I was using field points to site in my bow and practice and it is dead on. I tried test shooting a few mechanical jackhammer sst and my arrows were off 6 left and 8 high. I alined the blades and fletching and had the same result. When I put the field points back on I was back in the bull. Is this problem with the arrow shaft size, the broad head or what?
First, let's start simple. The broadhead and field tips are the same weight, correct? A heavier/lighter head doesn't just affect flight vertically, but horizontally as well due to different effective spines. I ask, because a difference of 25G in the head gives me similar results as yours.
Are the broadheads grouping consistently? If so, it points to a tuning problem. I'd say try paper tuning with field tips since it works great for me, but there are different opinions on the board regarding the value of a paper tune.
Also, what type of fletching are you using and how much helical do you have?
but there are different opinions on the board regarding the value of a paper tune
Got that right, but I still see value in it. To me an arrow coming off the bow straight is extemely important. There will be lees tendoncy for the arrow to have to correct down range. But I will only paper tune up to ten feet. After that the arrow (I'm talking with fletchings) will start to correct.
Only other thing I can add is to make sure you are shooting with the exact same form as the field tips. There is sometimes a mental factor involved when shooting a different setup.
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"I do not Hunt animals to Kill them. I kill animals because I Hunt." Roger Rothhaar
Probably the most difficult problem to rectify is proper nock/shaft/insert/point alignment. A simple spin of the arrow on a spin tester can help you determine whether or not everything is relatively in line. If not then you will need to check each component...one arrow at a time to see where the problem lies.
Well heres what I know. The tips are the same grain. The arrows are brand new xx75 w/ 5" vanes. Last year my bow shot perfect but I wanted more poundage so I cranked it up from 56 to 62. I am afraid that it may have made me need stiffer arrows.
It may not necessitate a stiffer arrow if you're still in the recommended spine range. Any tweaking of the poundage, tiller, or just about anything will affect arrow flight. Try a good paper tune and move your center shot or nock height accordingly.......or, you could try a slightly lighter tip (within 25 grains) and see if that puts you on spot.
My first procedure would be a paper tune though. I've had luck tuning two different spines using the same tip weight by changing nock position and centershot alone. Both setups put fixed blade broadheads and field tips on the same spot out to 60 yards (farthest I can shoot out back). I know it's not the most popular method, but it was the most quantitative way I found to adjust my bow.
BTW..........are the broadheads grouping as good as your field tips now? I assume they are and that the point of impact is just "6 right and 8 high".
Thanks for the help. Here is my delima though. I tried paper tuning with field points at 10 feet and I kept having a 1 inch tear to the left (shooting left handed). My bow was never in paper tune with field points. I cannot seem to get it into perfect tune so I am doubtful that I can tune it with broad heads. Does a tear to the left indicate that the arrow will go left?
I tried paper tuning with field points at 10 feet and I kept having a 1 inch tear to the left (shooting left handed).
I would say that here is where you problem is. 1 inch tear is way too much. If you have never paper tuned before, you may want to get help at a dealer. If not go to easton arrow site and download the tuning manuel. It will get you where you need to be. Also, when you are paper tuning, make absolutely sure that you are not torquing the bow at all, and check for any clearence problems first.
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"I do not Hunt animals to Kill them. I kill animals because I Hunt." Roger Rothhaar
indicates a week arrow , try lowering the poundage and see what happens , hopefully your arrows "with broadheads" will track to the right and hit close to you feild tips .
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Wear a full harness and tie yourself to your tree !
Take a kid hunting or fishing .
Nocks , the most overlooked component .
Start out close to the target....as in 4 feet or less. What may be happening is that the oscillation of the arrow has completed one half of a cycle and your adjustments play into making it more extreme. If this still results in a left tear, (assuming you're right handed) then it could be that your draw length is too long resulting in a consistent pull. It could also be fletching contact.
Once you've achieved a bullet from less than 4 feet, step back to 6 feet and repeat, but make finer adjustments. Finally, tune from 10 feet, BUT make sure your adjustments are very, very minor. If you make it to this point, it becomes very easy for your decisions to be corrupted by other variables. In scientific terms, you lose your experiment's control.
Also, shoot 3 or 4 arrows before making an adjustment. It's very easy start going the wrong direction with your adjustments based on a torqued shot. You'll know in your head when you've had a good release - go with your instincts and count only those shots towards your adjustment decision.
The process can be touchy, and it does require patience, but the ability to do it in my basement makes the environment consistent and comfortable - a must when you start making hairline adjustments. It'll pay off when you don't have to sight in for broadheads!
broadheads and arrow trouble
