What would be the most important element to consider when purchasing a bow for the first time, given I'd like to use it for target practice, deer, hog, turkey, and even bowfishing?
1) What would be the ideal fps (feet per second) to go with?
2) How simple is it to adjust draw length? (I'm 5/8, 160 lb.)
3) Please discuss any other relevant info.
This might not be what your wanting to hear, but I think the best answer would be to visit your nearest bow shop and do some talking there. If you get a good vibe ask the questions you asked hear and let them set you up correctly. You will be a lot happier in the long run allowing someone else with the know-how to set you on the right track instead of trying to figure it out on your own. I know first hand it can be real frustrating when things don't go the way they are supposed to.
A good starting point IMHO would be at least 36" ata, at least 7" brace height and any IBO rating of 290 or better.
Good luck in your quest!
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Disclaimer- I am not now, nor ever have been a paid bow technician, any advice given is just my opinion.
TxBoy, welcome to Archery!! I would add a couple of things to DaveC's advice tough. IBO ratings are based on a draw weight(pull) of 70 lbs. and a draw length of 30" shooting an arrow weighing only 5 grains/inch minimum. If you are just starting to shoot ,70lbs. may be too much and I doubt for your stature you should draw a 30" bow and at 5grains per inch arrow weight is basically for competition and will be under manufacturers suggested weight for most warranties. So do not also expect to get a bow that shoots 290fps if you get something shorter in draw and less poundage, although that is very possible depending upon the set-up of cams etc. My bottom line is like DaveC's, go to a pro shop or veteran shooter for advice, but remember this , if it feels hard and uncomfortable to draw, hold steady for the count of 10, and aim well, then try another set-up.
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To be a Bow Hunter is to be Stealthy, Patient, Accurate, and fearful of your sharpened broadheads!!!
Oops, guess I should have explained that a little better.
Starting with an IBO of 290+ will have you actually hunting anywhere from 235fps up to ~280 which are both perfectly fine for hunting.
But like pseLee stated the draw length, draw weight, arrow weight and do-dads on the string are gonna lower the IBO # in no-time flat.
In the good ole days of AMO ratings I would take both the AMO and IBO numbers and know I was gonna land somewhere in the middle.
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Disclaimer- I am not now, nor ever have been a paid bow technician, any advice given is just my opinion.
If this is your first bow, I strongly suggest going to a good pro shop, maybe a few, and ask them these same questions and try some different bows out. Also give them a spending limit, bows run the full range from affordable to pretty darn expensive. Also keep in mind you will not just be buying a bow. You will need the bow, a rest, sights, maybe a stabilizer, arrows, tips and most likely a release. Not to mention a target to shoot into. All this stuff adds up pretty quick and may equal what you spent on the bow alone. My first bow was a Darton Yukon, it was a mid priced bow at the time and the sticker went for $350 just for the bow. By the time I was done I had spent close to $600, and I was not getting expensive accessories or anything. A cheap prong rest, 30 dollars sights, inexpensive release and the such. And that was without a target or stabilizer. I'm telling you, it adds up and take it into account ahead of time.
As far different bows, everyone has a preference to brand and type, but it's really just a preference in the end. Pretty much every bow on the market shoots well, it just depends on what you want to do with it and how it fits you. What I think is a great bow for me, someone else might not like at all. It's a very individual thing. Some bows are known for certian things however. Like mathews are very shock free and smooth when you shoot them. Bowtechs on the other hand are very effecient and have very good speeds.
Being adjustable for draw length is another issue. Some bows are better than others. Some are adjustable by using a different cam for a speicific draw length range, having a post type adjustment for for each inch or so in that range, lets say 4 inches or so. These are very versatile bows with lots of adjustment for an archer. Other bows are adjustable using a module system. You swap out a module on the cam to change your draw length by an inch or half an inch in some cases. Other bows use a module system, with small range of adjustment for fine tuning. Like a 27 inch module and a way to fine tune it up and down say maybe half an inch or so in either direction. Other bows, like Mathews for instance require a different cam to change your draw length and offer no adjustment at all other than tweaking your string and cable. The plus side is you can't get these bow over the net, you have to go to a dealer. This insures that the bow will fit you to begin with. And if it needs to be changed to fine tune it the dealer can swap out the cam, most likely at no charge to you if you bought the bow from them. Same thing goes for the bows that take modules for the most part.
Here is a link that shows all the parts on a bow and what they do and different aspects of different designs. It also has a list comparing different bows for speed and forgiveness.
I'm going to say it again, I strongly suggest that if this is your first bow, don't order one off the net to save a few bucks. Go to a good shop that will let you try different bows at different draw weights so you can see what you like and what fits you. More important than the type of bow you get, is making sure that bow fits you properly.
If you want us to suggest some bows that are good bargains for the beginner archer, ask and I'm sure you will get some opinions, or do a search, it's a topic that comes up often.
Good luck, and feel free to ask more questions as they arise.
Paul
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I didn't climb to the top of the food chain to eat carrots! (Ron White)
In my opinion, rated speed is completely unimportant.
Most new bows have some draw lenght adjustability built in. Even if it doesn't, if you come close, then you can change it some, by adjusting cable and string lengths.
After you shoot for awhile, you will discover what you prefer. Until then, and it may takes years, just try to avoid any extremes, as in - super short or very low brace heights.
The key is finding a bow shop that knows what they're doing. Great tuning and good shooting advice will do far more for your shooting than any particular bow.
One more perspective; pull a few bows to see what weight you may wish for, talk to people shooting at the range, take a look at some instructive web pages, books by good techs, this forum, and other publications, for neutral opinions.
You will get a sense of the weight & possibly the bow you may wish for, & learn enough to understand some of the lingo. Then you may want to talk to a tech at the company who makes the bow you may be thinking of, to see what they propose for the rest, release, & set-up that may be good for the bow you are thinking about.
They usually do not mind talking to someone who wish to buy their bows.
You may not wish to get a short bow if you plan a finger release etc.
By and large, faster the bow, higher is the price.
The above info you assemble, will help you when you start to balance proshops & prices.
First-time bow purchase
