What do you do when at least one of your brand new carbons will not pass the spin test with any of your broadhead? I've paired it with at least 6 or 7 BH's and all show at least a small, yet discernable wobble. Just use it for field points or can something be done?
The inserts--installed by the pro shop--were put there with epoxy glue.
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That last statement of yours tends to make it difficult to offer any suggestions on my part. Usually, if an arrow is cut on both ends instead of just one end.....and the ends are squared with a squaring tool then most of the wobble, if not all, tends to disappear on some of the better style ICS carbons.
Considering your situation, field points may be the best option. Maybe one of the others can come up with a better solution.
Lay it in a "V" groove and push the end up against some sandpaper at a perfect 90 degrees and twist the arrow. I made a jig for this.....one 3 x 8 x 3/4" piece of pine with a saw-curf cut lengthwise down the 3" side. Then a attatched a piece of 1/4" plywood perfectly square to the end. Oh, you'll need to remove some material off of the pine at the end were you attach the plywood so there is a place for dust and debris to fall to. Otherwise it'll clog up and will no longer give you a true edge. I've used this jig for a few years thinking about marketing it....then I see G5 has a product out called the ASD - Arrow Squaring Device - it's the same dang thing.
Jason, thanks for the advice, but I'm not sure what you're suggesting will work since the cuprit more likely will be the insert inside, which--unfortunately--in forever sealed in place.
I'm OK with it being added to my collection of practice shafts, but since I already have plenty of those, it's a pretty expensive practice arrow-- never been used.
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My thoughts exactly. You didn't spend a hundred buck to get fliers. I'd Take that arrow back to the shop and if they can't remedy the issue I'd call carbon express directly. For the price of those shafts they should ALL be perfect IMO. I'd expect nothing less.
If you bought cheap shafts then you can expect that some will wobble but not with the selects. You paid for quality and quality should be delivered. I wish you the best of luck
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As long as the wobble isn't at the nock end, you can use a mechanical on that arrow.
I know, I know, this sounds like a bandaid; but, it's an option that I use in a very unique way. I keep two of six arrows in my quiver loaded with judo tips for practicing from the treestand when I leave the woods. Since these arrows are shot into the ground a lot, I can't depend on their tips being straight if I need them for hunting in a rare instance. I keep two small mechanical BHs tapped to my quiver just in case. I know that I'll get decent arrow flight should the occassion ever arise.
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Len, say it ain't so!! Sometimes it happens. That's why when I fletch arrows for someone I cut at least 3" off the back and take the rest off the front. In most cases this gives me a straigt shaft to fletch and build. I install the inserts with 24 hour expoxy and spin test each one with a broadhead before the glue sets up. You have to be careful not to move the insert, and it takes more time, but you end up with straight inserts, arrows and nocks. I also try to talk customers into instaling unibushings and G nocks in place of the standard system used in most carbon arrows. Based on some recomedations from well respected board members I went with Carbon Exp. shafts whenever possible and have been very happy with the performance and quality of the shafts. So much so I am considering going with the Term/Selects for myself next year. The CX shafts have been very good as well. Beman hunters for the most part have been fine but they seem to work out best if cut to 28" or less.
New carbon won't spin straight
Sometimes it happens. That's why when I fletch arrows for someone I cut at least 3" off the back and take the rest off the front. In most cases this gives me a straigt shaft to fletch and build. I install the inserts with 24 hour expoxy and spin test each one with a broadhead before the glue sets up. You have to be careful not to move the insert, and it takes more time, but you end up with straight inserts, arrows and nocks. I also try to talk customers into instaling unibushings and G nocks in place of the standard system used in most carbon arrows. Based on some recomedations from well respected board members I went with Carbon Exp. shafts whenever possible and have been very happy with the performance and quality of the shafts. So much so I am considering going with the Term/Selects for myself next year. The CX shafts have been very good as well. Beman hunters for the most part have been fine but they seem to work out best if cut to 28" or less.
