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Old 07-14-2004, 11:55 AM   #1
 
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Default sharpening broadheads

i have a smith wrench sharpner and still cant get the muzzy blades to shave hair. what am i doing wrong? thanks for all.................mitch
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Old 07-14-2004, 11:59 AM   #2
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Default RE: sharpening broadheads

I use a fine grit wet/dry paper to sharpen the blades then I strop them on a piece of leather.

It's tededice (sp) but it gets them scary sharp.

I also do the above to the trocar tips.
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Old 07-15-2004, 06:35 AM   #3
 
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Default RE: sharpening broadheads

Where do you get find grit wet dry paper? Leather? Any tips for getting the right angle?
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Rest- Whisker Biscuit (B2)
Sights- CAP Foxfire SP
Quiver- Alpine Soft Lock
Arrows- Gold Tip XT 7595's 29"
Broadhead- 100gr. SlickTricks
Release- Scott Little Goose
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Old 07-15-2004, 06:52 AM   #4
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Default RE: sharpening broadheads

Sharpening most three bladed replacable heads is not an easy thing to do. I can get the four bladed muzzy scary sharp, but not the three.

Blades such as Wensels, Snuffers, Montec, etc, with a cut to the tip are much easier to sharpen. Personally, I moved to InnerLoc from Muzzy mainly because they have the same retention system, but their replaceable blades are much sharper.
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Old 07-15-2004, 07:37 AM   #5
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Default RE: sharpening broadheads

Ausie, how fine grit wise do you go on the wet/dry paper before moving to leather?
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Old 07-15-2004, 10:57 AM   #6
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Default RE: sharpening broadheads

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Where do you get fine grit wet dry paper?Leather?
Lowes, Home Depot, Army Navy, any paint store.

Leather from an old boot.

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how fine grit wise do you go on the wet/dry paper before moving to leather?
RB.
I get as fine as I can find usually around a 2400 grit.

I start with a 1600 grit then move to the 2400 grit (if the head has been shot into the block a few times or into the dirt after shooting an animal
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Old 07-15-2004, 12:00 PM   #7
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Default RE: sharpening broadheads

Ausie-guy,

This is probably a stupid question, but are these blades that you have previously shot into/at deer? If so how many times can you continue to shoot these blades before replacing them?

I have noticed that blades that are 1-3 years old seem to just naturally dull, whether from oxidation, or taking in and out of a quiver. Do you routinely sharpen these blades, or are they still alright? I guess what I am trying to say is, how sharp is sharp enough?
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Old 07-15-2004, 12:17 PM   #8
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Default RE: sharpening broadheads

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This is probably a stupid question, but are these blades that you have previously shot into/at deer? If so how many times can you continue to shoot these blades before replacing them?
If the blades are still ok after I have shot deer, pigs or what ever I sharpen them usually about 3 or 4 times then get new blades. If the blades have nicks and gouges in them I trash them for new blades.

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I have noticed that blades that are 1-3 years old seem to just naturally dull, whether from oxidation, or taking in and out of a quiver. Do you routinely sharpen these blades, or are they still alright?
I check for blade sharpness before I go hunting if they are new blades or old blades that have not been shot that are just dull then a quick strop on leather will usually bring the razor edge back if not then a few swipes on either side with 2400 grit then strop them.

I take the blades off the head to sharpen them.

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I guess what I am trying to say is, how sharp is sharp enough?
If they shave hair then IMO they are sharp enough
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Old 07-15-2004, 12:50 PM   #9
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Default RE: sharpening broadheads

I can find 1500 grit easy enough. Went to a body shop client hoping they would have a finer grit, 1500 was their top

After visiting several places, found some 2000 grit. Would love to get some 2400 grit, will have to keep my eyes open for it when I'm out of town...

I'm gearing up for a post when I'm done, but let's just say my Rocket blades don't know what's hit them
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Old 07-15-2004, 12:56 PM   #10
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Default RE: sharpening broadheads

If you really want to polish those edges, put some red jewelers rouge on the leather before stropping. Get it at hardware and hobby stores, or some auto parts stores have it. It's dry polishing compound in stick form. Usually used on buffing wheels.
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