Fine tuning draw length?

[PABowhntr]

How do/how did some of you folks go about fine tuning your draw length? The reason I ask is because after trying to force myself to shoot 30 inch draw length bows with a string loop for the last year I had a breath of fresh air when I actually went back to shooting a 31 incher. I have been playing with the draw stop peg and modules on a Pro40 and found what I consider to be a "sweet spot" for my setup and accuracy. My form is not what I would consider totally "acceptable" but that may have something to do with where I am anchoring at the moment....yet my accuracy levels have improved exponentially since making the switch.

I am sure there are some folks that are likely to point out the longer axle to axle length of the bow in question. I do agree that may have something to do with it though my accuracy was suffering when I had a 30 inch draw setting on that bow as well.

Back to the question at hand. How do some of you folks fine tune your draw length? Do you go by what looks like proper shooting form or by accuracy levels?

[Len in Maryland]

Frank:

Why don't you stop down some day and we can completely analyze your situation and develop several 'solutions'. Draw length is something that, as I'm sure you're well aware, can't be taken lightly. There are more considerations that have to be made than just accuracy when talking about form.

One question I always ask of my customers is "What are your main reasons for shooting a bow?" Based on how they answer determines somewhat how I set them up.

[JeffB]

Yup.proper draw length is sooooo critical. It can make an "unshootable" bow into the best shooting bow you have ever owned.

I get close with the purchase itself...i.e I get whatever module/cam gets me right around 29" AMO. E.g. on a Mathews I always buy a 28.5" cam as Mathews always run 1/2 to 5/8" long AMO due to where they measure draw length from (front of riser). Then if it's a cam where I really don't want to make adjustments to the cable and string (i.e single-cam), I try several different releases, and also fiddle with my loop length 'til I narrow it down. On a draw stop bow like the BowTech singles, I use that to my advantage as well.

If it's a dual cam or a hybrid, I'' ll make some adjustments to the cables/string as neccessary, but I still prefer not to do that so that the cam/s remain in the optimum position.

[Straightarrow]

I fiddled with my draw length for many years. It wasn't until I fiddled more with my form, that I made improvements. It took me a long time to finally realize that my bow shoulder had to be put into a relaxed bone-to-bone position. Once I hit that position, my steadiness improved greatly. After I got that part right, I had a person stand behind my while I drew, and had them check my release arm alignment. I wanted the upper arm to be in perfect alignment with the arrow and I adjusted it, until I obtained that position.

I have a 72.5" reach and for years I floated around 29" on drawlength. After getting my bow shoulder completely relaxed and release arm into correct position, I have settled at 28.25" (without loop, and low wrist) . When using a very short Catfish Loop and a release with a loop-head, I've ended up at 28". This is shorter than anyone has ever measured me at. I don't think anyone can figure out their ideal drawlength, until they get their form into ideal position. In my opinion, it's worthwhile for anyone to pay a pro to help out in this area. This would be money far better spent than any you could put towards new bows or accessories.

[JeffB]

It took me a long time to finally realize that my bow shoulder had to be put into a relaxed bone-to-bone position

Absolutely. Same boat. Once I started making sure my bow shoulder was "down" and pushed toward the target (allowing for bone to bone contact) it relaxed my entire upper body and made for a much more stable shooting platform and I became much more consistent (and many "tuning" issues disappeared)

Alot of people roll that shoulder high and/or out like I did (and don't realize it), and that really messes with you as it's NOT consistent for more than a few arrows at a time. Going too short or too long on draw length can adversely affect that proper shoulder position.

I make it a point now in my shot routine to mentally tell myself and physically push that bow arm shoulder down at the start of the draw...if you try to do so after you have started the draw or when you reach full draw it loads up the bow with quite a bit of torque, and you will have rights and lefts.

[Straightarrow]

Jeff,

Sounds like we go through a similar pre-shot routine.

As an added note. I concentrate on keeping my bow arm straight. It's not forceably locked, but it is also not purposely bent. A bent arm will not only be more difficult to keep bent the same amount on each shot, but will create tension in your arm muscles. That is not good for consistancy.

[JeffB]

Again, I agree wholeheartedly re: the bow arm. The technique is very similar to what some traditional shooters use. By fully extending (but NOT locking) the bow arm, and pushing the shoulder down, you eliminate a HUGE number of variables that can mess up your shot"¦it"™s consistent every time.

In the past two months I"™ve gone to a "œback to basics"� approach where I actually have a shot routine and mental checklist for each and every thing I do. It"™s really helped squash the bout of target panic that has nearly made me give up archery. For those interested here is what I do.

1) Take my slightly open stance (right foot slightly forward of the left..I'm a righty) wide enough to where I"™m stable without feeling like I would lean backwards or forwards, and then concentrate on the spot I want to aim at (just with my eyes, not with the pin of the sight, it"™s mostly a mental reminder that "œthis is the exact spot I want to hit"�)

2) Slide my hand "œup"� into the very top of the grip making sure I do not have too much or not enough "œthumb"� into the bow (center of grip down the meaty section at the base of the thumb). I also find it helps if I extend my thumb directly upwards forming a "œY"� of sorts, however I am relaxed doing so and not imparting any undue pressure. This keeps me from canting the bow as I set up the shot. As I get to full draw my fingers are relaxed completely and thumb naturally relaxes a tad as I concentrate on the other aspects of the shot, however it does still extend upward some.

3) Clip the release on, extend the bow arm and push my shoulder down ( I should note that I use a release that has a high tension setting but a crisp trigger with no travel whatsoever)

4) Raise the bow with the shoulder down and arm extended while initiating the draw with my back muscles

5) Complete the draw and "œsettle in"� to my anchor/peep (also making sure my grip is still relaxed), making sure I am not anchoring "œtoo hard"� and let my trigger finger lay on the trigger with no tension in that finger. My other release hand fingers are also completely relaxed.

6) Make sure that at no time do I let up on the tension in the entire shot. I want to be relaxed but not lose any tension"¦ even as I anchor I am maintaining tension.

7) Acquire the spot, and let my entire upper body to get the pin go to the general area NOT my bow arm, my whole torso will move. This is quite easy and natural if your bow arm/shoulder is correct but is frustrating if not.

8) As the pin starts floating in the general area, I mentally start the backtension/release hand elbow moving and immediately start drilling my eyes on that spot I want to hit..everything else is a blur.

If I do everything correctly, the bow goes off as a surprise yet I maintain my mental and physical follow through. I can also if needed (like in a hunting situation, "push" the shot sequence a bit to fire on command and still maintain accuracy, but I try to avoid that in practice).When I do miss, I go back and analyze things and usually realize I missed/skipped a "œstep"�. While it sounds complicated, all of this is done in a matter of seconds.

One other key thing I"™ve been doing that I had stopped doing for a few years that Ausie (Russ) reminded me to start up again was a simple stretch/warm-up of the muscles. It takes about a minute or two, and really helps. It"™s something you can also do in the morning before heading out the door to hunt or even on stand every half-hour or so when there is nothing moving around you. If I just start going out to fling some arrows, I find that my first several shots are poor as my muscles are trying to "œremember"� what"™ they are supposed to be doing.

This whole warm-up and shot routine and concentrating on just shooting a few good arrows (sometimes I"™ll only shot 2 or 3 arrows total and then call it quits) has really brought me back to a level of good shooting I haven"™t had in several years. I walked out on my deck last night, shot 2 arrows from 30 and drilled the exact spot both times. Walked out to 40 yards in the yard and also drilled the exact spot I was aiming at. Smiled and went inside.[8D]

[PABowhntr]

Thanks for the comments and suggestions folks. I will take them to heart. I am always will to learn and experiment as it can only lead to better shooting and more personal satisfaction.