I have one.
Takes some real fooling around to get the right settings with helical clamps. IME, the "pre-set" on each end of the jig for right helical, and left helical are quite a ways off (at least for carbons) But I must note mine is a few years old (5, I think) and it's possible they may have changed something, so experiment on one arrow 'til you get it right. Then I suggest leaving the damn thing alone!
Looking at mine right now..set for Right helical on shafts similar in diameter to Easton A/C/C 3-60s (or most IC type carbons) the setting on the nock end is at the "S" (straight) position, and when I turn around the point end of the jig to face me the point end setting is about 1/8" to the right of the "R" setting.
For Left helical or straight you will have to experiment.
As for the nock receivers, make sure that the reciever end closest to you is the one with 4 dimples around it's circumference. The large single dimple is to denote the cock feather/vane. So you start off fletching with the cock feather dimple facing you (when looking down from the top) for all 6 arrows.
If you pull the nock receivers out you will notice the other end of the receiver has 3 dimples..this denotes 3 feather fletch. If you were to reverse them (i.e. putting the side with 4 dimples into the frame of the jig) that would the correct spacing for 4 feather fletch.
So unless you intend to 4 fletch, make sure that the 3 dimple side is into the frame of the jig and the 4 dimple side is visible.
Some other tips
1) I find it works best when you slide in the nock end of the clamp first all the way to the base of the shaft making sure the clamp is seated in that narrow groove correctly, then allow the point end of the clamp to come down and seat the front of the fletch.
2) When you remove the clamps and go to the next feather/vane MAKE SURE the arrow shaft is all the way seated into the receiver. I find when pulling the clamp off it tends to pull the nock end slightly out of the receiver and if you do not notice your next fletch will be sitting 1/2"further up the shaft than the last one you did.
3) If you are using feathers and standard fletch-tite like glue, after you place the clamp and seat it properly, giive it a 10 second count, and then remove the clamp very carefully and blow on the base of the feather back and forth for a second or two. Since fletch-tite like glues (Fletch-Tite, Bond-Tite, Flex-bond, Saunders NPV, etc) are air-curing glues this little move actually makes them dry a couple of minutes quicker without affecting the integrity of the bond. (this actually is a tip for anyone who uses that type of glue regardless of fletcher/style of fletch)
Hope that helps!
Jo Jan Fletcher ????
