Arthur, I've been listening to you talk about adjusting the tiller for over 2 years now. I never really felt like I needed to do it, as I was satisfied with my shooting.
Well, tonight I shot a few rounds and then decided I would check my tiller. I put the pin on the target and slowly drew, and the thing was WAY off, pulling extremely low. I then started tinkering with it until I felt I had it pretty close.
I then started shooting and could not believe what I was seeing!!! I was shooting better than I have in years, and I just picked up my bow a couple weeks ago after 2 months off!!! It was the best feeling!!! My bow was holding ROCK solid on the dot, very little movement!!!! My groups were unbelievable. All 4 arrows touching at 20yds and I haven't even grouped tuned this thing yet!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I am not new to bow hunting, but I am new to all this tech stuff and thanks to guys like you on this board I am shooting better than ever before!!!
For those of you that haven't tried tiller adjusting, DO IT, you won't believe how the bow just shoots itself.
I also noticed the bow had a lot less vibration, much quiter, less conducive to torque and on and on.
Once again, thanks.
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" If he smells you its over. If he gets in your wind stream its over, If he smells where you walked, he probably aint coming back... Your talking about an animal that can smell a fingerprint. Any amount over 0% is to much." Dan Infalt
You place your pin on the target and slowly draw and anchor. Notice if your bow/pin pulls high or low when you draw. If it pulls low, either take poundage from the bottom limb or add to the top. If it pulls high, do the opposite.
Once you feel like you have it close, you will not believe how much better you will shoot.
Hope this helps. Maybe Arthur will show up with better instructions.
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" If he smells you its over. If he gets in your wind stream its over, If he smells where you walked, he probably aint coming back... Your talking about an animal that can smell a fingerprint. Any amount over 0% is to much." Dan Infalt
Yep. That's kind of an easy way to do it. Probably much better for the masses.
The way I was taught to tiller tune was to mark your limb bolts with tiller dead even.
Then shoot a 3 arrow group. Mark group size
Then adjust top limb one 1/4 turn tight.adjust nock point back. shoot group. mark group size
Then 1/2 turn tight. adjust nock point. shoot group. mark group size
3/4 turn. nock.shoot.mark
full turn.nock. shoot. mark.
then back to zero.
Bottom limb tight. 1/4 turn.then 1/2. then 3/4, then full turn.
Find where you grouped tightest. Ignoring any goofy arrows. It's not an easy task for most as it requires VERY consistent form. It's a PITA really [:'(]
I find tiller tuning works best for dual cams, and hybrids to a lesser extent. I've never seen much benefit with a single cam unless the bow had horribly matched limbs (and basically that is what tiller tuning does..fine tunes limb deflection at full draw, and also compensates for how the individual puts pressure on the bow grip).
I'll give Arthur's method a shot w/ my P40 DC and see what happens.
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Shoot what you like and have confidence in - don't get wrapped up in popularity contests
I guess I should add that I am now shooting cam & 1/2. Maybe I've never felt I needed it b/c I was shooting solo cam.
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" If he smells you its over. If he gets in your wind stream its over, If he smells where you walked, he probably aint coming back... Your talking about an animal that can smell a fingerprint. Any amount over 0% is to much." Dan Infalt
Double Creek,now you have gone and done it.Arthur's head is going to be as big as his arms are long.
Seriously,I would be curious to see where the limbs balanced out for you.I have found that a quarter to half turn more in, on the bottom limb will usually put you about as good as you can get it.Is this close to what it turned out for you?
alright guys I'm checkin it out right now. just wondering is measuring the precise distance from the limb to the strings accurate? Thanks Double Creek for the post.
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The Rebellion's "Oklahoma Twister of Words"...
This is a good post, I think I'll save it in my draft's and I'll give it a go tommorrow after I get home from turkey hunting . Thank's guy's I'm sure this advice will come in handy in the future to myself and many other's.
Guy's i just tried out my bow for tiller ,when i draw back it stay's firmly dead straight ,so i measured it and I found that it might be 1/8 inch shorter on the bottom but I don't notice the difference when drawing as you said.
I've used tiller tuning for two things. First, to change grip pressure, which is similar to what Double Creek did. Second, to adjust vertical tears in paper, without touching the rest of the string nock. I've also heard that you can tiller tune a single cam for best nock travel. Through a combination of changing nock heights and tiller, supposedly you can find the "sweet spot" for nock travel and get better groups. This might be similar to what JeffB what referring to, however, I've never tried it. It does make sense that it would work.
ArthurP, you are the man!!!
