I am trying to bare-shaft tune the WB delux after noticing a slight nock-high tear with fletching. After several shots with a bare shaft at 6 ft, I have a moderate nock-high tear. I can't move the rest any farther up, and I can't seem to move my string loop to change my nocking point. Can I make slight adjustments to my tiller (tighten the bottom limb) in order to bring the nock point down without any adverse effect to my bow's performance?
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Mighty Mite VFT, Muzzy ZE Rest, 260g Gold Tip XT' s/Feathers, Magnus Stinger 100g, No Peep with a bored peep, King Cobra sight, limbsavers, Cat Whisker string silencers, Vibracheck stabilizer, String loop, Scott release, 29 inch DL, 62 lb, 283 fps.
number one you need touse a fletched arrow to paper tune at 6 feet.
i would say using a fletched arrow will straiten the nock high tear right out.
when you say moderate nock high does moderate mean 1/8" to 1/4"
or does that mean 1/2" to 3/4"
if you have a slight nock high tear with a bare shaft dont worry so much about it and sight in your bow.
if it is a lot nock high you need to move the nocking point down.
my definition of a tuned tiller is both limbs equal off the centerline of the axles where even amounts of force are exerted on the limbs at full draw
if you are using a proper grip the force will be distributed evenly with the exception of bows that are very top heavy, top heavy bows are more susceptable to tiller tuning.
the Bowtech libertyis a very good cantidate for tiller tuning for In some cases I have seen that in order to get a perfect bullet hole in paper requires a low nocking point or set a level nocking point and make adjustments to the tiller to get it shooting right.
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The common mistake people make when attempting to design something completely Idiot proof is to underestimate the ingenuity of complete Idiots.
Either bare shaft tune or paper tune. Don't combine the two. You'll wind up in a padded cell if you keep trying that.
Back up to square one. Set your tiller even on both limbs. Set your rest height to put the arrow in the center of the rest mounting hole. Get a pair of small, smooth jawed needlenose pliers to loosen the top knot in your loop. Jewelers pliers are ideal, and you can get them at any hobby store. Then you can adjust your nocking point.
The only adjustment you need to make to your tiller is to make sure you have tension in each limb matched to your grip style, as BPS noted.
Thanks guys - I guess I have a bad habit of over-tinkering with my bows. What brought me to the bare shaft tune issue was that my broadheads are dead-on with my field points at 20 yds, but when I shoot them at 35 yds, they are dead center (windage) -- but are 3-4" below my field points. When I paper tuned - I had a nock-high tear of about 1/8" (with fletching). When I bare-shaft tuned, the tear became more like 3/8-1/2 inch high. I just like things to be perfect - a never ending battle. I will start from scratch - even tiller, reset the WB to dead center, and level the nock with the rest and go from there.
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Mighty Mite VFT, Muzzy ZE Rest, 260g Gold Tip XT' s/Feathers, Magnus Stinger 100g, No Peep with a bored peep, King Cobra sight, limbsavers, Cat Whisker string silencers, Vibracheck stabilizer, String loop, Scott release, 29 inch DL, 62 lb, 283 fps.
I am trying to bare-shaft tune the WB delux after noticing a slight nock-high tear with fletching. After several shots with a bare shaft at 6 ft, I have a moderate nock-high tear. I can't move the rest any farther up, and I can't seem to move my string loop to change my nocking point. Can I make slight adjustments to my tiller (tighten the bottom limb) in order to bring the nock point down without any adverse effect to my bow's performance?
People will often want to use a monofilament serving on the bowstring when they use a D-loop. The D-loop can then be turned up & down the monofilament serving like a nut on a bolt for tuning.
Any tear at 6 ft will more often than not, be much aggravate from 5-10 yds.
Start tuning with fletching; the direction of the tear is easier to see.
Usually the only time a tiller will be changed from the manual or company instructions is when they say change them: that is their call.
The elevation of an arrow rest is typically designed so the arrow is pushed from the most high-speed section of the bowstring. That should be about the middle of the free bowstring; the more close to an axle the slower the movement. At the axle there is almost no movement: 1/8" distance of elevation on some bowstring, can change some bows speed a few fps.
How much of a difference (between top and bottom tiller measurements) would be considered acceptable? I checked my Patriot today using a bow square and found that the bottom measurement was 1/8th longer than the top. Would that be something to worry about?
ORIGINAL: JeramyK
How much of a difference (between top and bottom tiller measurements) would be considered acceptable? I checked my Patriot today using a bow square and found that the bottom measurement was 1/8th longer than the top. Would that be something to worry about?
You may remember when we got our Patriot 04 SC a couple of months ago because we complained about the speed to Bowtech, & posted the Bowtech letters on this Forum. The speed did not appear to be as advertised.
At that time I called them several times & ask about the set-up because we thought a new Bow should shoot, set-up as they say is should be set-up, & with about the add speed more or less.
One of the things the Tech said is the tiller is correct when both limbs are jacked up all the way. We have it down now to change the 60 lbs limbs to 70s so it cannot be measured & I do not remember the measurement.
We even took their recommendation on things like the release and arrow rest(fall-away), because the first thing we wished to know was, if set up in this way was it worth the money we paid. The verdict is still out ????
The 70 lbs limbs will match the IBO adds.
But to me, a new bow should shoot almost as advertised & set up the way the company says is most right for that bow, otherwise take it back, exchange the bow or the limbs.
Thanks dwassp. I was able to get my tiller corrected. (see my limb bolt post )
I'm actually shooting an 03' Patriot and not the 04'. Until about a month ago I didn't even know what tiller meant. [>:] But thanks to these forums I'm slowly learning the ropes.
Make sure you are not measuring tiller in the conventional way (i.e. to bowstring) on a single cam..on most single cam designs it isn't a proper indicator. You need to tie some fishing line or floss from axle to axle and measure to that..
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Tiller Tuning
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