experience over the decades that if your arrow is entering the target at any kind of angle then your tuning is not complete. When you have the bow tuned nearly perfect then that bare shaft will fly to the target like it's following a laser. All you'll see going is a nock---if you see that. Yes, sometimes they will get angled a bit by whatever the target is made of

It's also been my experience that if your nock is high left then move your nocking point down and then add a turn to your limbs. Your arrows are acting nock high and stiff. If the arrow doesn't straighten out then go the other way, removing weight from the limbs. Or you can move your centershot accordingly.

I've been doing this for many years and usually get a bare shaft to fly almost perfectly out to 35 yards. After that I got some idea that fletching takes over somewhere along the trail.

[timgrant_75]

thank yall for your input

[bigbuck270]

I just recently got a new string on my bow I had it paper tuned so there were only bullet holes. When I put on muzzys everything went haywire. I then bare shaft tuned it and I could shoot 20 yards and group right with the field points but the broad heads still would not fly. So I started shooting 3 broadheads and 3 field points. I kept moving the rest until they all hit the same spot. Just my 2 cents but I feel tuning is over rated.

[mainehunt]

My bow is tuned so I can hit well at 40 yards. My Muzzys fly with my field points, and I am very happy with the bow.

BUT....if I shoot a bare shaft, it sticks in the target at 10 yards with the nock extremely low, as if the nock weigh ten pounds. My arrows stick in perfectly with target, field, or broadheads.

I personally don't have any more use for bare shaft tuning.

Just my 2 cents worth.

[BGfisher]

ORIGINAL: bigbuck270

I just recently got a new string on my bow I had it paper tuned so there were only bullet holes. When I put on muzzys everything went haywire. I then bare shaft tuned it and I could shoot 20 yards and group right with the field points but the broad heads still would not fly. So I started shooting 3 broadheads and 3 field points. I kept moving the rest until they all hit the same spot. Just my 2 cents but I feel tuning is over rated.

If you think tuing is so overrated then why are you moving your rest around. That's what tuning is about. Paper tuning is just rough tuning. What you did to get broadheads and field points to hit together is finer tuning.